4 stand-out artisanal watchmakers we have seen at Geneva Watch Week

As advocates of the entire mechanical watchmaking trade, sharing the fervour for watches every day, even we generally uncover actually fascinating new folks, manufacturers and watches. We’ve all the time had a devotion to bringing you the perfect within the enterprise, and this consists of offering a podium to the smallest of the small. We’re madly obsessed with folks dedicating their whole life to painstakingly creating what they imagine is the very best watch. And in true artisanal watchmaking, which means by hand, on their own or with a really small group, and with large quantities of persistence. Through the current Geneva Watch Week, we obtained up shut with 4 such watches by small impartial makers, usually working solo. Some acquainted faces, and a few totally new, however all of them equally fascinating and astounding to behold.

Earlier this yr revealed three Sunday tales (Half 1, Half 2, Half 3) the place we listed among the greatest impartial watchmakers outdoors of Switzerland. In a way, at this time’s checklist is considerably of an encore to these three articles. True, three of the 4 are based mostly in Switzerland, which stays the center of the trade in spite of everything, however that doesn’t essentially imply the maker is native Swiss.

We begin our journey in Switzerland, with one native-born Swiss watchmaker and one with Japanese roots. We rapidly leap the border into Germany for a well-known face earlier than rounding off the quartet with a French watchmaker residing in Switzerland. We gained’t go into too many particulars as of now as we’ll very probably cowl each in a stand-alone article quickly as a result of we positively really feel they deserve our unbridled consideration. With that in thoughts, let’s get into issues, lets?

Notice from the editor: Do bear in mind that a few of these watches had been prototypes, or accomplished simply moments earlier than the beginning of the truthful week. So in some you would possibly discover small imperfections upon nearer inspection.

Philippe Narbel and his Narbel & Co Roots watch

We begin issues off with a newcomer to the impartial watchmaking scene, however one to absolutely hold in your radar. Philippe Narbel is a particularly humble man who began out as a jewelry maker earlier than switching to watchmaking. Following the profession change, he honed his talent working for Audemars Piguet. Subsequent to his newly based Narbel & Co watchmaking atelier, he additionally owns and runs Manufactor SA, an organization that makes a speciality of ending methods.

The Roots watch is the primary creation beneath his personal identify, Narbel & Co and is a stunner within the steel. The TV-screen formed case instantly grabs your consideration but it surely’s all of the minute little particulars upon nearer inspection that actually make this a stand-out piece. The German Silver dial is completed with a grey-black PVD coating. The sterling silver sq. within the centre has a sample which is the results of a mistake Philippe Narbel made in his jewellery-making days. It’s distinctive and strange, but blends in completely with the remainder of the watch. Or the sculpted indices that arch down from the sloping fringe of the dial.

And turning the watch over reveals but extra of this dedication to element. Right here can be the place you can see the one identification of its maker, engraved into the bridge of the motion. What you see here’s a closely reworked and upgraded Peseux 7001 handbook wound calibre. The motion is sort of unrecognizable and is transformed right into a case-matching TV-screen form. Once more, the small print are merely breathtaking, with frosted finishes, engravings and hand-applied anglage. The whole motion is framed by a sloping flange replicating the sloping outer perimeter of the dial.

If we’re speaking about revelations in watchmaking, to me, this is likely to be top-of-the-line ones I’ll get to witness this yr. The Narbel & Co Roots watch is an usually much-needed horological breath of contemporary air coming from one of many nicest guys you’ll ever meet. Philippe Narbel isn’t in it for the identify and fame, however somewhat for the deeply-rooted ardour he feels and the creation of friendships and communities. He’s absolutely one to observe.

For extra data, please go to Narbel&Co.com (beneath development on the time of writing) or his Instagram account.

