Whereas the celebs of the present for the celebrations of the Royal Oak’s Fiftieth anniversary have been, indisputably, the brand new Further-Skinny 16202 and the Openworked 16204, Audemars Piguet received’t solely have a look at the Jumbo fashions. In truth, in the middle of 2022, it’s the whole everlasting Royal Oak assortment that will probably be up to date. Be reassured, we’re speaking small touches to make these fashions barely extra refined, or mechanically extra fashionable. The design invented by Genta in 1972 remains to be properly alive and virtually intact. First regarding the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm and Selfwinding Chronographs 38mm & 41mm, the evolutions will probably be specializing in particulars from the case and bracelet, and dial design/colors. And, a little bit spoiler, these evolutions may also concern the Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm and 34mm within the second half of 2022. However let’s take a look at this new assortment, to grasp what has modified.
The 2022 Updates on the Royal Oak Assortment
Let’s get straight to the purpose. We’re not right here taking a look at an entire overhaul of the Royal Oak. Don’t anticipate an entire redesign, or completely new fashions. The gathering that’s launched by Audemars Piguet within the body of the 50 years of the Royal Oak is about delicate, minimal updates with out altering the unique idea of the RO assortment. It’s nonetheless a sports activities watch with an built-in bracelet, it nonetheless options an octagonal bezel with 8 screws, it nonetheless is a correct luxurious watch, it nonetheless includes a tapisserie sample on the dial. And the best way the gathering is articulated, perceive Selfwinding time-and-date watches in 34mm, 37mm and 41mm, in addition to two Selfwinding Chronographs in 38mm and 41mm, hasn’t been touched both. Those that have been anticipating the Royal Oak to vary will probably be disillusioned. These, and they’re many, who have been wanting ahead to the Royal Oak to stay true to its origins will probably be happy.
So, what has modified in 2022? And this goes for all three Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm and Chronographs 38mm and 41mm we’re taking a look at right now, however will probably be the identical for the 34mm and 41mm later this 12 months. As for the case, it’s concerning the ending and the best way the case is formed. Whereas retaining the identical proportions as earlier than, these new Royal Oak references now have enlarged polished bevels adorning the highest and the underside of the case, enhancing the distinction and play of sunshine with the brushed surfaces. Additionally, the screwed caseback has been barely extra built-in into the case center to take a seat extra comfortably on the wrist.
One other evolution considerations the transition between case and bracelet and the best way the entire tapers to the clasp. Certainly, to intensify the slenderness of the case and so as to add a little bit of refinement, the built-in bracelet’s first 4 hyperlinks are actually trapezoid in form and now not parallel. This extra pronounced lower in thickness brings ahead the bracelet’s taper for extra visible enchantment. Moreover, the hyperlinks are thinner all through the bracelet, and due to this fact lighter, enhancing the consolation on the wrist – this evolution of the design was really launched discreetly on Royal Oak fashions in gold a number of years in the past, however now finds its manner into the entire assortment together with metal and titanium fashions.
The second replace considerations the dials. Audemars Piguet provides delicate touches, with out drastically altering the general thought of the tapisserie sample, which has been related to the Royal Oak since its very creation. The concept with the 2022 replace of the Royal Oak Selfwinding fashions is to deliver coherence. Design-wise, the hour markers and arms retain the identical aesthetics as earlier than, but the dimensions has been harmonized throughout the entire assortment, no matter diameter and materials. In the identical vein, the proportions of the hour markers of the brand new selfwinding chronographs and selfwinding time-and-date timepieces have been standardized based on the totally different diameters.
Trying on the dial into extra particulars, there’s a brand new AUDEMARS PIGUET signature, changing the utilized AP monogram and printed textual content utilized in previous collections. Now, the model is utilizing the identical embossed signature as used on Code 11.59. Fabricated from skinny layers of 24-carat gold, the signature is achieved by means of a chemical course of akin to 3D printing often called galvanic progress. Every letter is related with hyperlinks roughly the dimensions of a hair and positioned on the dial by hand. Additionally, all watches now have tone-on-tone date wheels.
