Behind the Lens: Oileán H-B1 Triple Calendar Chronograph by John McGonigle

As we proceed to grind our means into what I sincerely hope is the post-pandemic period, I’ve had extra alternatives to get along with watch buddies and deal with, and {photograph} a few of their current acquisitions.

My publicity-shy pal “Chuck” is a seemingly infinite supply for fascinating items, particularly these from unbiased makers. When the historical past of unbiased watchmaking over the previous 20 years is written, Chuck will definitely deserve a point out – if he permits it, that’s. He was an early patron of makers from Voutilainen to Ballouard, and his assortment contains watches from an incredible a lot of at present’s main independents, in addition to some “insider” items just like the Christian Klings watches I’ve been in a position to share right here beforehand.

Oileán HB-1 from John McGonigle                                                                                                                                     

A couple of years in the past, at an unbiased watchmaking dinner in Basel, I noticed Chuck huddling with the sensible Irish watchmaker John McGonigle, who, along with having labored behind the scenes on extremely difficult references for a lot of manufacturers, had, alongside along with his brother Stephen, created the self-branded McGonigle Tuscar I had the chance to put in writing about for Quill & Pad in 2015.

John and Chuck have been inspecting what appeared to be a classic calendar chronograph, and I left them to their non-public dialogue. I suppose I mustn’t have been shocked when, these years later, Chuck pulled up his sleeve to disclose the product of the venture that he and John had been discussing: a fantastically made complete-calendar chronograph known as the Oileán based mostly on the traditional Valjoux Cal. 88 motion.

Traditional roots, artistic therapy: John McGonigle’s Oileán HB-1

I used to be notably eager to see the manufacturing model as our personal Ian Skellern had offered his impressions on a prototype model in February 2021 and I puzzled if the ultimate embodiment would surpass the pre-production instance.

A entrance value seeing

For all of the watches on the market with clear show casebacks, there aren’t that many with clear or translucent dials revealing the works beneath. Whereas that’s a minimum of partly for causes of legibility, there’s one other key aspect at play: the entrance sides of most watch actions are, to be blunt, fairly boring.

An entire lot occurring: seen dial-side works, McGonigle Oileán HB-1

Fortunately, that’s not the case with the Valjoux 88, as there’s sufficient occurring with the month and day wheels, the central date hand, the moon section, and their accompanying mechanical drivers to command our consideration when seen via the marginally smoked sapphire dial. And out entrance, the brilliant rings for chronograph minutes and hours and the working seconds present added visible pop.

Intelligent proportions: chapter rings and sub-dials give the Oileán HB-1 a balanced look

At 29.5mm in diameter, the Valjoux 88 isn’t precisely gigantic, however McGonigle cleverly retains us from feeling that the sub-dials are too near the middle of the watch along with his use of a vibrant, dished date ring and a darkish internal ring with the hour indices that finally yields to the clear central circle and the sub-dial rings hovering above.

If I’ve a grievance concerning the dial aspect of this watch, it’s that, as a photographer, the absence of exterior anti-reflective coating on the primary crystal gave me suits. I delight myself on with the ability to give viewers an unobstructed view of a watch first after which re-introduce restricted quantities of sunshine scatter on the crystal to present a way of depth; however from all however probably the most direct angles of view the Oileán defied my efforts to make scatter-free pictures.

Shadows and scatter: Oileán HB-1 from John McGonigle

As we’ll see later, in the true world – that’s, on the wrist – this proves to not be an issue in any respect. So, until you intend to view this piece solely within the confines of your mild tent, you shouldn’t have a problem – and even in that case, McGonigle advises me that he’ll add anti-reflective coating for any purchaser who requests it.

A again a minimum of pretty much as good because the entrance

If the entrance of the Oileán brings quiet pleasure, the reverse brings extra exuberant sensations of pleasure. McGonigle has remodeled the usual Valjoux motion into an open backyard of levers, springs, and open bridges.

Mechanical pleasure: modified Valjoux Cal. 88 motion, Oileán HB-1 by John McGonigle

Whereas within the prototype pictures on the Oileán web site the wheels and bridges are fairly completely different in coloration from one another, within the manufacturing watch the colour match is sort of uniform, making the look extra harmonious to my eye and permitting us to give attention to the fascinating shapes and the distinction between the gold-colored working parts of the chronograph and the cluster of brushed-steel governing levers and column wheel.

Gold runs, metal controls: harmonious coloration fields of the Oileán HB-1 motion

And for those who haven’t observed it but, check out the Irish harp with its pretty bevels and sharp inside angles that serves because the centerpiece of the chronograph works.

Motion element with harp bridge, Oileán HB-1 by John McGonigle

In the event you can drag your eye away from the motion for only a second, you’ll discover the Celtic-inspired sample engraved into the rear bezel together with the Oileán designation and John McGonigle’s identify; this handwork is one other vital improve in my opinion from the the relief-etched rear bezel of the prototype seen on the Oileán web site.

