Yesterday, Audemars Piguet unveiled a slew of latest watches that largely consisted of core assortment fashions powered by pretty commonplace actions. Whereas three-handed watches and chronographs are the bread and butter of AP’s fashionable lineup, the model additionally actually is aware of find out how to make problems, and simply at some point after saying the entire new core fashions, Audemars Piguet is now giving us the sophisticated stuff.
Though the traditional time-and-date model of the Royal Oak will at all times be the perennial fan-favorite, the Idea collection (first launched in 2002 to have fun the thirtieth anniversary of the Royal Oak) represents probably the most technologically superior and “on the market” designs in AP’s whole lineup. That is usually seen as the gathering the place the model goes to flex its manufacturing muscle tissues and check out new concepts. Consequently, each single mannequin within the Idea collection options superior supplies, completely modern designs, and heavy-hitter problems. The newest addition to the lineup is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Idea Cut up-Seconds GMT Massive Date, which takes the core aesthetic of the enduring Royal Oak and transforms it right into a extremely complicated and futuristic timepiece.
Crafted from titanium, the case of the brand new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Idea Cut up-Seconds GMT Massive Date (Ref. 26650TI.OO.D013CA.01) measures 43mm in diameter by an enormous 17.4mm thick, and it affords a extremely fashionable and angular tackle the traditional octagonal form of the Royal Oak. All the case affords a curved profile to raised correspond with the pure form of the wrist, and encompasses a combination of sandblasted titanium surfaces with high-polished accents. Each side of the case function sculptural angular inserts that type the guards for the crown and pushers. Moreover, whereas the watch options the Royal Oak’s signature octagonal bezel with vertical brushing and eight uncovered screws, each the profile of the bezel and the crystal that sits inside it are curved to correspond with the general form of the case, creating an ultra-modern rendition of a traditional and acquainted design.
The screw-down winding crown at 3 o’clock, together with the 2 pushers flanking it and the extra pusher positioned on the 9 o’clock place are all crafted from black ceramic. The screw-on titanium caseback encompasses a sapphire show window, and is barely recessed into the center case as a way to protect the watch’s curved profile. Whereas the general form of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Idea Cut up-Seconds GMT Massive Date could be very a lot in-line with the remainder of the Idea collection, the angular inserts on the aspect of the case and the high-polished faceted angles finally present the watch with a noticeably extra aggressive and angular look. Regardless of being extremely complicated from a technological standpoint, the Royal Oak Idea Cut up-Seconds GMT Massive Date continues to be categorically a sports activities watch, and it affords a middling 50 meters of water resistance to protect in opposition to each day incidental contact.
Provided that the first goal of the Idea collection is to showcase the model’s pioneering expertise, the dial of the watch is very open-worked as a way to expose as a lot of the motion as potential. Lower from a plate of German silver, the dial attracts its inspiration from the design of motion bridges, that includes a sandblasted black PVD floor with polished rhodium bevels. The white gold fingers, hour-markers, date show, and GMT day/evening disc are all completed with a luminous coating, whereas small pops of vivid purple and yellow are used for the markings of the chronograph and GMT operate, respectively.
Surrounding the dial is an angled rehaut that options each a seconds observe for the chronograph, and a tachymeter scale printed in white alongside the outermost periphery of the dial. Whereas the face of the watch affords loads of visible intrigue, arguably probably the most uncommon function concerning the dial is that it doesn’t have the model’s identify or brand wherever on it. This helps maintain the deal with the micro-mechanics which are seen by the quite a few apertures in its floor.
Whereas the case of the brand new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Idea Cut up-Seconds GMT Massive Date is actually putting, the true focus of this mannequin is its motion. Working at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with an influence reserve of roughly 70 hours, the Caliber 4407 is predicated upon the model’s Caliber 4401 flyback chronograph motion that was first launched in 2019. It represents Audemars Piguet’s first self-winding flyback chronograph geared up with a split-seconds mechanism. With that in thoughts, the Cal. 4407 had been considerably re-engineered to enhance vitality administration, as a way to enable the addition of the cut up seconds mechanism.
Together with displaying its secondary time zone inside the sub-dial on the 3 o’clock location, the Cal. 4407 additionally encompasses a new oscillator, and the split-seconds mechanism has been built-in into the middle of the bearing mounting for the strong platinum oscillating weight. The advantages of relocating the split-seconds mechanism are twofold: along with permitting AP to scale back the general top of the motion, the operation of the split-seconds wheel and two actuating clamps may be clearly seen by the sapphire window within the show caseback.
Finishing the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Idea Cut up-Seconds GMT Massive Date is a black rubber strap with grey inserts that proceed the angular traces of the case and create an impressively built-in look. The rubber strap connects to the case with a quick-release system that’s built-in immediately into the case (a primary for the AP Idea assortment), and the signed titanium triple blade folding clasp additionally options quick-release connections in order that it may be simply swapped throughout strap adjustments. Included with the watch is an extra all-black rubber strap, and Audemars Piguet additionally plans to promote two extra black rubber straps for the Idea collection which have both vivid purple or yellow accents for many who want to lean into the small pops of coloration on the dial.
Relating to pricing, the brand new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Idea Cut up-Seconds GMT Massive Date is solely listed as “Worth Upon Request” (regardless of a number of official requests by our editorial staff) and that is considerably to be anticipated given the ultra-exclusive nature of the mannequin. Fairly than saying “worth upon request” (which solely tells us that it’ll undoubtedly be costly), they need to simply say “we’d quite not disclose it” — or higher but, “if it’s important to ask, you in all probability can’t afford it.” That stated, identical to the remainder of the Idea collection, the brand new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Idea Cut up-Seconds GMT Massive Date is sort of assured to be accompanied by a six-figure price ticket. Given the large margins that exist with such an costly watch, I’m certain the precise retail worth is open to negotiation, must you truly want to buy one. Fairly than representing the way forward for the Royal Oak assortment, AP’s Idea collection may actually be seen as a set of prototype halo items (even supposing they’re out there for buy). The ultra-modern and angular look of the brand new Royal Oak Idea Cut up-Seconds GMT Massive Date isn’t going to exchange the design of the traditional Royal Oak, however the brand new expertise showcased in its motion will greater than possible find yourself making its approach all through the remainder of the gathering within the coming years. For extra data, please go to the model’s web site.