Lastly, if the tapisserie sample has been retained and exhibits the identical dimension as earlier than – and that is particular to the 37mm time-and-date mannequin – the flat exterior zone on which the minute monitor was printed has now been eliminated and the monitor is now instantly printed on the guilloché dial, similar to on Jumbo fashions. The 2 38mm and 41mm Selfwinding chronographs retain a clean exterior scale, which is used as a precision second’s monitor.
The comeback of the BLEU NUIT, NUAGE 50 Dial
One of many signature parts of the Royal Oak, when it was launched in 1972, was its dial. Absolutely, it needed to do with the Petite Tapisserie sample, however not solely. One of many emblematic parts was the color, the so-called Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 dial (evening blue, cloud 50). This hue was initially developed by Geneva-based dial maker Stern Frères. The blue color was obtained by immersing every dial in a galvanic tub – with exact timing for the tub in any other case the color may vary from purple to black. A skinny layer of varnish blended with a number of drops of black color (n° 50) was then utilized onto the dial to guard it. Identified to be comparatively unstable, this might lead to classic fashions now having darkish blue, gray and even tropical dials. At present, the color is obtained by means of a contemporary and steady course of, because of PVD (Bodily Vapor Deposition). This color is now again on all current references, whether or not in chrome steel or gold fashions.
Extra colors are, after all, out there, akin to silver, gray, the extremely cool gentle blue you’ll be able to see on the 37mm Selfwinding mannequin, black or perhaps a new khaki inexperienced that’s used on the gold 41mm chronograph photographed on this article. All fashions are exhibiting the so-called Grande Tapisserie sample. First supplied in 1998, it adjustments the dimensions of the truncated pyramids, which grew to become twice as massive, thus decreasing the variety of pyramids from roughly 700 to 380 on a 39mm Royal Oak Jumbo dial. The motif was again then so profitable that it utterly changed the Petite Tapisserie, till its comeback in 2012 with the up to date 15202. This Grande Tapisserie is now supplied on all 34, 37, 38, and 41mm Selfwinding Royal Oak fashions (chrono or time-and-date).
The brand new Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm 15550
First in line for the 2022 Royal Oak assortment is an replace of the 37mm computerized model. Identified till now because the reference 15450, this mannequin is up to date this 12 months with the evolutions defined above – newly formed case and bracelet, up to date dial – but in addition obtained model new mechanics. Till now, the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm was powered by the Calibre 3120 (which has been the driving pressure behind the 15300 and 15400, changed with the 41mm 15500).
The brand new reference Royal Oak 15550 is now geared up with the calibre 5900, a motion with a thinner profile (3.9mm vs 4.26mm) and the next frequency of 4Hz. Regardless of the elevated frequency, the ability reserve has been retained to a fairly strong 60 hours. The motion, seen by means of the caseback, is adorned with the “50 Years” rotor, one thing unique to the 2022 manufacturing.
Because of this up to date motion and to the brand new caseback structure, the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm 15550 can also be pretty thinner than the previous mannequin, now measuring 8.9mm in peak versus 9.8mm, whereas retaining its 37mm diameter and the identical 50m water-resistance with a screw-locked crown. There are totally different variations of the 15550 offered. 4 of them are often called reference 15550ST fabricated from chrome steel, both with a silver, darkish blue (bleu nuage), gray or gentle blue dial. As well as, there’s additionally the 15550SR, a silver dial model housed in a two-tone, metal and pink gold case.
