Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny 16202ST

Kill your darlings is what they are saying and across the identical time final yr, Patek Philippe killed the 5711 and Audemars Piguet killed the über-popular 15202. Inside a number of weeks, the 2 hottest watches on planet Earth have been discontinued and that triggered some turbulence on this planet of watches. AP’s Royal Oak Additional-Skinny a.okay.a. ‘Jumbo’ is now being changed by the brand new reference 16202. Has the Jumbo modified loads? Effectively, sure and no. It’s geared up with a brand new motion, however extra importantly, the 16202 nonetheless seems very very similar to a Royal Oak Jumbo. Let’s take a better take a look at the all-new chrome steel Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny 16202ST.

As mentioned, it has modified a LOT.

For the primary time since 1972, the Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny will likely be geared up with a unique motion, and that’s really fairly huge information! Up to now, the RO Jumbo has been geared up with the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920 ébauche and Audemars Piguet named it calibre 2121 (for the model with date, whereas the model with out date was named calibre 2120.) The opposite two manufacturers of the “Holy Trinity”, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, additionally used this motion albeit they baptized it with completely different calibre numbers. Audemars Piguet additionally used this motion in virtually each (self-winding) perpetual calendar (apart from the ref. 25800.) For 50 years, it has been an amazing motion for the Royal Oak Jumbo. Dependable and durable sufficient regardless of its thinness. Nevertheless it’s time for one thing new…

And that “one thing new” comes within the form of a brand new extra-thin motion. The brand new Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny 16202ST just isn’t geared up with simply one other motion. No, it now comes with a model new, in-house developed and manufactured motion named calibre 7121. This calibre provides an extended energy reserve, an elevated frequency and comes with a quick-set date. And these are helpful enhancements!

Calibre 7121 vs. 2121

• energy reserve elevated from 40h -> 55h
• frequency elevated from 19,800vph -> 28,800vph
• thickness from 3.05mm -> 3.2mm
• quick-set date
• rotor now mounted on ball bearings
• steadiness wheel with immediately inserted inertia blocks

The elevated energy reserve is achieved by an extended mainspring, and that’s simply actually nice because the 40h autonomy when absolutely wound might need been a tad outdated nowadays. The 55h of energy reserve that the brand new calibre delivers stretches the autonomy up, to greater than 2 days. It additionally permits for AP to get a extra steady fee of an extended interval and thus enhancing its chronometric performances.

At the very least as necessary is the elevated frequency. Going from 19,800 vibrations/hour to a contemporary 4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) is one other alternative for AP’s watchmakers to control the watch to the next precision. And the now accessible quick-set date might be the most effective enchancment altogether.

The brand new calibre 7121 is a bit bigger and thicker than its predecessor, however this has no impression on the case measurement of the brand new Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’. The diameter is now 29.6mm (over 28.0mm for cal. 2121) and thickness elevated to three.2mm (versus 3.05mm for cal. 2121.) One other necessary enchancment on the motion facet is that the central rotor is mounted on ball bearings, permitting for much less put on and tear. The steadiness wheel within the new motion is fitted with inertia blocks which have been immediately inserted throughout the steadiness wheel to keep away from pointless friction. And final however not least, the brand new motion is supplied with a patented extra-thin low-energy date-setting mechanism.

And eventually… the rotor will likely be adorned with a styled “50 years” emblem. However this can solely be featured on the watches manufactured this yr! As of 2023, the rotor on all Royal Oaks is not going to characteristic that cool “50 years” emblem anymore!

The lineage in reference numbers

The reference quantity 16202ST looks as if a logical successor to the earlier RO Jumbo ref. 15202ST. Nonetheless, the lineage of reference numbers for the Royal Oak Jumbo didn’t all the time evolve as logical as this time.

Initially launched in 1972 because the reference 5402ST, it disappeared from {the catalogue} for some ten years till it was relaunched, in 1992, by the references 14802ST (Jubilee version for the twentieth anniversary) and 15002ST (common mannequin.) Whereas the 14802ST added a see-through case-back, and subsequently a barely thicker case, the reference 15002ST remained fairly near the unique design and proportions of the ref. 5402ST.

Eight years later, in 2000, AP launched the reference 15202 that might substitute the opposite earlier references. This watch featured once more a see-through caseback, nevertheless, its dial featured the so-called Grande Tapisserie or huge ‘cobble stone’ sample (or Clous de Paris because it’s known as in French.) In 2012, the 15202 was refreshed, primarily bringing again the smaller Petite Tapisserie sample like on the unique 5402ST.

One issue, which could look like a small factor, nevertheless it definitely isn’t a small factor to collectors (!!), is the place of the AP emblem. On the unique 5402ST, the AP emblem was positioned between the dial’s centre and the 6 o’clock marker. This was the case for the A collection, B collection and perhaps a few of the C collection, nevertheless precisely how & when just isn’t very clear… Let’s say that in direction of the tip of the Seventies, across the C collection and D collection manufacturing, the AP emblem was transferred to the 12 o’clock place. As of the revamped 15202ST that was launched in 2012, the AP emblem was again on the 6 o’clock place once more. And for the 16202ST, the AP emblem stays on the 6 o’clock place. This, plus the dearth of a second hand, make it simple to establish the Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny amongst different Royal Oak fashions.

As mentioned, it hasn’t modified a lot in any respect…

A very powerful of the brand new 16202ST is that it nonetheless seems very very similar to the 5402ST, the 14802ST, the 15002ST and the 15202ST… and that’s an excellent factor! Whereas the engine inside modified, for the higher, the seems and proportions of the watch stay just about equivalent. The diameter nonetheless measures 39mm and its thickness continues to be 8.1mm. The bracelet stays the identical and continues to be hand-finished with satin-brushing and polished chamfers. The bracelet is closed with a double folding clasp, equivalent to the one on reference 15202ST. Briefly, it’s virtually totally the identical because the earlier technology, no less than for the exterior elements.

Different elements that didn’t change in any respect are the dial, the markers and the palms. The dial color stays the identical blue, which Audemars Piguet calls Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 – which, translated to English offers “night time blue, cloud 50”. Additionally, the hour markers, the minuterie (minute markers), the utilized AP emblem, the “Audemars Piguet automated” printing and the date window are all the identical. Though the latter moved a fraction of a millimetre in direction of the sting of the dial, however that is virtually inconceivable to see…

At a later second, we’ll put the 5402ST, the 15202ST and the 16202ST subsequent to at least one one other.

Availability & Worth

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny 16202ST is launched as a part of the everlasting assortment. There are additionally 3 different 16202 fashions in valuable metals launched, however we’ll come again on this matter quickly. The metal model reference 16202ST.OO.1240ST.01 will likely be accessible (effectively, if ever you may get one…) as of February 2022 and is priced at EUR 32,400 (incl. taxes). For extra, please go to www.audemarspiguet.com.

And right here’s a choice of pictures, and naturally don’t miss the video assessment on prime of the article!