Behind The Lens: The Extremely-Uncommon Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 – Reprise

One of many nice issues about watch accumulating is that nobody can let you know what to purchase. If you need a set of each model of American railroad watch made in 1913, nice. If, as in my case, you’d like an ample mixture of items from impartial watchmakers with some particular objects from main manufacturers and a few “enjoyable” items for spice, nobody can cease you.

There are, after all, some items that one would possibly prefer to have however merely can’t be discovered – or even when there is perhaps one on the market that doubtlessly is on the market, the worth is so expensive that it’s simply too powerful on the psyche to dump different treasured watches to purchase it. That’s when it’s good to have buddies with each the great style and good luck to personal “unobtanium” items like right this moment’s topic, Reference 5070J-013 from Patek Philippe.

Uncommon chook certainly: Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013

Origins: London, Saatchi, or Classic Assortment?

As most people who observe Patek Philippe are conscious, the model has lengthy been within the behavior of constructing distinctive watches for particular prospects, together with in current instances leisure luminaries comparable to Eric Clapton and Michael Ovitz, objects from whose collections of particular Patek Philippe fashions have been fixtures on the public sale scene for a short time now.

Extremely-limited Patek Philippe 5070J in yellow gold with brown dial

It was not till 2015, nonetheless, that Patek Philippe publicly issued a variety of small editions of beforehand discontinued references, every in beforehand unmade metallic/dial mixtures – simply in time for the landmark Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition on the Saatchi Gallery in London.

Because of blogger Patek5070,we now have an inventory of all the particular reference varieties that have been on show, which included a set of “London Particular Items,” a choice of Uncommon Handcraft objects (largely not on the market), and eventually within the “Napoleon Room” the small-lot re-editions as listed under, together with 4 5070 variations.

Napoleon Room items from the 2015 Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition in London

In solely 5 quick years, the story behind these “Napoleon Room” watches has turn out to be considerably obscured within the mists of time, and the great of us at Patek Philippe appear blissful to permit that to proceed. You’ll see a lot of claims that every of those watches was created in a set of solely 5 examples and bought as a part of the London Grand Exhibition. However we all know, for instance, that there are various greater than 5 of the salmon-dialed Reference 3940G-029 fashions on the market, a few of which have been allotted to retailers to promote (and not less than two of which have been purchased, new in sealed containers, on the Patek Philippe Geneva Salon by shut buddies of mine prior to now couple of years).

A little bit of thriller isn’t essentially a foul factor: Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013

I’ve additionally seen with my very own eyes prior to now few years brand-new examples of a few of the Napoleon Room references on the market by way of approved Patek Philippe retailers, and so so far as I do know it’s not potential to say what number of of every reference have been made and when – and the place they have been bought; in truth, with some maybe having been accessible even previous to the London Grand Exhibition.

After which there are different Patek Philippe Classic Assortment references made utilizing the identical discontinued-watch small-lot mannequin which have emerged for the reason that time of the London Grand Exhibition, together with my very personal Reference 3940P-027, which seems nowhere on that Napoleon Room listing.

Extra unobtanium: the writer’s Patek Philippe Reference 3940P-027 Classic Assortment

So, for the needs of readability, maybe it’s simply finest to confer with this 5070J reference as one of many Classic Assortment; however in the event you want Saatchi or London I’m not going to yell at you.

Sufficient historical past; how about that watch!

She’s a corker, isn’t she? It is a watch that may simply deliver yellow gold again into style single-handedly, and for me the mixture of the yellow case and sunburst-brushed brown dial is as attractive as it’s surprising.

Whereas I had my good friend’s look ahead to capturing, I spent a whole lot of time merely holding it at completely different angles to the sunshine and watching the intense space sweep across the dial.

Play of sunshine: brushed brown dial, Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013

I believe that the usage of all yellow gold for the palms and indices was additionally an impressed selection; whereas legibility suffers only a tiny bit in some gentle circumstances, you may at all times flip your wrist for a clearer view and the yellow-on-brown look is absolutely harmonious in my opinion, with the usage of white for the printed indications giving a little bit of welcome visible kick.

Yellow on brown on yellow, with a contact of white: Patek Philippe 5070J Classic Assortment

Nearer inspection of the dial reveals that this J model shares the up to date visible cues of the opposite London/Classic Assortment 5070 variants when in comparison with the standard-production 5070, together with a distinct font for the model brand, smaller numerals on the working seconds subdial, and in another way formed printed numerals for 1, 7, and a few of the 4s.

