What does Patek Philippe imply to you? Recently there was quite a lot of consideration paid to the wild hypothesis surrounding its metal sport watches, with some individuals going so far as to counsel that the model will turn into trapped into being the “Nautilus and Aquanaut firm.” For others, it’s an organization targeted totally on selling its watches as aspirational heirlooms to be held for future generations.
For me, Patek Philippe is a agency each conscious of the traditions of horology and targeted clearly by itself legacy. That is evident in its creation and ongoing curation of the Patek Philippe Museum, the deliberate however relentless enchancment within the mechanical options of its calibers, the continuing manufacturing of ultra-complicated watches and industry-leading chiming items, the dedication to restoration of classic watches, and the Superior Analysis packages incorporating novel approaches into limited-series timepieces.
That is Patek Philippe too: Reference 5089G-018 with wooden marquetry dial
After which there are the Uncommon Handcrafts: watches and clocks that show conventional arts, together with engraving, enameling, micro mosaics, and a favourite of mine: wooden marquetry.
I’ve briefly highlighted Patek Philippe’s Uncommon Handcrafts earlier than in my reviews on the 2019 Singapore Grand Exhibition and 2017 New York Grand Exhibition.
Seen in Singapore: Patek Philippe Reference 997/104J wooden marquetry pocket watch ‘Arowana fish and water lilies’
In the event you’ve been lucky sufficient to attend Baselworld in previous years and acquire admission to the inside of the Patek Philippe sales space, you may also have discovered your method to the rear of the show space to see the shows of Uncommon Handcrafts such because the Reference 992/139J “Roped Alpinists” pocket watch with its case again marquetry consisting of 222 tiny items of coloured wooden.
‘Roped Alpinists’ Reference 992/139J by Patek Philippe (picture courtesy @l951.1)
Seeing stunning works like these within their show circumstances is a deal with, however it’s even higher to deal with one in particular person. I not too long ago jumped on the probability to borrow and {photograph} a buddy’s Reference 5089G-018 created for Patek Philippe’s 175th Anniversary in 2014, that includes on its dial a recreation in wooden of a classic postcard of an “previous Lake Leman barque in Geneva harbor.”
Crusing away: Patek Philippe Reference 5089G-018
Marquetry and its use in watches
Marquetry, outlined as “inlaid work constituted of small items of variously coloured wooden or different supplies,” comes from the sixteenth-century French phrase marqueter (“to variegate”). Over the centuries it has primarily discovered its software in furnishings and associated objects; packed in storage someplace I’ve a beautiful Dunhill humidor embellished with wooden inlay within the model of a classic Partagás field.
Taking this craft and miniaturizing it to the dimensions of a watch dial is the area of a single man, Jérôme Boutteçon, who has labored his magic on behalf of Patek Philippe for properly over a decade. I used to be lucky to satisfy and discuss at size with Boutteçon on the 2019 Singapore Grand Exhibition and to see him at work sawing tiny items of wooden and piecing them collectively to create a dial-sized picture of a buck.
Marquetry artist Jérôme Boutteçon together with his foot-powered body noticed and a tray of accomplished picket items
It’s tough to think about the endurance – and the creativeness – required to transform a drawing or historic picture right into a schematic for wooden inlay after which to execute the superb handwork to carry it to fruition as a bodily object. Not surprisingly, whereas I’ve heard there’s one different practitioner of the artwork (a former apprentice of Boutteçon’s), it’s a uncommon talent and one properly appreciated by loyal Patek Philippe prospects who vie to purchase considered one of his creations.
Small wooden items for watch dial marquetry, with some displaying the newspaper backing used to lend stability throughout sawing
Patek Philippe 175th Anniversary Reference 5089G
To have fun its 175th Anniversary in 2014, Patek Philippe commissioned quite a lot of Uncommon Handcraft items stretching throughout the inventive crafts, together with 4 marquetry wristwatch references in restricted editions of 40 primarily based on photographs from early twentieth-century postcards of the Lake Geneva shore:
- 5089G-017: Previous Lac Leman barque and Château de Chillon
- 5089G-018: Previous Lac Leman barque in Geneva harbor
- 5089G-019: Previous Lac Leman barque with view of the Alps
- 5089G-020: Previous Lac Leman barque in Geneva harbor
My buddy’s piece is Reference 5089G-018 with the boat and the shadows of its sails on the water on the correct aspect and the Jet d’Eau (given the date of the postcard collection, that is the second incarnation of the Jet d’Eau put in in 1896) and its reflection on the left.
Out for a sail: Patek Philippe Reference 5089G-018
Zooming in for a better look, we see the main points of the boat and its sails, the marina and spouting water characteristic, and the buildings on the far shore of the lake.