Fast info: 37mm x 8.9mm – metal or two-tone case – 50m water-resistance – screw-locked crown, sapphire crystal entrance and caseback – Grande Tapisserie dial with luminous arms and markers – calibre 5900, computerized, 4Hz, 60h energy reserve, time and date – built-in bracelet with folding clasp – ref. 15550ST in metal, 15550SR in two-tone – EUR 23,300 in metal, EUR 28,700 in two-tone
The brand new Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38mm 26715
Audemars Piguet makes use of the Fiftieth-anniversary assortment to replace its most compact Royal Oak chronograph, the Selfwinding 38mm. Identified till now because the reference 26315, it now turns into the reference 26715. No new motion right here, nonetheless, the replace being largely centered on the habillage and the dials.
As such, the diameter stays at 38mm and the peak of the case remains to be fairly affordable sized at 11mm. If the case advantages from the updates on the bevels and on the transition case/bracelet, the general look stays aware of the identical screw-locked crown and chronograph pushers. Water-resistance remains to be rated at 50 metres. Contained in the case, we discover the calibre 2385, which is an computerized column-wheel built-in motion based mostly on the structure of the Frédéric Piguet 1185. On this mannequin, the caseback is strong steel.
The Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38mm 26715 is launched in 5 totally different editions. Two fashions (26715ST) are fabricated from metal with both a darkish blue or a gray dial. One other metal mannequin is offered with a light-weight blue dial and diamonds on the bezel. Lastly, two pink gold fashions (26715OR) are supplied, both with a darkish blue dial or a silver dial with a diamond-set bezel.
Fast info: 38mm x 11mm – metal or pink gold case – 50m water-resistance – screw-locked crown and pushers, sapphire crystal dial facet – Grande Tapisserie dial with luminous arms and markers – calibre 2385, computerized chronograph, 3Hz, 40h energy reserve, time, chrono and date – built-in bracelet with folding clasp – ref. 26715ST in metal, 26715OR in pink gold – EUR 31,500 in metal, EUR 62,500 in gold
The brand new Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm 26240
Following the introduction of the in-house calibre 4401 on the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm in gold fashions final 12 months, the model now introduces the brand new reference 26240, which takes on the bottom of 2021 but with the evolutions talked about above, and with chrome steel editions additionally receiving this new calibre. As such, this new mannequin replaces the older reference 26331 with Piguet-based motion.
Offered in metal or in rose gold, all with tone-on-tone dials – no contrasting sub-dials on this new assortment – the reference 26240 is extraordinarily near the 26239OR offered in 2021. It nonetheless makes use of the up to date chamfers and redesigned bracelet, in addition to the brand new 3D brand on the dial. The case right here measures 41mm in diameter for a peak of 12.4mm, with screw-locked crown and pushers, sapphire crystals on each side and a 50m water-resistance.
The primary replace considerations after all the motion, used for the primary time in a metal Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm. The Calibre 4401 relies on the motion that was first offered in Code 11.59 in 2019. You’ll be able to uncover this motion in a devoted, in-depth article right here. What’s essential is that we’re speaking a couple of fashionable, in-house, built-in flyback chronograph with column-wheel and vertical clutch. Its refined design and ornament may be seen by means of the caseback, with the 2022-only anniversary oscillating weight.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm 26240 is launched in 11 editions in whole. 4 variations (26240ST) are made in chrome steel with a darkish blue, black, silver or khaki inexperienced dial. Subsequent are the 7 watches below the reference 26240OR with pink gold case. 4 of them have a strong gold bracelet, both with a blue, black, silver or khaki inexperienced dial. 3 are worn on an alligator strap, with a blue, black or khaki inexperienced dial.
Fast info: 41mm x 12.4mm – metal or pink gold case – 50m water-resistance – screw-locked crown and pushers, sapphire crystal dial entrance and caseback – Grande Tapisserie dial with luminous arms and markers – calibre 4401, computerized in-house chronograph, 4Hz, 70h energy reserve, time, chrono and date – built-in bracelet with folding clasp or alligator strap – ref. 26240ST in metal, 26240OR in pink gold – EUR 32,800 in metal, EUR 69,990 in gold on bracelet, EUR 48,500 in gold on strap
For extra particulars, please go to www.audemarspiguet.com.