Are you able to think about shopping for a watch bracelet after which looking for the precise watch to pair with it? Appears a bit far fetched, however that’s precisely what a superb pal of mine did a number of years in the past.
He’s been a collector of watches by A. Lange & Söhne for years, and over that point grew to become fascinated with the precious-metal bracelets made for the model by German jeweler Wellendorff. Not many had been produced and they aren’t simple to search out, however my pal picked up two fitted bracelets: one in platinum and the opposite in white gold.
The issue was, he didn’t have the right A. Lange & Söhne watches to suit both bracelet precisely! These fitted bracelets have curved finish hyperlinks designed to exactly match particular lug widths and case diameters, and he after all was disinclined to purchase a watch he didn’t completely love simply to match the size of his bracelets.
Enter the Boutique Version 1815 Chronograph in white gold: this restricted manufacturing watch launched in 2015 returned the look of this reference from the open visible of the second-generation 1815 Chronograph to a extra cluttered look just like that of the first-generation piece a lot to the delight of many die-hard Lange followers – together with my pal.
Because it seems he’s additionally a medical physician, so A. Lange & Söhne’s option to reintroduce a pulsometer scale across the perimeter of the dial was additionally very a lot to his liking.
Along with wanting cool when worn on the dear steel bracelet (that’s my wrist within the first picture above), the look of this watch has numerous different issues going for it visually.
I discover the silver dial significantly fascinating with its important surfaces exhibiting a refined pebbled look and the grooved subdials offering a pearlescent impact. And there’s the very tasty and closely utilized blue pigment of the numerals and different indices that in flip picks up the deep blue of the watch’s minor palms.
Seen on a darkish leather-based strap, the 1815 Chronograph Boutique Version is for me simply as placing as it’s on the gold bracelet and undoubtedly extra wearable for on a regular basis enterprise than the blingier bracelet model.
That’s a superb factor, as in 2017 A. Lange & Söhne took one other step in style with die-hard Lange followers by introducing one other white gold model of the 1815 Chronograph, this one with a mouth-watering all-black dial.
It simply goes to point out how particulars matter: first-generation black-dialed 1815s featured silver subdials as on the black-dialed Datograph and Double Cut up, and the swap from silver to black on this up to date model makes for a leaner, extra dramatic look.
Sooner than you may say “spring bars,” that white gold bracelet discovered its means onto the black-dialed piece, making for an influence watch if ever there was one.
I’ve learn that some of us assume the all-black therapy makes this watch a bit too “Patek Philippe-like” within the vein of Reference 5370P and significantly Reference 5170G. I’ll confess that I can see the purpose, however on the identical time the distinctive fonts used and design codes such because the three-dot markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 make this piece unmistakably Lange-like for me.
Whereas the black-dialed model clearly lacks the colour contrasts of the Boutique Version, it has its personal visible curiosity with the dial on 4 distinct layers (pulsometer, hour and minute ring, central dial, and subdials) and light-catching round grooves on the subdials themselves.
Round again of each watches it’s what we’ve come to anticipate from an A. Lange & Söhne chronograph: a tiny, finely detailed metropolis below glass that includes a wide selection of ending methods that invite the attention to linger whereas we function the pushers and watch the chronograph motion do its methods.
Taking pictures the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronographs
When you’d requested me earlier than I arrange the sunshine tent to shoot these two beauties, I’d have guessed that the black-dialed white-metal watch would give me matches and the Boutique Version with its largely matte-textured dial and clear colour contrasts can be simple.
Within the occasion, it turned out to be just about the alternative! Whereas the visible components together with the rhodium-plated gold palms on the Boutique Version had been fairly distinct visually, the dial itself tended to exhibit a confounding array of colour casts, from cyans and greens close to the perimeter of the dial to odd yellowish tones throughout the shadows that the primary palms throw on dial.
I corrected a few of this in post-processing to make the photographs look as very like the precise watch as potential, however on the identical time I didn’t wish to desaturate the photographs a lot that the refined colours which might be there vanish right into a seemingly white-on-platinum rendering.
Nearer photographs just like the one above had been considerably simpler to handle and supply a clearer impression of the creamy colour of the dial, sky-blue markings, and refined floor therapies.
Against this (actually and figuratively) the digicam (on this occasion the Hasselblad X1D) completely cherished the black/silver/white tones of the opposite watch.
Actually it helped that the dial indications are printed in white and never the diabolical-to-shoot polished white steel indices of another watches. However different components of the 1815 Chronograph such because the bombé (domed) shapes of the palms and the light-catching transitions between the completely different vertical layers of the dial helped as properly.
And that bracelet! It turned out that though its floor is extremely polished, the pronounced curves and alternating flat surfaces of the person hyperlinks assist to interrupt the view of the bracelet into gentle and darkish sectors whereas preserving these nasty, overly shiny, blown-out components at bay.
So, which one for you? I’ll have an interest to listen to your ideas within the feedback part on the relative deserves of those two variations of a real A. Lange & Söhne basic and naturally your views on how the bracelet fits them: final sport or hot-weather watch or excessive?
For extra on the 1815 Chronograph line please go to www.alange-soehne.com/en/timepieces/1815-chronograph.
Fast Information A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph
Reference numbers: 414.026 (Boutique Version) and 414.028 (black dial pulsometer model)
Case: 39.5 x 11 mm; white gold
Dial: strong silver; Boutique Version with rhodium-plated gold and blued metal palms and blue printed indices on silvered background; pulsometer model with rhodium-plated gold palms and white printed indices on black
Motion: manually wound Caliber L951.5 with free-sprung steadiness; a number of jewels set in gold chatons; 60-hour energy reserve; frequency 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz
Features: hours, minutes, hacking subsidiary seconds; 30-minute flyback chronograph with instantaneously leaping minutes
Value: €50,000 together with German VAT
Manufacturing years: 2015 onward (Boutique Version); 2017 onward (black dial pulsometer)
Limitation: Boutique Version restricted manufacturing (however not restricted version) and accessible solely by way of A. Lange & Söhne boutiques; pulsometer model not restricted
*This text was first printed on March 4, 2019 at Behind The Lens: Two 1815 Chronographs From A. Lange & Söhne.