Fast Details – 40mm x 40mm x 10mm top – chrome steel or rose gold case – TV-screen form – sapphire crystal back and front – grey-black PVD coated German Silver dial with sculpted indices and ornamental sterling silver centre panel – skeletonized hour and minute palms – Peseux 7001 motion, reconstructed and completed in-house – handbook winding – hand-applied frosting, anglage, perlage, engravings – 21,600vph – 42h energy reserve – bespoke strap made per consumer’s specs – CHF 44,000 (in metal) or CHF 57,000 (in gold)

Yosuke Sekiguchi and the Primevère watch

The story of Japanese-born Yosuke Sekiguchi is exceptional, to say the least. Born in Isesaki, Japan, Yosuke Sekiguchi had a childhood dream of being an expert watchmaker, which introduced him to France and in the end Switzerland. Following his research in watchmaking, he labored for motion specialists La Joux-Perret and at high-end impartial Christophe Claret. Throughout his years within the trade, he additionally restored a historic Jules Jürgensen pocket watch motion from 1871 (a LeCoultre ébauche) and transformed it to a wristwatch. To at the present time, that very watch could be discovered gracing Yosuke’s wrist.

This classic ébauche would function the inspiration wanted for him to interrupt out on his personal in January of 2020. Not the perfect timing I’d say, however that hasn’t deterred Yosuke Sekiguchi one bit. He painstakingly recreated the classic motion by hand in his private workshop and created a particularly refined and easily beautiful watch, the Primevère.

Admittedly, when pondering of a historic pocket watch motion this previous, the overwhelming majority was constructed to run and lacked any ornate ornament or ending. However from whichever angle you take a look at it, the Primevère is just about flawlessly completed to Haute Horlogerie requirements. Virtually the complete motion is constructed by Yosuke Sekiguchi himself. Constructed of German Silver, the bridges are minimize and completed totally by hand, with bevelled edges and round brushing. Additionally, observe the 2 gold caps for the stability wheel and pallet lever, stylistically carried over from the unique inspiration.

Whereas there’s much more to find across the again, the entrance is sort of as equally as spectacular and continues in a method match for the unique Jules Jürgensen pocket watch. A white or black two-piece Grand Feu enamel dial is completed with refined spade-and-whip palms mixed with printed numerals and markings relying on the chosen case materials. The Yosuke Sekiguchi Primevère is available in a metal or rose gold case with a 39.5mm diameter. The peak is just a little shocking, at 12mm however a direct results of the historic development of the motion. On the wrist, you don’t discover the thickness of the watch in any respect and it’ll absolutely be appreciated by whoever is fortunate sufficient so as to add it to his/her assortment. We absolutely could be!

Yosuke Sekiguchi doesn’t have a private web site or social media channels however for extra data, please contact Koyanagi-Tokei.com (representatives of Yosuke Sekiguchi’s work).

Fast Details – 39.5mm x 12mm – chrome steel or rose gold case – sapphire crystal back and front – 30m water resistant – two-piece Grand Feu enamel dial in white or black – printed blue or black numerals and markings – spade-and-whip hour and minute palms – Calibre YS-Y01 – handbook winding – 18,000vph – 40h energy reserve – made to order – CHF 51,000 in metal or CHF 56,000 in rose gold (each excl. taxes)

Marco Lang and the Zweigesicht-1 watch

Marco Lang is a reputation that absolutely rings many bells with collectors and lovers. By his work of Lang & Heyne, Marco Lang has been lively within the watchmaking trade for a few years now. Previous to that, he restored clocks and scientific devices. After leaving Lang & Heyne he began engaged on his new solo undertaking beneath his personal identify. Offered in 2020, the Zweigesicht-1 was Marco Lang’s first mannequin beneath his eponymous atelier. And boy what a watch that is!

It took us some time to get our palms on it to {photograph} and expertise it in actual life however is each bit as spectacular as the pictures made us imagine it will be. The cool factor in regards to the Zweigesicht-1, which suggests ‘two-faced’ in German, is the actual fact it comes with an interchangeability system that lets you rotate the case and alter from “enterprise” to “social gathering”. With the watch comes a particular screwdriver that you need to use to unscrew each lug-ends, flip over the watch, and reattach the lugs. And voilá, similar to that you just’ve gone from an beautiful but conventional dial to the Zweigesicht-1’s extravagant aspect.

