How does one comply with up a fiftieth anniversary 12 months jam-packed with limited-edition releases with particular nods to the previous? For Audemars Piguet, it appears the reply is to simply carry on going and doing all of your factor. The model has simply introduced the discharge of a restricted Royal Oak “Jumbo” Further-Skinny that swaps the petite tapisserie dial for one thing completely new to the model. Well provided in blue, the brand new 16202 mannequin gives the identical beautiful case and historic parts as the releases from final 12 months, however with a dial that’s certain to garner some pleasure.
Let’s minimize proper to it. The brand new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Further-Skinny includes a brand-new grained blue dial, apparently taking its inspiration from a particular dial provided in 1992 in a platinum Royal Oak 14802. Protected by a flat sapphire crystal, the dial gives a really fine-grained texture, resembling asphalt within the close-up photographs supplied by the model. The blue hue is obtained with PVD, which is then lined in a translucent coating to spotlight the texturing. Pleasingly, the model has matched the three o’clock date window, holding all the things on the dial white and blue. Among the best issues concerning the Further-Skinny is the way it employs the identical utilized indices and handset—right here in white gold and with luminescent fill—as did early Royal Oaks, with the slim, rounded batons providing a less complicated and fewer dramatic type than these of the 15500.
The white gold case is similar distinctive Royal Oak design that began all of it. The porthole bezel is brushed with a cultured bezel, and the enduring eight screws are aligned completely. Be aware that that is the one present white gold case that isn’t in any other case adorned or a part of a sophisticated Royal Oak. The case is completed to match, with the well-defined brushing that flows seamlessly into the built-in bracelet, all with polished bevels. My one gripe with the Royal Oaks has at all times been the smaller crown. I perceive it’s necessitated by the low profile, however that doesn’t imply I can’t complain, because it appears the identical on this launch. In any case, the watch maintains the gathering’s 50m water resistance. The bracelet, in fact, is closed with a folding clasp. The Further-Skinny fashions are available a 39mm case that measures a scant 8.1mm-thick. The unique RO from 1972 was the identical diameter however 7mm thick—I’m prepared to forgive the added 1.1mm in alternate for having the ability to see a shocking fashionable motion via a sapphire caseback.
The motion is likely one of the latest in AP’s steady, the automated 7121, which debuted final 12 months within the fiftieth anniversary 16202s (and in addition acquired particular rotors for the event). Hand-finished to the caliber one would anticipate from the Le Brassus agency, it options Côtes de Genève, round graining, and traits tirés beveling all through, with contrasting 18K pink gold bridges and rotor embellished to an equally spectacular normal. The oscillating weight has ball bearings that make the most of two in-house reversers for bidirectional winding, the date wheel includes a quick-set operate, and the stability wheel has inertia blocks to assist with shock-proofing. Functionally, the motion operates at 28,800 vph and achieves an influence reserve of 55 hours.
Shopping for an Audemars Piguet as of late is as a lot about historicity and high quality as it’s about having one thing that’s extremely arduous to acquire—about standing and displaying one’s wealth and talent to get issues others can’t. A limited-edition Royal Oak in a treasured steel with a non-tapisserie blue dial performs proper into that sport, providing one other factor to fawn over for collectors, fans, and the deep-pocketed particular person who occurs to stroll into an AP boutique on the proper time. This is simply one other dial, however admittedly, AP does “simply one other dial” at a unique degree than most manufacturers. And whereas it could fall in need of the beautiful new blue dimpled dial RO tourbillon and, at a look, could also be accused of making an attempt to trick folks into an aventurine vibe, everybody is aware of a limited-edition blue luxurious watch will promote like hotcakes. Pricing for the brand new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Further-Skinny 16202 just isn’t out there as of presstime, however I’d anticipate it to be equally priced to the yellow gold 16202, which retails for $70,500. For extra info, please go to the model’s web site.