Simply launched by H. Moser & Cie is the Endeavour Small Seconds Complete Eclipse, a limited-edition watch carried out in collaboration with menswear model The Armoury. Accomplished in both metal or two-tone purple gold, the Complete Eclipse is manual-wind, 38mm-wide, and has a Vantablack (the blackest of human-made blacks) dial.
Earlier than I get into the watch, right here is The Armoury co-founder Mark Cho on his inspiration behind the Endeavour Small Seconds Complete Eclipse:
“When Edouard and I first began speaking in regards to the concept of constructing a watch collectively, my major requirement was that it was small. I like watches which might be discreet however reveal a deeper complexity in case you pay them some consideration. To me, H. Moser & Cie.’s fumé dial and Vantablack® dial are iconic, and I wished to work with one in every of them as a place to begin for the design. Shortly, I began to favour the Vantablack®, and I had the concept so as to add markings to the dial someway. My design companion, Elliot Hammer, recommended that we think about the design with the theme of a complete photo voltaic eclipse. Thus, the Endeavour Small Seconds Complete Eclipse was born.”
The Endeavour Complete Eclipse is available in two varieties, every restricted to twenty-eight items. There may be the all-steel variant and the mannequin seen right here, which is two-tone metal and purple gold. Each have the Vantablack dial with the small round hour indices, which, as a result of nature of Vantablack, are drilled and present the dial plate beneath. This particular method is a primary for Moser (or anybody, for that matter), and the result’s fairly cool-looking. You’ll keep in mind that Moser did one thing related with the seconds subdial on the Swiss Alp Closing Improve, sans dial plate beneath.
Whereas this isn’t one in every of Moser’s “idea” dials (which forego indices or any markers, in addition to dial textual content), it’s about as minimal as one in every of its considerably lesser-known “purity” dials. Moser produced a number of purity variants of the now-discontinued Venturer that have been principally an idea dial plus hour markers. I’ve a sense Moser is leaning additional into the translucent emblem we noticed on the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. After all, that may be unattainable to do on Vantablack.
After which, there may be the “Complete Eclipse” facet of the dial, designed to evoke a photo voltaic eclipse (when the moon utterly hides the solar). The theme completely works with the purple gold chapter ring, including an uncommon and great framing to the dial. For my part, the two-tone is the best way to go in case you’re actually enthralled by the eclipse facet of this watch, however I perceive many individuals will gravitate towards the all-steel variant.
Whereas the Breguet-style arms are uncommon for Moser, this isn’t the primary time they’ve been used. Along with some earlier Heritage assortment fashions, there was a limited-edition Endeavour carried out with musician Bryan Ferry some years in the past that had Breguet-style arms. Actually, this was additionally a 38mm small seconds manual-wind Endeavour, however the design (and gold case) couldn’t be extra totally different. Personally, I’m just a little ambivalent towards them, however I additionally acknowledge that the interaction between the arms and hour markers is aesthetically pleasing and cohesive. Plus, I’ve to present Moser credit score for not simply sticking to rehashing designs from its most commercially profitable items.
The Endeavour Small Seconds Complete Eclipse comes within the smaller 38mm case with the manual-wind HMC 327 motion. This type isn’t a part of Moser’s normal manufacturing Endeavour line anymore (which is 40mm and has the automated HMC 200 motion), but it surely’s so refreshing to see a brand new Moser with a guide wind motion. The HMC 200 is superb — in truth, I personal an Endeavour with the HMC 200 — however Moser’s manual-wind actions are one thing actually particular. Sure, I’m positive these have been current actions and never newly manufactured particularly for the Complete Eclipse (contemplating the HMC 327 was broadly used on the Venturer), however that doesn’t make me any much less comfortable to see them.
The case measures 38mm-wide and 9.9mm-thick, which makes it each a superbly sized gown watch and a unisex piece. In the event you haven’t skilled the Endeavour case within the steel, I extremely recommend doing so. The scalloped components of the case band are intricately hand-polished and distinction superbly with the brushed ending on the remainder of the case. Moser dials and the Streamliner bracelet are likely to garner probably the most consideration, however I feel the Endeavour case is among the most stunning issues it has produced up to now.
Turning the case over reveals —*gasp*— a motion that isn’t too small for its case. Far too many watches as of late have an exhibition caseback that’s the dimension of a yolk on a fried egg. Not right here, because the HMC 327 is on full show with a bezel-sized case wrapping the exhibition window. It delighted me to as soon as once more see that fissure working down the middle of the HMC 327. Hand-finished with double-crested Moser stripes and energy reserve indicator, the HMC 327 has a Straumann Hairspring produced by Moser’s sister firm Precision Engineering. Paying homage to old-school pocket watch actions, the HMC 327 operates at 18,000 vph and has a three-day energy reserve, in addition to hacking seconds.
The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Small Seconds Complete Eclipse is proscribed to twenty-eight items every in both all-steel or metal and purple gold. Each come on a black calf leather-based strap and are every priced at $25,900. You may be taught extra at h-moser.com.