Dial particulars, Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-13

On the again facet, we’re greeted by the stunning Lémania-based Caliber CH 27-70 motion with its Geneva Seal. In contrast to the newer in-house Patek Philippe chronograph motion, we see some inside angles on the 27-70, and I’ll confess that I’m fairly taken with the radial brushing on the normal Patek column-wheel cap.

Patek Philippe Caliber CH 27-20

Whereas the vast rear bezel provides a touch that the motion is probably a bit small in diameter for the assertive 507x household case, general I like what I see on the rear of the watch – and with its considerably busy dial design, Patek Philippe has managed to make use of a motion of this dimension with out making the dial-side show look cross-eyed because of this.

Rhodium, metal, and gold: motion facet view, Patek Philippe 5070J

For comparability functions, I arrange some photographs of the 5070J subsequent to my Reference 5170P. Each have their vital deserves, however as you may see, the dimensions and framing of the 5170’s Caliber CH 29-535 PS place it far more entrance and heart than the marginally withdrawn place of the CH 27-70.

Facet by facet: motion views, Patek Philippe Reference 5070J (left) vs. Reference 5170P

Whereas I used to be at it, I pulled out my very own yellow gold Patek Philippe, the Reference 2526 “Gobbi Milano,” for a comparability shot. It is perhaps the brown dial making a little bit of an phantasm, however to my eye the yellow gold of the 5070 nearly appears to be like to have a little bit of a cinnamon tint. Phantasm or not, I believe that the 5070 stands up fairly effectively to its notable forebear.

Two eras: Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 and Reference 2526, each in yellow gold

And as soon as all the gentle tent work was accomplished, I did sneak the 5070J onto my wrist for a fast stroll into the again backyard to seize a wristshot.

On the wrist: Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013

Taking pictures the Patek Philippe Reference 5070J

To be sincere, I used to be anticipating this watch to be significantly more difficult to shoot than it turned out to be given its vast, polished bezel, darkish dial, and yellow palms. The bombé curves of the feuille palms helped so much in catching not less than some gentle from each angle I attempted. I additionally had enjoyable capturing some pictures from non-traditional angles and located to my nice shock that the considerably uniform tones of the dial didn’t confound my focus stacking software program and lead to a bunch of fuzzy stacking artifacts.

Low-angle view, Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013

In case you take a look at the picture above, you may see that there appears to be like to be a little bit of shiny lacquer on the brushed dial, which each provides some depth to the notion of the brushing and permits for some enticing reflections of the palms, indices, and printed markings.

As soon as I acquired a little bit of follow with positioning and lighting, issues progressed pretty easily; and I ought to point out that the proprietor did me an actual favor by presenting the watch to me in super-clean situation, saving all kinds of effort in cleansing earlier than capturing and retouching afterwards.

Out of the darkness: Caliber CH 27-70

The truth that the motion is recessed into that subject of gold bezel helps to deliver some actual depth to moody photographs in opposition to a darkish background as proven above, however the watch additionally lent itself effectively to some experimentation with a higher-key strategy, as proven under.

Catching the sunshine: Patek Philippe Caliber CH 27-70

Parting ideas

If I’ve one want for you, it’s that your mates are as beneficiant as mine! It was an actual deal with for me to have the prospect to deal with, analysis, {photograph}, and (very briefly) put on this magnificence, and you’ll ensure that as soon as our watch group’s custom of frequent in-person lunches will be resumed, I’ll be bugging my pal to deliver this one out of the vault for one more look.

I’ll have an interest to listen to your ideas on this piece and your experiences with “loaners” from buddies within the feedback under. Within the meantime, blissful sporting and blissful capturing!

Parting shot: ultra-rare Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013

Fast Information Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 “London” version
Case: 42 mm, yellow gold; sapphire crystal and case again
Dial and palms: brown with sunburst end; white tachymeter scale and markings; yellow gold utilized Arabic numerals; yellow gold feuille palms
Motion: manually wound Caliber CH 27-70; 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz frequency, Geneva Seal, energy reserve max. 60 hours
Capabilities: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds; 30-minute chronograph
Limitation: roughly 5 items
Unique retail value: £81,490 (approx. $127,000 in 2015)
Present value: unavailable
Manufacturing yr: approx. 2015

* This text was first printed on November 6, 2020 at Behind The Lens: The Extremely-Uncommon Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013.

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