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Designed in France and meticulously crafted in Switzerland, Bohen watches are constructed on a novel imaginative and prescient of what can occur while you design a timepiece constructed for excessive environments with a distinctly French design language however crafted with the precision, engineering, and craft for which one of the best maisons within the Swiss watch business are identified. Constructing on the success of its first launch, the Mille Mer, Bohen is introducing a brand new diver to the lineup — the StarDiver. Echoing the design cues and immaculate ending that outlined the Mille Mer, the StarDiver gives the identical 1000m of water resistance however in a smaller case — and that includes loads of small particulars that reveal its skilled intentions.
Bohen is a small, family-run enterprise that was began by Blaise-Dominique Giuliani. After spending many years engaged on design inside the luxurious business, Blaise-Dominique determined to department out on his personal, beginning a watch model that was unconstrained by advertising and marketing, manufacturing prices, or traits. Not beholden to shareholders or traders, and free from company shackles, he was capable of focus solely on bringing his watchmaking imaginative and prescient to life.
If you’ve labored within the watch business so long as Blaise-Dominique, you see the place corners could be minimize, the place manufacturers sacrifice high quality for the sake of a better markup. That strategy is antithetical to what Blaise-Dominique is attempting to do with Bohen. As a substitute, he’s harnessing his deep data of the Swiss watch business to faucet one of the best producers and finest artisans to deliver his imaginative and prescient to life, whatever the price. After all, high quality doesn’t come low-cost, however Bohen places ardour earlier than revenue, wanting to make sure the watches make it into the arms of consumers at an inexpensive worth. Whereas it’s not unusual to see margins eight to 10 occasions above price from many manufacturers, the StarDiver’s markup is lower than twice the manufacturing price. In different phrases, that is removed from a profit-driven enterprise.
Blaise-Dominique describes his strategy to design and pricing,: “As I wish to say, our designs don’t take traits under consideration. My designs are assertive, and even when our margin is lower than most, some individuals will say that we’re costly. High quality has a weight, a facet, and it additionally has a worth. There isn’t a miracle.” He offers two examples: One gram of rhodium at present prices 360 Euros, and Bohen’s Swiss-Made motion — 100% made in Jura, regulated at 4s/day — is totally rhodium-plated, with Côtes de Genève and pearled bridges. One other putting instance is that Bohen’s watchband prices the identical manufacturing worth for some complete Swiss-Made watches.
Bohen’s preliminary launch, the Mille Mer, is nothing if not daring. Housed in an angular 43mm case and that includes a bullhead crown, helium escape valve, patented date magnifier design, and a semi-integrated ladder bracelet, the Mille Mer is unapologetically aggressive and singular in its design. With the StarDiver, you’ll discover loads of acquainted design cues, from the lug design to the outstanding Arabic numerals at 6 and 9 o’clock, however with a design that’s clearly meant for skilled purposes. If the Mille Mer was Bohen’s tackle deep divers just like the Rolex Deep Sea or Omega Planet Ocean Extremely Deep, the Star Diver is extra akin to skilled dive watches finished their very own means, just like the Omega Ploprof.
The Bohen StarDiver was created with the assistance {of professional} advisors — those that work in perilous circumstances the world over and deep beneath the ocean. Even in the event you’re not exploring the inky black depths of our underwater realm, the StarDiver was designed to feel and appear simply as succesful high facet, with the identical impeccable artisanship Bohen’s clients have come to count on. As Blaise-Dominique places it, “The StarDiver has been designed to face up to the powerful remedy that a few of our ambassadors, offshore divers, and fight swimmers will inflict on the watch. However we additionally deal with our clients who’re on the lookout for distinctive watches. We share the identical ardour for lovely items with spectacular finishes.”
The case of the brand new StarDiver measures in at 41mm in diameter, 48mm lug-to-lug, and 14.8mm in peak (together with the sapphire crystal). When mixed with the destro crown, situated between 40 and 45 minutes, and the light-weight and hypoallergenic Grade 5 titanium caseback, the watch is certain to sit down comfortably on a variety of wrist sizes, whereas nonetheless guaranteeing loads of wrist presence. Balancing the crown is an automated helium escape valve situated at 50 minutes. Matching the accents on the dial, the helium escape valve is topped with brilliant orange. Having the crown and helium escape valve positioned on the left facet of the case prevents the crown from digging into the wrist, whereas additionally permitting divers to put on a dive pc within the first place, with the StarDiver as a security counter.
1000m of water resistance is actually overkill, contemplating that’s over 3 times the depth of the deepest scuba dive on file, however Bohen is dedicated to making sure robustness, together with a excessive security margin. That stated, standing as much as excessive stress is simply a part of the equation — legibility at depth is simply as necessary. To that finish, the StarDiver is supplied with a deeply recessed dial that, when coupled with the 4mm sapphire crystal, produces a magnifying impact as soon as submerged. The handset can be outsized, with a brilliant orange minutes hand and tip of the seconds hand, all painted by hand, one other element that provides as much as make the StarDiver better than the sum of its elements.
The handset and the markers alongside the sloping chapter ring are all coated in Bohen’s proprietary Hyper-Lume — a particularly luminous materials developed with Tremendous-LumiNova that simply outperforms its rivals. Reverse the outsized 9 o’clock numeral is a three-date aperture at 3 o’clock. As at all times, there’s a technique to Bohen’s insanity. Should you’ve ever had hassle studying the date in your watch, you’re not alone. It takes time to your mind to course of small writing, however when a quantity is positioned in the course of the sequence, your mind perceives a picture slightly than writing, permitting you to course of the knowledge extra rapidly. It’s a intelligent and efficient trick.
With the bracelet on the StarDiver, Bohen went above and past, creating an progressive adjustable and micro-adjustable watch bracelet that’s totally tool-free. Every hyperlink options its personal fast launch mechanism, permitting you to rapidly measurement the band from 15.1 to 22.3cm in circumference. Due to the tool-free micro-adjust on the clasp, you possibly can hone within the match right down to the millimeter. In one other distinctive contact, the bracelet options an excessive taper from 24mm right down to 16mm, with the primary central hyperlinks executed in a V form, one thing you’re not more likely to discover elsewhere given the challenges in machining and meeting. As you possibly can think about, the fee to supply this bracelet was vital. Should you’re heading out on the water and would favor a rubber strap, Bohen has additionally produced two customized silicone straps, in each black and orange.
Powering the StarDiver is a Soprod automated motion. With 100% of the parts manufactured in Jura, Switerzland, the motion is as Swiss because it will get. Along with beating at 28.8kbph and internet hosting an influence reserve of 42 hours, Bohen finishes the motion with rhodium coating, pearled bridges, and Côtes de Genève on the rotor. As well as, the motion is antimagnetic because of an inside antimagnetic cage and options Incabloc shock safety and a Glucydur steadiness. The motion can be adjusted to +/- 4 seconds/day in 5 positions.
Bohen goes past simply testing and adjusting its motion in guaranteeing that their watches are prepared to your wrist. Quite than random high quality testing of watches, Bohen examines every watch that goes out the door, testing it for shocks, vibration, temperature, humidity, traction, torsion, acceleration, precision, and water resistance as much as 1000m.
The Bohen StarDiver is accessible now for buy at an preliminary launch worth of €2,990 (excluding taxes), with supply slated for September 2023. As well as, patrons buying at this preliminary launch will obtain a particular field with each the black and orange silicone straps. Solely 300 items will probably be produced in 2023, which means portions are extraordinarily restricted. To buy a StarDiver and be taught extra about Bohen Watches, please go to the model’s web site.
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