Collector’s Sequence – watchfoodwithme’s Daniel Roth Papillon Tenth Anniversary

An American-based watch collector, Sagar, a.okay.a @watchfoodwithme on Instagram, works in Regulatory Affairs for Medical Units. He is likely to be solely 31 years outdated, however should you have a look at his feed on social media, scrolling via his assortment of watches, you’ll see that he already is sort of a seasoned horology fanatic. And he clearly has a factor for uncommon watches and hues. From his residence base in Minneapolis, USA, he explains why his Daniel Roth Papillon 10^th Anniversary Mannequin, which is proscribed to 110 items, is one in all his most coveted items. 

Frank Geelen, MONOCHROME – Your Daniel Roth Papillon is superior. When did you uncover Daniel Roth watches?

Sagar, @watchfoodwithme – It was @Orangedial17 a.okay.a Wayne’s Instagram deal with, the place I found this model Daniel Roth in late 2020. He had a ravishing salmon dial chronograph after which I began studying concerning the model and stumbled upon Frank’s Daniel Roth small seconds with a salmon dial on a MONOCHROME article. Belief me, I attempted to seek out it in every single place, however I might solely handle to get the Daniel Roth salmon dial chronograph.

Why do you suppose Daniel Roth is so particular? 

I’m at all times on the lookout for a watch that’s distinctive and never too mainstream. The case form of Daniel Roth caught my consideration. This case form is also known as ellipsocurvex, however apparently, additionally it is often called stadium form or discorectangle form. Moreover, the guilloché Clous de Paris hand-finished dials with Roman numerals are the icing on the cake. Basically, Daniel Roth watches are made rather well, they usually simply ooze high quality. It’s simply not any common wristwatch!

That’s an understatement!

Certainly. And the Daniel Roth Papillon is my favourite of all of the fashions for a lot of causes. The first motive is that it has a leaping hour complication. For me, leaping hour and minute repeater issues are the epitome of artwork in your wrist. I really like these two issues normally. Secondly, the dial has a Clous de Paris guilloché which is hand-finished. The dial is effectively balanced with the model identify on both aspect of the dial. Additionally, should you look intently, the blued metal minute markers complement effectively with the ruthenium and light-weight gray shades on the dial. And you then add the distinction of the white gold case – oh la la bellissimo! You actually can not go fallacious with this mannequin. It’s all within the particulars should you look intently.

Since when has it been a watch you desired to own?

Since I noticed Keet’s (@ialienam) Daniel Roth Papillon 10^th anniversary mannequin on Instagram, I began my hunt for the Papillon. I really feel so embarrassed about asking him so many occasions if he would promote it to me someday. He nonetheless owns it, lol, and to be sincere, this explicit mannequin hardly ever comes up on the market. I’ve been pestering many collectors to promote theirs, however they by no means promote.

But, you succeeded in getting one…

Sure, I not too long ago purchased this from a seller who bought it straight from the retailer who saved it within the vault for greater than 20 years. It was not owned by anybody earlier than and even used. It’s believed that the shop by no means bought it to anybody and simply needed to maintain it within the secure and promote it when the demand was excessive.

However how did you get in contact with him?

I bought in contact with that seller on Instagram, and that’s how I landed my Daniel Roth Papillon. Imagine me, I attempted asking each watch collector on Instagram in the event that they wish to promote their Daniel Roth Papillon to me, however nobody needed to promote. So, the one possibility I had was to go this route as these hardly ever come on sale.

Does the Papillon get a number of air time?

I personal a rose gold Papillon, so I normally put on that on particular events, like when I’m in an important assembly or at a flowery restaurant. I’ve not worn this white gold one in any respect however simply wore it to take some pics for this interview and put it again (chuckles).

Why not put on it? Do you like the one you had extra?

I can be sincere – It’s in such nice situation that I wish to preserve it as is, within the situation it got here in. Since I personal each rose gold and white gold Papillons, it offers me an possibility to simply put on one. If I didn’t have the rose gold Papillon, I might for positive put on the white gold extra typically.

Have others seen it, although?

