Final week, and also you hardly can have missed it, Audemars Piguet introduced an entire new assortment of Royal Oak watches celebrating the fiftieth anniversary of the icon born in 1972. Amongst a dozen up to date fashions, there was, after all, the model new Jumbo, the reference 16202, which we’ve extensively reviewed on this article, in its all-time traditional chrome steel model. However there’s extra to the brand new Royal Oak Jumbo than simply the metal mannequin. In truth, AP has introduced 4 completely different variations, together with the one you see right here, a daring and loud yellow gold watch with a smoked yellow-gold-toned dial. And I do know I nonetheless have points admitting it, however boy does it look cool! So sure, the Royal Oak Jumbo Further-Skinny 16202BA is the newest addition to my “responsible pleasure watch” listing.
I do know I ought to be luring after the chrome steel Royal Oak Jumbo Further-Skinny 16202ST, for every thing it represents. As a result of it’s probably the most devoted model. As a result of it’s additionally much more in step with my common codes of discretion and my character. As a result of it is going to be probably the most comfy on the wrist. And, after all, the Royal Oak Jumbo by some means needs to be a metal watch with a Petite Tapisserie blue dial. However guidelines are supposed to be damaged (those that know AP will definitely see the connection right here…) and, for a fully unknown cause, I can’t cease taking a look at this new 18k yellow gold model with its really particular smoked dial, the 16202BA.
I can’t clarify the attraction… I merely can’t consider an goal cause for this behaviour of mine, a sense I do know I shouldn’t have. Or perhaps I ought to. This watch is just like the lady you wish to date however you already know, deep down, that you just shouldn’t introduce her to your dad and mom. I’m undecided I might put on the yellow gold Royal Oak Jumbo Further-Skinny 16202, however for no matter cause, I need one. Typical responsible pleasure. However because the French creator Pascal stated “Le cœur a ses raisons que la raison ignore” that may very well be translated in English as “coronary heart does issues for causes that cause can not perceive.”
That being stated, and after a manner too deep introspection into my private emotions, let’s discuss watches and the hanging, oddly enticing Jumbo Further-Skinny 16202BA in yellow gold. Identical to the chrome steel model we launched on this article and video final week, there aren’t many surprises within the new technology Jumbo with regards to the outside of the watch. What was true for the metal mannequin is mainly true for the gold mannequin too, with a couple of nuances to be expressed. Whilst you’ll have a tough time recognizing the distinction between a metal 15202 and a metal 16202, the brand new technology Royal Oak Jumbo in yellow gold can be noticed within the blink of a watch.
Whereas the second-generation 15202 dates again to 2012, the complete 18k yellow gold version of this watch has been introduced later, on the SIHH 2017. The reference 15202BA truly comprised two variations, one with a traditional blue dial and the opposite with an identical gold-toned petite tapisserie dial. And sure, the latter was additionally certainly one of our all-time favorite editions of the 15202. With the brand new technology of Royal Oak Jumbo, Audemars Piguet has introduced 4 watches, as subsequent to the metal mannequin with blue dial, you’ll discover a rose gold model with smoked gray dial, a platinum model with smoked inexperienced dial (with out tapisserie) and the current watch, an 18k yellow gold model with a surprising, over-demonstrative smoked yellow-gold-toned dial with Petite Tapisserie sample.
We’ll begin with the apparent and what doesn’t actually have to be stated. Aside from being manufactured from 18k yellow gold, the case and bracelet of this 16202BA is completely similar to the metal model, and thus additionally 99% similar to the earlier technology 15202. This implies the traditional proportions, with a 39mm diameter and the identical 8.1mm peak. Clearly, the octagonal bezel with white gold screws has been retained and every thing, specifications-wise, has been stored, from the sapphire crystals on each side or the 50m water-resistance.
Underneath the sapphire case-back is the true novelty. After 50 years with the identical motion, the Calibre 2121, the Royal Oak Jumbo Further-Skinny will get a contemporary engine, conceived and manufactured in-house. A slender computerized motion, it’s barely bigger and thicker than earlier than, but this has no influence on the scale of the case. Importantly, it now affords a recent development with robustness in thoughts, and comes with an prolonged energy reserve of 55 hours, regardless of the fast-beating escapement (4Hz frequency). Additionally, it lastly comes with a quick-set date. The rotor, mounted on ball bearings, is manufactured from 22k gold and, just for this yr’s manufacturing, reveals the “50 years” brand.
What really issues with the Royal Oak Jumbo Further-Skinny 16202BA is the dial. That fiery, sunset-like gradient dial starting from yellow gold within the centre to black within the periphery. It’s mixed with stable gold palms and utilized markers (and sure, they’re the identical as earlier than) and to the traditional – dare I say iconic – petite tapisserie engine-turned sample. The date window additionally matches the dial’s color. That extremely sturdy, polarizing, oddly enticing smoked color, which provides this watch an unbelievable character. The best way the gradient impact performs with the proportions of the watch and the way it focalizes the eye to the centre of the dial drastically change the notion of the watch and its shapes. Whereas the earlier yellow gold Jumbo was all about uniformity with its tone-on-tone dial, this new one by some means redefines the proportions and shapes of the Royal Oak.
Certainly, I’m not anticipating this version to be unanimously accepted and, in a manner, it’s a great factor. I’ll utterly perceive that you just’ll disagree with me on the excessive stage of attractivity of this 16202BA as a result of, in any case, it’s a true assertion piece. I believe it was the entire concept of Audemars Piguet with this version, however the end result, if polarizing, definitely creates sturdy feelings. At the very least, it does on me… I hate to say it, however I actually have one thing for this watch.
For extra particulars about all of the updates (and the similarities) on the brand new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Further-Skinny 16202 assortment, please seek the advice of our in-depth article with video right here.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Further-Skinny Yellow Gold 16202BA is introduced as a part of the everlasting assortment and isn’t restricted in manufacturing. It’s priced at EUR 68,300 or USD 70,500. For extra particulars, please go to www.audemarspiguet.com.