After I first received into watches within the late Nineteen Nineties, Breguet was one of many manufacturers that captivated me proper from the start. Its basic appears to be like appeared unique, reminding me of individuals touring the world earlier than the invention of the airplane, packing their belongings in steamer trunks and staying in grand motels.
Breguet Marine Hora Mundi Ref. 5557 for 2022
One Breguet stood out to me greater than others, and that was the Hora Mundi. The watch appeared implausible, and its title made it even higher: hora mundi is Latin for “world time.” Other than the date, this was the one complication on Reference 3700, the watch that Breguet offered as Hora Mundi simply earlier than the flip of the millennium.
Breguet Hora Mundi Reference 3700 (picture courtesy Christie’s)
The Hora Mundi was a part of the Marine assortment, as it’s at this time, which meant that it was given a barely sporty contact with a beefier crown flanked by crown guards. These had been totally different days: Reference 3700 measured solely 38 mm in diameter and was the top of basic Breguet fashion. It was a basic worldtimer with an outer ring that includes the names of the totally different cities surrounding a hoop marking the 24 hours of the day.
Breguet Marine Hora Mundi at this time
It’s fascinating that for such a basic model, Breguet opted for revolution as an alternative of evolution when it got here to its Marine assortment. Immediately it is among the sportiest Breguet fashions you should buy other than its aviation chronographs.
Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557 in pink gold
Whereas the mannequin remains to be referred to as Hora Mundi, the just lately launched Reference 5557 is strictly talking not a worldtimer however a complicated GMT watch. It was initially launched in 2011 as Reference 5717 within the Classique assortment with 4 totally different patents defending the motion expertise. The fantastic thing about this watch is that Breguet made one thing very advanced look simple, with the principle aim being providing comfort and ease of use.
Breguet Hora Mundi Reference 5717
Reference 5557 has what Breguet calls an instant-change dual-time show, which permits the person to pick out two totally different time zones – native and residential time, for instance – with the crown and the pusher at 8 o’clock.
As soon as set, urgent the pusher switches between the 2 time zones. Not solely do the fingers change immediately, however the day and night time indicator and even the date regulate together with them in a flash. That is as spectacular as it’s handy and the results of a intelligent system of cams and a differential.
It’s received the look
As spectacular as the brand new Marine Hora Mundi is from a technical perspective, Breguet additionally upped its sport when it got here to the appears to be like of this new variation. The case is now in step with that of the remainder of the Marine assortment, which I think about excellent news.
Because the introduction of this era, I’ve been a fan of the extra technical method to Breguet’s basic design language. The intelligent design of the lugs ensures that the watch could be very snug to put on regardless whether or not the wearer has opted for a bracelet, rubber strap, or leather-based strap. That is additionally essential as a result of with a diameter of 43.9 mm this Breguet isn’t any shrinking violet. The beneficiant measurement permits the model to play with layers and create probably the most beautiful dials presently accessible.
Dial of the Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557
The dial base is shaped by a gold clean with a wave sample in blue guilloché with continental outlines on prime. Breguet positioned a sapphire crystal disk over this adorned with consultant traces of latitude and longitude. These cleverly merge the previous with the long run because the meridians had been additionally current on the Marine Hora Mundi Reference 3700 from the Nineteen Nineties, whereas the format of the continents was a distinguished function on the Classique Hora Mundi Reference 5717.
Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557 in pink gold
On the latter, you needed to choose your continent, whereas with Reference 5557 you get your entire world, one thing that should make life a bit bit less complicated for the craftspeople at Breguet as they don’t should make and inventory numerous dial variations.
However Breguet was not but performed with the dial: Roman numerals full of Tremendous-LumiNova are positioned on prime of the sapphire crystal disk. Extra depth is supplied by the home windows for the reference metropolis and the date, each proven by disk.
The day/night time indicator additionally deserves a particular point out as each the solar and the moon are hammered by hand in yellow and white gold respectively. This would possibly appear to be a element, however they add an incredible quantity of sophistication to the timepiece.
Whereas it is a utterly totally different watch, it brings me again to the late Nineteen Nineties because it provides me the identical feeling of pleasure. Its appears to be like stay pleasantly unique but additionally nonetheless seize that timeless sense of sophistication for which Breguet appears to carry the patent.
Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557 in white gold
For extra info, please go to www.breguet.com/breguet/landings/hora-mundi-5557.
Fast Details Breguet Marine Hora Mundi Reference 5557
Case: 43.9 x 13.8 mm, white or pink gold, 100 meters water resistance
Motion: automated Caliber 77F/1, 55-hour energy reserve; lever escapement with silicon pallet fork and steadiness spring, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Capabilities: hours, minutes, seconds; date, twin time zone, alarm, day/night time indicator
Worth: CHF 63,200 on strap; CHF 82,700 on bracelet
* This text was first printed 19 April 2022 at Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557: On the spot-Change Time Traveler Now Has One Of Its Finest Dials
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