Should you’re a recurring reader of MONOCHROME, it is best to very effectively bear in mind that we, as a staff, have a factor for chronographs, and particularly, vintage-inspired chronographs manufactured by husband-and-wife duo Richard and Maria Habring. In any case, this was the inspiration behind our very first Montre de Souscription, a sector dial monopusher with salmon color… And since we’re undoubtedly biased, there’s one other watch that all the time resonates very loud on the redaction room, a uncommon and completely beautiful mannequin made completely for Habring² long-term Japan retailer Shellman, the Monopusher with Breguet numerals and snail-shaped scales. We’ve already featured a black instance on MONO and immediately, it’s a silver version that makes it to the journal. To us, usually a watch it is best to have a look at intently, and perhaps add to your assortment.
Habring² is the type of model/watchmaker we love at MONOCHROME. Primarily based within the small city of Völkermarkt, Austria (already one thing uncommon), the present is run by a duo, husband-and-wife Richard and Maria Habring. An impartial watchmaker with soul and fervour, but in addition intuitu personae, it combines a no-nonsense fashion, a dedication to creating actions nice trying, dependable, environment friendly, straightforward to reside with, and in addition a formidable technical background. Certainly, Richard has been behind the event of a number of notable issues throughout his years at IWC, together with the creation of the DoppelChronograph, a rattrapante module for use on a Valjoux 7750.
Opposite to some ultra-high-end impartial watchmakers, watches manufactured (sure, we’re speaking correct in-house) by Habring² are supposed to be worn, attractively priced and made to final, because of intelligent constructions and intelligence in the way in which issues are built-in. This contains features such because the dead-beat seconds, the foudroyante or the duo’s signature work on the chronograph, the well-known hand-wound Monopusher, which is principally a closely modified and improved tackle the 7750.
There have been a number of editions of the Habring² Monopusher Chronograph, starting from classics within the everlasting assortment, to extra daring fashions such because the current Chrono Felix with luminous dial… and naturally, our MdS1 with sector dial. One of the fascinating editions, a watch that has lengthy been on Frank’s and I wishlists, is the watch you’ll be able to see immediately, the Japan Version made for retailer Shellman. This watch is arguably one of the vital interesting vintage-inspired chronographs available on the market – effectively, at the least, to us.
The story behind this watch makes us journey all the way in which to Tokyo, Japan, the place operates one of the vital revered retailers of impartial watches on the island, Shellman. The watch was designed completely for them, being a retailer of selection for the Habrings. And there are a lot of distinctive options to this watch to make it actually particular and collectable.
Initially, the utilitarian, no-nonsense case is right here provided in a compact, vintage-inspired measurement of 36mm and encompasses a stepped concave bezel fairly than a flat one – with a purpose to reply the tastes of Japanese collectors and to convey a powerful Nineteen Forties really feel. The case is brushed and polished, and distinguished by its single chronograph pusher at 2 o’clock. The opposite essential and distinctive characteristic is the dial, which mimics basic fashions from the Nineteen Forties, with a mixture of blued, outsized leaf arms, printed Breguet numeral and a snail-shaped tachymeter scale. This, along with the two-register structure and the telemeter scale on the outer part, makes little doubt on the inspiration and brings a compelling look. Provided additionally in black, the mannequin introduced right here by A Collected Man is provided with a silvered, straight brushed dial.
Contained in the case is the calibre A08-MONO, produced by Habring² in Austria. Primarily based on the strong ETA Valjoux 7750, the development and design have been closely modified, enhancing each its technical qualities in addition to its aesthetics. Practically all of the motion’s elements are produced by impartial suppliers, with nothing being made by ETA. The ending can also be on one other stage, with the bridges completed with round graining and bevelled edges, whereas the bottom plate options perlage. Many of the chronograph levers are straight-grained, with their edges bevelled and polished.
The current instance has been offered in 2020 and is delivered with its unique field, papers, Habring² strap and tang buckle, and a further brown strap by ACM. It’s out there right here from A Collected Man, at GBP 11,500, and mentioned to be in excellent situation and nonetheless has 25 months left on its three-year guarantee.
Should you’re on the lookout for a compact, actually engaging vintage-inspired chronograph made by nice individuals, look no additional… The Habring² Chronograph Monopusher Japan Version Shellman is the look ahead to you.
All images by www.acollectedman.com