Find it irresistible or hate it, name it a hype-collection, however the truth is that the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (and all its offspring) stays one of the crucial fascinating collections in the marketplace. It’s also by far a very powerful assortment in Audemars Piguet’s catalogue however the model isn’t merely resting on its laurels. Contemplating how a lot it has advanced from the unique ref. 5402 offered in 1972, the signature DNA continues to be very a lot current. 20 years after first launched, the Royal Oak acquired an replace into the much more masculine Royal Oak Offshore, which brought on a sensation but once more. Now, in 2021, we’ve had the fortune to spend a while with one of many newest and most advanced fashions within the line-up, the (take a deep breath) Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph 26622TI.
It takes a little bit of time to wrap one’s head round all the small print of this very technical and sophisticated iteration of the Royal Oak Offshore. It additionally marks a step into a brand new route for the ROO assortment, with up to date appears to be like and motion. As our editor Rebecca has gracefully described it, “this 43mm ROO notches up the efficiency degree of the chronograph with the incorporation of a flyback chronograph and enhances the spectacle with a flying tourbillon.”
A reworked exterior
However it’s not simply in regards to the watch’s mechanical marvel that makes it tick, it’s equally as a lot in regards to the habillage, the outside, of the AP ROO as effectively. The dimensions of this Royal Oak Offshore “Tourbi-Chrono” is basic for the gathering, at 43mm in diameter. Not small by any means, after all, nevertheless it stays considerably wearable for most individuals. In truth, it carefully matches the size of the brand new Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph ref. 26420 offered earlier this 12 months, albeit the current one is a millimetre taller.
The case is made from grade 5 titanium, which has been given a wonderful, grainy sandblasted end for a technical, nearly tactile feel and appear. This light-weight materials has additionally been used on the bezel, the guards surrounding the push-pieces and the studs. That is mixed with ceramic pushers for the chronograph and a ceramic six-sided screw-down crown. In comparison with earlier fashions of the Royal Oak Offshore, the polished chamfers on the perimeters are enlarged. What’s additionally noteworthy is the actual fact the bezel and sapphire crystal comply with a slight curve from 12 to six o’clock. Considerably akin to the structure additionally seen on the controversial Marvel Royal Oak Idea Black Panther.
Should you look at the case of the 26622TI extra carefully, just a few different issues stand out as effectively. Given the truth that grade 5 titanium offers a really completely different tone of gray when polished, brushed or sandblasted, the watch will look completely different underneath various gentle. As the images present you, in a single angle the highest floor of the bezel appears to be like nearly anthracite gray, closely contrasting in opposition to the polished chamfer, and in one other angle, it seems a lot lighter but nonetheless matte. This play of ending is sustained into the motion as effectively, which we’ll get to in a bit.
Uncovering the motion
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph 26622TI has no actual dial and places a lot of the entrance aspect of the motion’s mainplate and working gears in view. The chronograph rings, with the 30-minute counter on the left and the 12-hour counter on the proper, use crimson markings and fingers for a little bit of distinction. The central chronograph seconds hand is completed in the identical crimson tone.
The subdials are barely moved up from the horizontal axis of the dial, to present technique to the big, one-minute flying tourbillon regulator at 6 o’clock. On the alternative aspect, we now have the utilized AP brand, and the time is indicated by massive, daring white gold fingers with a Tremendous-LumiNova strip down the centre. The chronograph is began, stopped and reset by the pushers on both aspect of the crown. And naturally, being a flyback chronograph, it may be reset to zero on the run.
Powering this beast of a watch is a reworked model of the model’s in-house flying tourbillon flyback chronograph motion first launched within the Code 11.59 in 2020. Initially often called calibre 2952, it’s now labelled as calibre 2967. The most important distinction will not be a lot the technical particulars, however the building and design. It options new plates and bridges in a extra technical, nearly industrial configuration, including to the modern look of the watch.
The watch is regulated by a flying tourbillon, suspended solely from the bottom. It’s value mentioning AP has been utilizing cantilevered tourbillons, which is the technical time period, for just a few years now. We first noticed it on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Idea for Girls in 2018. The escapement makes use of a rhodium-toned steadiness wheel, retaining in step with the predominantly gray tones of the remainder of the watch. An attention-grabbing contact to the calibre 2967’s building is using black PVD coated titanium bridges and plates.
As soon as once more Audemars Piguet places nice consideration to element on the ornament right here. On all of the bevels of the plates and bridges, the PVD coating has been stripped again and polished by hand to present distinction in opposition to the black surfaces. It additionally has titanium inserts for much more distinction. And lastly, the 22k white gold rotor driving the mainspring barrel can be coated in black PVD. All in all of the motion offers nice ranges of depth to the watch, completely befitting the watch’s habillage.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph 26622TI is worn on a black rubber strap with an AP-shaped folding clasp. The strap has a grainy texture, which is kind of good to the contact. A secondary large-scaled alligator leather-based strap can be equipped with it, and the interchangeable strap system lets you simply swap one for the opposite. This reference 26622TI.GG.D002CA.01 is restricted to 100 items solely, at a retail worth of CHF 242,100.
Ultimate Ideas
To me, this watch is all about angles, textures, distinction, the play of sunshine. Even inside parts comprised of the identical base materials, AP exhibits its experience in ending. The result’s an attention-grabbing contradictio in terminis between the modern design, trendy supplies and the normal hand-applied ending methods. An ideal instance of that is the alternating brushed and polished end of the ceramic pushers. Sure, it’s a huge and daring piece, however the quantity of labor to raise it into being greater than only a testosterone packed instrument may be very admirable, and typical of AP’s philosophy.
For extra data, please go to AudemarsPiguet.com
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