1972-2022. Sure, Audemars Piguet‘s most emblematic watch, and probably the most iconic watches of the complete business, the Royal Oak, is celebrating its Fiftieth anniversary – regardless that, wanting on the watch, it doesn’t reveal its age. As you’ve come to count on, the model shall be utilizing this jubilee because the event to revamp a number of the fashions, to introduce new in-house actions, to launch particular editions… Effectively, we’re speaking about a complete 50-year assortment. Following the alternative of the Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny, with the brand new 16202ST we introduced right here, the model has additionally introduced a brand new Additional-Skinny Openworked. Following the custom established for the Fortieth anniversary with this watch, it’s time to find the brand new metal Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny Openworked, a.ok.a the 16204ST.
Openworked & Royal Oak
The entire concept of an openworked motion on the Royal Oak is much from new. The truth is, the Royal Oak assortment has included greater than 50 openworked fashions to at the present time, in fact with varied actions, kinds, sizes, and supplies. However we’re right here to speak in regards to the Jumbo Additional-Skinny Openworked, a a lot rarer breed within the model’s assortment.
The entire idea of openworking or skeletonisation, the duty of painstakingly and manually eradicating materials from the motion’s plate and bridges to disclose a number of the inside mechanics, just isn’t new at AP. It was once one in all its areas of experience between the 1930-Nineteen Fifties. This inventive craft resurfaced within the Nineteen Seventies, particularly on the Calibre 2120 – that very same motion that has outfitted the Royal Oak Additional-Skinny since its creation. Openworking solely appeared within the Royal Oak assortment in 1981 with a pendant model – ref. 5710BA – adopted in 1986 with ref. 25636 outfitted with the ultra-thin self-winding perpetual calendar Calibre 2120/2800.
The primary Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny Openworked was launched in 1992, inside the thirtieth anniversary “Jubilee” assortment. This reference 14811 was, nonetheless, a one-of-a-kind mannequin auctioned for a basis. A number of Jumbo fashions outfitted with extra-thin Calibre 2120 have been launched in very small sequence till the 12 months 2000. In 2012, the model returned to openworking the Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny with the reference 15203PT, a 40-piece restricted version launched within the body of the Fortieth-anniversary celebrations. This mannequin includes a 39mm platinum case and is powered with calibre 5122. In 2014, a pink gold model (ref. 15204OR) was launched. And similar to the model did for the 40-year assortment, there’s a brand new RO Jumbo Openworked coming for the 50Y assortment.
The Fundamentals of the 16204
So, right here it’s, a brand new Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny Openworked. However as we’re speaking in regards to the 50-year assortment, you may simply think about that Audemars Piguet hasn’t simply re-issued the earlier mannequin with only some minor updates. Certainly, the 16204ST continues to be firmly a Royal Oak Jumbo and, on this occasion, it shares its case, dimensions and proportions with the traditional closed-dial Jumbo 16202. However mechanically, that’s one other story right here too.
So let’s summarise all you must find out about this Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny Openworked 16204ST earlier than going into the small print:
- Traditional Jumbo case, 39mm x 8.1mm, similar to the closed-dial 16202
- Similar bracelet, similar clasp, similar bezel, similar total type
- It’s manufactured from STEEL. Sure, opposite to the Fortieth-anniversary mannequin, Audemars Piguet has determined to remain true to the unique materials and affords the Jumbo Additional-Skinny Openworked in probably the most anticipated materials. Word that there’s an 18k rose gold model too, beneath the reference 16204OR
- It’s not restricted, regardless that it gained’t be produced in excessive numbers
- It has a model new self-winding, extra-thin motion, the Calibre 7124, which is predicated on the new-generation, in-house produced Calibre 7121 launched within the closed-dial Jumbo 16202
- It’s a no-date watch, and its motion is completed with excessive consideration to element
Let’s now take a look at the 16204 extra carefully.
The Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny Openworked 16204ST
As you’ve seen with the fundamentals above, the Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny Openworked 16204ST we’re presenting to you right here is principally an openworked, no-date model of the Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny 16202. As such, there’s not a single distinction relating to the habillage. Case, bezel, crown, caseback, bracelet and clasp are all similar. What modifications has to do with the motion and, you’ve guessed it, the absence of a dial.