The watch is obtainable in metal, rose gold or platinum and is produced in very restricted portions (18 items solely). Virtually each element in every watch is made by Marco Lang himself, utilizing conventional instruments and methods. The ML-01 motion is sort of particular, as you possibly can see from the secondary, absolutely openworked aspect. It incorporates a double-barrel system, a blued Breguet hairspring with a home made four-legged stability wheel and a novel shock-indication system.

Every little thing is completed to Haute Horlogerie requirements with polished and bevelled edges, flame-blued elements, hand-applied engraving, and so on. On the opposite aspect of the watch, you get a classical dial with slender Roman numerals and a quilloché motif on the centre part. A refined but refined contact is the actual fact the hour hand extends as much as the ring that separates the 2 sections of the dial. It’s all performed very properly and provides a captivating double-view of artisanal watchmaking. Conventional on one finish, avant-garde on the opposite.

For extra data, please go to MarcoLangWatches.com

Fast Details – 40mm x 12.5mm – chrome steel, rose gold or platinum case – sapphire crystal on either side – particular case with detachable lug module – conventional dial in silver with Roman indices, guilloché motif and pencil palms – openworked reverse dial with white-fired skeleton components, translucent Grand Feu enamel and cathedral palms – Calibre ML-01, in-house – manually wound – lever escapement with free four-legged stability – blued Breguet hairspring – 70h energy reserve – twin time indication, shock-indication system – alligator strap with an interchangeable system – restricted to 18 items – priced from EUR 51,500 excl. VAT

Sylvain Pinaud and the Origine watch

Sylvain Pinaud is a comparatively new and upcoming watchmaker who studied watchmaking on the Lucée Edgar Faure in Morteau, France. We’ve gotten to know him by way of his wildly inventive and mechanically very spectacular Chronograph Monopoussoir. This was a watch he designed and constructed from scratch by himself, to enter a contest dedicated to craftsmanship in all kinds of industries (cheese-making included) unfold throughout a number of classes. The principle standards for competing is that the product must be made utilizing conventional, artisanal methods. Sylvain gained the highest prize within the Precision Strategies class, which we will absolutely perceive.

It has been a bit quiet since we first met Sylvain, however that doesn’t imply he has been dormant all that point. Fairly the opposite in truth, as a result of earlier this yr he offered his newest undertaking, the Origine. And boy what a watch that is! It appears vastly totally different from his extravagant Chronograph Monopoussoir, with a way more conventional type and development. But, the Origine is equally as unbelievable as his break-out watch, simply with a very totally different design.

The Origine contains a 40mm huge and 11mm tall absolutely polished chrome steel case. Whereas easy in form and development, it’s the good canvas for the unbelievable off-centred dial and motion that reside between the 2 sapphire crystals back and front. The dial is elevated from the motion and contains an hour and minutes show with a small seconds subdial. The underside half of the watch’s face is dominated by the escapement mechanism with a free-sprung stability. It’s held in place with a straight bridge, which together with the palms may also be made in 18k pink gold.

The again of the motion reveals the winding mechanism and click-spring nestled in a three-quarter plate with finger bridges over some elements of the working gear. Virtually every little thing you see is made by hand, or with the assistance of specialist subcontractors. For the motion, solely the jewels, mainspring and barrel spring are outsourced (which often is the case). On the entrance of the watch, the dial is made by Comblemine, which is considered top-of-the-line dial producers within the enterprise. There’s completely nothing to complain about on this, because the result’s completely gorgeous. So far as artisanal watchmaking goes, that is about pretty much as good because it will get!

For extra data, please go to Sylvain-Pinaud.com

Fast Details – 40mm x 11mm – 316L chrome steel case, polished – sapphire crystal back and front – 30m water resistant – handmade silver dial with off-centred hour and minutes and small-seconds show – Breguet-style hour hand – in-house made handbook wound motion – 22 jewels – 21,600vph – 55h energy reserve – free-sprung stability with Phillips spiral – bespoke choices accessible upon request – EUR 65,000 to EUR 68,000 excl. VAT relying on execution