Not an awesome many, however I at all times get compliments on my rose gold Papillon mannequin as a result of it’s distinctive. You don’t see a watch like that on daily basis. Even at watch occasions, it’s a heart of attraction for collectors who personal some well-known manufacturers. I had one watchmaker who occurred to see this on my wrist once I went to him for a job on one other watch, and he requested me to check out what I used to be sporting. He was amazed and stated this was the very best dial he had ever seen – he’s a really competent watchmaker who repairs very sophisticated items from all the posh manufacturers for reference. 

Folks at all times suppose that the hour window on this mannequin is a date window for some motive. As soon as a pal informed me, ‘Hey, it’s not the Tenth at present,’ and I used to be like, ‘I do know, it simply signifies the ten^th hour, not the ten^th of the month.’ This sparks their curiosity, after which they attempt to study extra about how this watch features. Let’s be sincere, us watch people could find out about these watches, however to a layperson, they may say, ‘oh wow, it appears cool’! So I feel this mannequin is a good dialog starter!

My associates are principally into different luxurious manufacturers, they usually at all times ask me what I see on this model. I at all times inform them you want to personal one, after which you’ll understand what a magnificence that is. They do recognize this model as effectively, and a few have even thought-about shopping for different fashions of this model and are fairly pleased with theirs.  

Have you ever satisfied them but?

Sure, a few of them have purchased different Daniel Roth fashions and are in love up to now. Some haven’t as a result of Daniel Roth watches are costly, and it takes a really seasoned collector to contemplate an unconventional watch. I nonetheless recall a seller who was hesitant about this model however now loves it a lot that he sells Pateks and APs for a dwelling however needs so as to add Daniel Roth watches to his private assortment. That is after he took a detailed have a look at the Daniel Roth watch in particular person with a loupe to match a Patek Philippe and Daniel Roth watch. He was shocked {that a} watch like Daniel Roth would have a ending on par with the likes of Patek Philippe.

Have you learnt the present market worth of the watch?

Sure, I do know the present market worth of this mannequin, as I’ve been monitoring this mannequin for some time now. This explicit mannequin in rose gold was bought for USD 80k firstly of February 2022 in a non-public deal. This can be a verified buy. Many of the offers on the early fashions occur privately and are hardly ever made public. Another seller has already began quoting USD 90k for this mannequin. I’ll say that I paid rather less than at present’s present market worth i.e. 80K (as of Feb 2022). However I’ll say that it didn’t come low-cost: I needed to pay a premium, and the worth is simply going up. 

I got here throughout this mannequin at X value sooner or later in 2020, I felt it is likely to be too excessive, so I assumed I might discover it cheaper if I waited longer. Then the following time it got here on sale at Y value (which was, in fact, greater than X), I nonetheless thought it was excessive, and perhaps I ought to wait somewhat longer. Then ACM posted at Z value (greater than Y value this time), and I used to be like, ‘I feel I could want to just accept the fact and pay premium’. I informed myself if I don’t get this now, I’ll solely be paying extra each time I go it on. I bought this mannequin as a result of I actually appreciated it and whenever you like one thing and if it’s uncommon and restricted, you actually haven’t any selection however to just accept the market fee and pay the premium. Each time this mannequin has modified palms, it has solely gone up. There’s a motive as a result of there are solely 110 items in rose gold, 110 items in white gold and 30 in platinum. 

Secondly, Daniel Roth designed this mannequin himself, so the demand is sky-high. It is among the solely 2,500-3,250 items Daniel Roth was actively concerned in designing throughout his tenure beneath his model. This can be a very low manufacturing quantity which accounts for approx. 400-500 items a yr. For example, F.P. Journe makes approx. 800 items a yr. It is rather like FP Journe you understand; no matter has touched his palms or gone via his QC has become gold now and is getting bought for a excessive premium. Nowadays collectors need one thing instantly related to the grasp watchmakers themselves. It’s estimated that this mannequin could contact USD 100K quickly with different early DR fashions, one in all which has already crossed USD 180K for a DR Tourbillon that was bought at an public sale on Loupethis.com not way back. I feel lastly collectors have began recognizing the Daniel Roth model and his work. It was lengthy overdue, in my sincere opinion. I’ll promote this white gold if I get the suitable supply primarily based on the present market. Nevertheless, I’ll preserve not less than one Papillon for myself as I feel it’s a distinctive watch, and I really like the complication.