Straight-on: rear view, Oileán HB-1 by John McGonigle with engraved rear bezel

I had nice enjoyable taking pictures the motion aspect of the Oileán; a lot in order that for as soon as I’ve extra pictures to indicate than phrases to say!

Another view: rear perspective, Oileán HB-1 by John McGonigle

Different cool touches

I discussed earlier the visible methods that McGonigle makes use of to make the motion appear absolutely proportional to the scale of the watch as seen from the entrance. The again seems to be balanced as properly; one purpose for that’s that, as proven within the picture beneath, the caseband really tapers inward between the entrance and rear bezels, permitting a smaller-diameter rear bezel for use.

Tapered caseband, Oileán HB-1 by John McGonigle

Different considerate touches are seen within the aspect view of the watch, together with tapered chronograph pushers, hollowed lugs, and a concave entrance bezel that barely slims the impression of thickness as seen from the aspect whereas retaining this daily-wear watch from changing into a scratch magnet.

Facet view, Oileán HB-1

Additionally making an look on the crown of the watch is a stylized Irish harp, tying the outside design to the bridge form within the motion – and in a remaining unifying contact, the harp image seems yet one more time on the assertively-styled clasp.

Substantial clasp of the Oileán with the model’s harp insignia

On the wrist and in the dead of night

With the sunshine tent work full, it was time to strap on the watch and head for the backyard to seize a number of pictures on the wrist.

The fast impression is of substance and, regardless of the variety of seen parts and number of calendar, time, and chronograph indications proven, appreciable readability.

On the wrist: Oileán by John McGonigle

I didn’t discover the beforehand talked about anti-reflective problem to current any challenges in any respect in real-world use, and had I not had the palms set for 10:10 I’m certain that I nonetheless would have discovered it easy to learn the time.

Facet view, John McGonigle’s Oileán

Seen from the aspect, the watch can appear a bit chunky, one tradeoff made to accommodate the deeply sloped outer date ring. By way of wearability, although, the titanium case retains the Oileán from feeling top-heavy to the wearer, and the substantial clasp supplies a safe anchor on the underside of the wrist.

Safe mooring: the Oileán HB-1 clasp in use

Placing the watch into use additionally gave me a chance to make use of the crown and pushers. The winding motion is sort of delicate feeling; actually nothing objectionable, however nothing just like the crisp cadence of a Datograph. The pusher really feel, nevertheless, could be very a lot to my style: the start-stop button has a easy, progressive motion with simply the correct quantity of resistance for me, and the return to zero snaps again with authority and a constructive click on.

In the event you’ve been finding out the photographs to date, you have got doubtless observed one of many main design decisions McGonigle made: omitting particular person working seconds and chronograph minutes markings on the subdials. I believed this would possibly hassle me, however the semi-instantaneous chronograph strikes clearly from one minute to the following, and in observe I discovered it straightforward to see at a look whether or not the chronograph minutes have been, as an example, pointing at 2 versus 3. As for the working seconds, on a chronograph I exploit these principally to ensure the watch is working when the chronograph isn’t in motion, so the absence of tiny tick marks for the person seconds isn’t a problem for me.

At nighttime: luminous view, Oileán by John McGonigle

Upon returning indoors, one remaining verify was to get out the UV flashlight and lightweight up the lume. The view didn’t disappoint, and the choice to light up all of the palms and the hour markers supplies, in my view, simply the correct stage of busy-ness to make the view nice.

Last ideas 

As a mix of fascinating styling, utilization and considerate modification of a traditional motion, an intriguing set of issues and shows, high-quality ending, and wearability the Oileán appeals to me fairly a bit. The truth that John McGonigle is each a wizard watchmaker and splendid man doesn’t damage in any respect, both – and along with his substantial observe document and the confirmed robustness of the Valjoux 88, a purchaser needn’t have any issues about reliability or longevity of this watch.

Couldn’t resist: yet one more perspective on the modified Valjoux Cal. 88

In case you are inclined to purchase one, you would possibly wish to act now as manufacturing is proscribed to eight examples per yr. To study extra or to make a purchase order inquiry, take a look at the Oileán web site at www.oilean.watch/the-watch

Parting shot: Oileán H-B1 by John McGonigle

www.oilean.watch/the-watch

Fast Info Oileán H-B1
Case: 40 x 14.2 mm, Grade 5 titanium with show again, water resistance 30 m
Dial: clear smoked sapphire crystal
Motion: hand-wound modified Valjoux 88 with triple calendar, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, energy reserve 40 hours
Capabilities: hours, minutes, small seconds; date, day, month, moon section; chronograph
Strap: leather-based with titanium pin buckle
Limitation: 8 items per yr
Value: €32,000 (excluding taxes)

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