The case of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 16204 is thus the identical as what’s used within the closed-dial 16202 launched on the similar time. And meaning the identical case because the earlier technology Jumbo, the 15202. At 39mm in diameter, it stays true to the proportions used on the unique 1972 Royal Oak reference 5402. The peak of the case, being an extra-thin watch, is measured at 8.1mm, the identical thickness because the earlier technology Jumbo, and only a bit thicker than the unique 1972 mannequin – principally defined by means of a sapphire caseback. Water-resistance on this Openworked 16204ST continues to be rated at 50 metres.
The emblematic octagonal bezel, with its eight white gold screws, is unbroken and nonetheless depends on a big polished bevel on its periphery. The stainless-steel case creates no surprises, with the traditional design and mixture of vertically-brushed surfaces and polished accents on the perimeters we’ve come to count on from a Royal Oak. Let’s be trustworthy, relating to the habillage; we’re in acquainted territories. It’s a deliberate alternative from Audemars Piguet, which wished to maintain the spirit of the unique Jumbo alive. Perhaps there shall be extra daring variations in different ranges – computerized, chronographs, problems – however the Jumbo is a 50 years previous icon that deserves some respect, and AP wished to keep up the legacy. Prefer it or not…
Whereas on a traditional Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny I’d have now talked in regards to the dial and described its petite tapisserie sample, there’s no such factor right here. The central a part of the watch is fully dedicated to showcasing the motion. A number of attention-grabbing factors however. The motion is framed by a tone-on-tone rhodium-plated inside bezel, on which is printed a black minute monitor and utilized facetted, quick but luminous hour markers. The arms are executed in the identical vein and are literally bolder and extra angular than the traditional RO arms discovered on the closed-dial Jumbo. Likely to intensify the distinction with the motion. The identical may be mentioned in regards to the option to have the arms and markers accomplished in 18k pink gold, regardless that, like for a lot of totally openworked watches, legibility isn’t the primary high quality of the Jumbo Additional-Skinny Openworked 16204ST.
Let’s now speak in regards to the motion, the Calibre 7124. As Frank defined in his in-depth article on the brand new Jumbo 16202, the primary evolution of the Fiftieth-anniversary assortment, not less than for the Jumbo fashions, is to be seen contained in the instances. After 50 years of utilizing the JLC-based motion, recognized internally beneath the reference 2121, the Royal Oak Jumbo fashions lastly get fashionable mechanics developed and produced in-house. And whereas the 16202 will get the self-winding Calibre 7121, the Openworked 16204 receives its skeletonised brother, the Calibre 7124.
Calibre 7121 and 7124 have been developed in parallel, which signifies that the place and geometries of the totally different elements equipping each actions outcome from the want to make a harmonious and well-balanced openworked model. Each share the identical mechanical structure, with extra-thinness in thoughts, but additionally extra reliability and luxury than the earlier Calibre 2121. The two.7mm Calibre 7124 – thinner than the one used within the closed-dial mannequin, as a result of removing of the date mechanism – thus boasts 57 hours of energy reserve regardless of a better frequency of 4Hz. It is supplied with a recent slim oscillating weight mounted on ball bearings, providing bidirectional winding. The steadiness wheel is fitted with inertia blocks.
What units the Calibre 7124 aside from the 7121 is first the absence of a date, second – clearly – the openworking utilized by AP’s watchmakers. The method is combining fashionable methods, because the preliminary geometries of the mainplate and bridges are lower by CNC machining and electrical discharge machining (EDM), with conventional ornament methods. The elements are then fully completed by watchmakers, revealing no fewer than 324 polished V angles – which, as you would possibly know, can solely be accomplished by hand. The result’s a technical and geometric motion with an nearly spider-web impact that frames the primary elements, that means the barrel and the steadiness wheel. The again reveals the identical total design intention and makes use of the mirror transversal bridges for the steadiness and the barrel. It options the “50 Years” oscillating weight that’s reserved for the 2022 manufacturing solely.
Along with the stainless-steel 16204ST model introduced right here, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny Openworked will even be obtainable in 18k pink gold, with a motion that’s executed in slate gray for extra distinction.
Availability & worth
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny Openworked in stainless-steel (reference 16204ST.OO.1240ST.01) is introduced as a part of the everlasting assortment and isn’t restricted. The value is USD 90,400 for the metal model. For extra particulars, please go to www.audemarspiguet.com.