
Whereas it might have much more aesthetic frequent floor with a gown watch (not less than by right this moment‘s requirements), the reversible case of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was initially designed particularly to guard its crystal whereas enjoying polo, and at its very core, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is, actually, a sports activities watch. Though becoming an extra show to the reverse facet of the case fully defeats the unique objective of its design, it additionally unlocks a completely new realm of each aesthetic and practical potentialities, permitting customers to primarily have one watch with two very completely different personalities. Amongst a handful of recent Reverso releases unveiled this 12 months at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023 is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which is my private favourite among the many model’s novelties this 12 months. Obtainable in both chrome steel or strong gold, one facet gives a clear and basic time-only show within the spirit of the very first Reverso from 1931, whereas the opposite is a completely trendy skeletonized chronograph with a retrograde minutes counter.
Relatively than debuting this quite drool-worthy new mannequin solely in treasured metals, JLC gives the Reverso Tribute Chronograph in each chrome steel (ref. Q389848J) and 18k pink gold (ref. Q389257J). The oblong circumstances themselves measure 29.9mm-wide by 49.4mm-tall with an general thickness of 11.14mm, and whereas these proportions may sound quite compact, rectangular watches all the time put on bigger than round ones of comparable dimensions, and the quadrilateral profile of the JLC Reverso Tribute Chronograph nonetheless gives loads of wrist presence. Pictured right here on Jake’s wrist (as he was the one who took the pictures), the watch hardly seems undersized, and it finally gives much more visible impression than a case diameter of 29.9mm would in any other case point out. Moreover, for the reason that majority of the load resides inside its heart revolving case, the signature “Reverso” operation gives a very satisfying mechanical motion because it flips round and locks into the outer body of its case.
Though the underlying Reverso case idea has been used to create a remarkably broad assortment of various fashions through the years, the case of the brand new LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph gives a much more conventional tackle the gathering’s rectangular profile, as its “Tribute” designation implies that it attracts its inspiration from the unique Reverso watches from the Thirties. With decorative grooves on the highest and backside of the case, the general aesthetic impression of the brand new Tribute Chronograph may be very true to the model’s authentic imaginative and prescient for the watch, and whereas the time-only show additional leans into this basic look, the skeletonized chronograph facet gives a stark distinction with an inherently trendy general design. Simply as you’ll anticipate, a pair of sapphire crystals are fitted to both facet of the revolving heart case with a view to defend the 2 shows, whereas 30 meters of water resistance guards in opposition to every day incidental moisture contact (which was one thing that was missing on the unique Reverso watches from the Thirties).
On the right-hand facet of the case (when viewing the time-only show) is a signed winding crown flanked by two rectangular pushers which might be used to function the chronograph capabilities of the motion. Nonetheless, when the chronograph facet of the watch is going through upwards, the crown and pushers will seem on the left-hand facet of the case, which permits them to be operated by the thumb of your proper hand (assuming that you’re sporting it in your left wrist). On conventional spherical watches, chronograph pushers on the 9 o’clock facet can generally really feel a bit awkward to function, however when the case of the watch is rectangular, working them along with your thumb turns into a reasonably pure movement, resulting from the truth that they reside in a straight vertical line, quite than being positioned alongside the curved perimeter of a round case. Moreover, the skinny rectangular profile of the pushers gives minimal visible presence, so there’s little to distract from the straightforward and basic traces of the watch through the events whenever you merely want to put on it as a time-only piece.
Largely staying true to the basic design of the unique Reverso from 1931, the time-only dial of the brand new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph conceals the mannequin’s mechanical complexity with a easy pair of centrally-mounted dauphine palms and a sublime set of faceted batons for the hour markers. On the chrome steel mannequin, the dial seems in a cool blue-gray colour with a sunray end, whereas the 18k rose gold model is fitted with a gloss black dial that has matching rose gold palms and polished indexes. Apart from the pair of pushers on the facet of the case, the time-only facet of the JLC Reverso Tribute Chronograph is about as easy and basic because it will get, with out a lot as even a operating seconds hand or date window to detract from its clear and minimalist show.
Whereas the time-only facet of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph is basic and conventional, the chronograph facet is completely modern, with a skeletonized show and an arc-shaped retrograde minutes counter. On the higher half of the open-worked dial, you get a secondary show of the time with a distinguished centrally-mounted chronograph seconds hand. Two concentric rings make up the dial itself, with the outer one in the identical metallic end because the palms and markers, whereas the inside one incorporates a gloss black 60-unit scale, which can be utilized for each the minutes of the time and for the seconds of the chronograph. On the decrease half of the dial is an arc-shaped retrograde 30-minute counter for the chronograph, and this configuration gives most legibility given the pretty restricted quantity of obtainable house inside the rectangular case. Blued palms for the chronograph match the blued screws of the motion, and this creates a robust sense of visible concord that connects the inner motion of the watch to the accents on its largely skeletonized show.
Powering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph is the model’s Caliber 860 manual-wind motion. Operating at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with an influence reserve of roughly 52 hours, the JLC Cal. 860 is a completely built-in chronograph operated by a column wheel and horizontal clutch, the latter of which was chosen over a vertical clutch to assist guarantee a thinner profile on the wrist. In line with the model’s design philosophy that the form of a motion ought to match its case, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 860 gives a definite rectangular profile, and the choice to show the chronograph seconds on the higher half of the dial with the time, whereas the minutes obtain their very own retrograde show beneath, finally helps create a most quantity of legibility whereas nonetheless preserving a balanced and largely symmetrical general format. Lastly, simply as you’ll anticipate from a model referred to as “the watchmaker’s watchmaker,” the pushers on the JLC Reverso Tribute Chronograph provide an extremely crisp and snappy operation, thanks largely to the precision column wheel mechanism that sits totally seen by way of the dial facet of the watch on the 7 o’clock location.
Each the chrome steel and 18k rose gold variations of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph include two completely different straps that characteristic an interchangeable buckle system, which is a signature characteristic of the model’s Reverso Tribute collection. Included with every mannequin is one bi-material strap constituted of calf leather-based and canvas, together with an extra strap crafted fully from calf leather-based that provides a barely extra dressy general look. The straps are designed by the celebrated Argentinian polo boot producer Casa Fagliano, which additional connects the Reverso Tribute Chronograph to its historic roots on the polo subject, whereas additionally offering the watches with two completely different personalities to correspond with the 2 very completely different aesthetics of their shows.
Reverso watches with two faces are all the time dearer than those who solely have one, and on condition that chronographs are inherently extra complicated than time-only watches, the brand new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph is of course one of many dearer choices presently accessible inside the assortment. With an official retail value of $21,400 USD in chrome steel (ref. Q389848J) or $37,400 USD in 18k pink gold (ref. Q389257J), the brand new JLC Reverso Tribute Chronograph is objectively a quite costly timepiece, though it’s exhausting to not agree that these costs additionally appear quite affordable in a world the place persons are constantly paying greater than twice these values for normal Rolex Daytona chronographs in the identical supplies. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is without doubt one of the true icons from the world of watchmaking, and whereas the brand new Reverso Tribute Chronograph represents a big departure from the unique spirit of the mannequin, additionally it is primarily two completely different watches housed inside a single case, and it’s arguably probably the most visually hanging renditions of the Reverso that the model has ever put ahead. For extra info on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph, please go to the model’s web site.