Getting nearer: Reference 5089G-018 ‘Previous Lac Leman barque in Geneva harbor’
Lastly, if we get actually, actually shut as within the picture under, we are able to examine the main points of the shadow of the ship’s bow and of its ahead sail. I discover it fascinating that the artist has chosen simply the correct (and completely different) wooden colours for the 2 shadows, and the way the shapes of the darker wooden and the grain inside each bit mix to create an ideal phantasm of light ripples on the floor of the water, in flip harmonizing with the shapes of the shadow of the rear sail and the reflection of the Jet d’Eau that seem within the picture above.
Element view, sail shadow, dial of the Patek Philippe Reference 5089G-018
If at any time you get bored with trying out the superb particulars of the optical illusions and extremely superb matching of the tiny items right into a seamless mosaic, you possibly can at all times step again and think about the total scene framed by the broad bezel of the white gold Calatrava case.
Harmonious complete: Patek Philippe Reference 5089G-018
Greater than only a dial
Sure, it has an amazing dial, however it’s additionally a Patek Philippe watch, and an Anniversary version at that. As a part of the latter, it sports activities a hinged case again bearing an acceptable inscription.
Commemorative case again, Patek Philippe Reference 5089G-018
Inside, we discover Patek Philippe’s traditional ultra-thin Caliber 240 micro rotor computerized motion and a mirror-polished inside floor to the case again that enables us to take pleasure in a couple of reflections.
Inside view, Reference 5089G-018 together with Caliber 240 motion
For me, there are a number of facets to the “again aspect” design of Reference 5089G that present Patek Philippe’s customary thoughtfulness. First, the commemorative case again is flat and skinny relatively than curved and raised. Second, the case again hinge, as seen within the picture above, is built-in into the aspect of the case.
Lastly, Patek Philippe selected Caliber 240Q relatively than considered one of its thicker self-winding actions. The combination result’s a watch that’s impressively skinny regardless of the thickness of its dial and added strong again, presenting a glossy profile from the rear that makes it powerful to inform that the again truly flips open.
Are you able to see the hinge? Didn’t suppose so
Photographing Patek Philippe Reference 5089G
In the case of taking pictures Reference 50889G, there are principally solely two approaches that I discovered made any sense: images that present your entire Lac Leman picture from a minimum of semi-natural angles, and ones that zoom in to indicate particulars of the superb craft work.
I skirted the boundaries with a couple of photographs, just like the one under, that current the watch at an angle, however there are not one of the deep angle or uncommon positioning setups that I exploit with different watches. In the identical approach that one wouldn’t shoot the Mona Lisa on its aspect or from a low angle that dangers seeing up the girl’s nostrils, capturing a watch that incorporates a representational piece of artwork presents its personal limitations to a photographer – a minimum of to this one!
At an angle: contemplating Patek Philippe Reference 5089G-018
Parting ideas
I’m fairly envious of my buddy, and sooner or later I’d like to personal considered one of Patek Philippe’s Uncommon Handcrafts watches! For me the limitation, to the extent that there’s one, is that I’d actually have to like the picture portrayed by the engraver, enameller, or marquetry artist.
Particularly in terms of the wristwatches, the underlying piece is sort of easy: a flat-sided Calatrava case with broad, flat bezel. Appropriately sufficient, the time-telling is finished with two easy arms, so there’s not that a lot happening horologically, both. It’s all concerning the picture and the craft behind it, so I think that it might be some time earlier than I discover the precise piece that each speaks to me and that’s out there at a worth I’m in a position to pay.
That mentioned, should you see an instance of Reference 992/118J marquetry “Junks” pocket watch on the market, please name me immediately!
Object of need: Patek Philippe Reference 992/118J ‘Junks’ with wooden marquetry dial
For extra data on Patek Philippe’s Uncommon Handcrafts, please go to www.patek.com/en/assortment/rare-handcrafts.
Fast Info Patek Philippe Reference 5089G-018
Case: 38.6 mm, white gold with hinged case again and sapphire entrance and rear crystals; case again engraved with Patek Philippe 175th Anniversary notation
Dial: wooden marquetry dial containing greater than 160 items, depicting a view of a ship on Lake Geneva and the Jet d’Eau; picture primarily based on a pre-1904 postcard from the Musée du Léman in Nyon
Motion: computerized Caliber 240 with off-center gold micro rotor and Gyromax steadiness; 48-hour energy reserve; 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency
Features: hours, minutes
Limitation: 40 examples
Worth: late 2021 pre-owned asking costs for comparable items ca. $120,000
Manufacturing years: 2014-2016
You may additionally take pleasure in:
You Are There: Patek Philippe Watch Artwork Grand Exhibition 2019 In Singapore
You Are There: Patek Philippe (And Nearly Everybody Else) Comes To New York, A Collector’s View
Daybreak On The Lake: Celebrating Patek Philippe’s Grandiose a hundred and seventy fifth Anniversary With Artwork And Collaboration
Give Me 5! All 5 Of Patek Philippe’s Superior Analysis Restricted Editions
English 