How would you describe your watch assortment up to now?

I feel I’ve managed to do effectively with the place my assortment is for the time being. In some unspecified time in the future, I had like 5-6 salmon dial watches in my assortment, they usually all had been tremendous uncommon. I solely have one salmon dial now that I’ll by no means promote for sentimental causes, i.e. a Seiko Sarb037 salmon dial. My assortment is now some Swiss-made and Japanese-made watches from revered manufacturers, and relating to some distinctive watches, I do personal a Roger Dubuis Sympathie and Daniel Roth, in fact. 

Are there any extra watches you wish to purchase?

I might actually need to purchase an Audemars Piguet 15450 with a blue dial and an F.P. Journe Octa Lune with a salmon dial and platinum case. I’ve been on the waitlist for AP blue for nearly two years, and I’m nonetheless ready for my stars to align. Relating to the F.P. Journe, I used to be informed that I can be thought-about for 2023 so let’s hope I can get these grails quickly.

Which manufacturers do you suppose are doing fascinating work on the market?

Of late, I feel AP is doing rather well with their designs. Additionally, some Indie manufacturers like F.P. Journe, Grönefeld, and Akrivia are doing implausible work. I see an increase of independents during the last couple of years, and I imagine that the Indie manufacturers are steadily taking on some market share from the mainstream manufacturers, primarily because of the lack of availability of fascinating fashions from Rolex, AP and PP.

Are you able to give tricks to different collectors who need the watch you possess?

My solely recommendation for different collectors is to maintain wanting and never quit on this watch. If I used to be capable of purchase this piece, then I feel in addition they can purchase this watch. At occasions, all you want is endurance. Relating to the place they will discover this piece, they may ask current collectors on Instagram or wait to see if ACollectedMan sells his sometime, or perhaps at an public sale home. There’s actually no different option to get this mannequin in addition to these choices, as this mannequin won’t ever be produced once more. It’s a gem! As a reference, Daniel Roth makes 1-2 watches beneath his personal model Jean Daniel Nicolas lately.

Plus, this mannequin can simply be repaired or serviced by Bulgari if wanted in future. Some other competent watchmaker must also have the ability to restore this watch should you face any points sooner or later. 

Do you have got normal ideas for newcomers within the watch gathering scene?

My normal tip for brand new collectors is to purchase what you want and cease worrying about what others say about your watch. You may be completely satisfied. On the finish of the day, it’s your cash, and also you get to decide on the way you spend it on watches. There are some nice instructional movies on YouTube about watches normally, and one can study lots about watches via these channels. One other method is to affix an area Redbar group. This fashion, they will meet different collectors of their metropolis and study concerning the manufacturers they gather. At occasions, reside interplay with collectors offers you a number of info as they’re actually educated, and everyone seems to be so passionate concerning the watches they personal; it’s at all times wonderful. When you be part of an area watch group or membership in your metropolis, the following factor you understand, you can be sitting with 20 watches in your assortment, lol.

Are you in contact with different collectors?

Sure, I really like connecting with watch collectors on Instagram. I’ve created a WhatsApp group with James (@journehutong on Instagram) for current DR collectors. I’ve fashioned some very significant relationships with collectors over the previous few years, a lot in order that they take my suggestions if they need to soar on a selected watch and what I take into consideration their potential buy. That makes me really feel very honored that somebody would search my recommendation of their watch buy. I’m at all times up for drinks or dinner with the collectors I’ve talked to on Instagram and I at all times search for alternatives to assist anybody or information them when they’re on the lookout for a watch primarily based on their finances. I strive my stage finest to remain in contact with the watch collectors as there’s a lot to study on this pastime, and it’s by no means sufficient. There’s at all times somebody on the market who’s doing a little nice work on watches, and also you study them someday.