I’ve an extended record of worries. In that record, “COSRX discontinuing their Superior Snail 96 Mucin Energy Essence and Superior Snail 92 All In One Cream” falls someplace in between “by no means attending to pet one other bunny once more” and “working out of bathroom paper throughout a bathroom paper scarcity”: it wouldn’t be the tip of the world, however could be fairly horrible. And it is a priority. Merchandise get discontinued on a regular basis. Even merchandise a few of us passionately love. Even merchandise a few of us contemplate holy grails.
So think about my fear when COSRX first introduced the brand new Superior Snail Radiance Twin Essence. On paper, it appeared prefer it could possibly be an improve from the OG Snail 96 Mucin Energy Essence. Snails, now with added brightening! However upgrades are a crapshoot as a result of change doesn’t at all times imply enchancment. Additionally, upgrades usually foreshadow the dying of the unique product. Which I don’t wish to occur.
The product featured on this put up was offered for overview by COSRX. Affiliate hyperlinks, which permit me to earn a small fee on purchases made utilizing the hyperlinks, are marked with an asterisk(*).
I accepted my bottle of the Superior Snail Radiance Twin Essence with blended emotions. What if it isn’t as nice because the Snail 96 they usually take the Snail 96 away? What is going to my face do then?! However what whether it is as nice? What if it’s larger? Is that even attainable?
Just one method to discover out.
Objective: COSRX Superior Snail Radiance Twin Essence claims to hydrate, plump, and brighten pores and skin.
Finest fitted to: All pores and skin sorts.
Don’t use if: Your pores and skin reacts to snail mucin, niacinamide, or the rest within the substances record.
When and the best way to use: Dispense your required quantity of product into palm. I discover 2 pumps excellent for overlaying face, neck, and Higher Tiddy Area; regulate in keeping with your preferences. Rub palms collectively to combine, then apply wherever you need. I prefer to take all of it the best way over my eyelids, as a result of as we all know, I really like me some snail round my eyes. Can be utilized each morning and night time or simply as soon as per day.
COSRX Superior Snail Radiance Twin Essence Elements: Snail secretion filtrate, butylene glycol, niacinamide, 1,2-hexanediol, betaine, panthenol, water, glycerin, limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, allantoin, carbomer, macadamia ternifolia seed oil, sodium polyacrylate, sodium hyaluronate, inulin lauryl carbamate, arginine, argania spinosa kernel oil, xanthan gum, sodium surfactin, ethylhexylglycerin, glutathione
Notable substances: Whereas the product is introduced and packaged as two separate essences, the substances record is introduced as one. Whereas this makes it tough to work out which substances are through which aspect, it finally doesn’t actually matter, since they get blended collectively upon software anyway.
(I do have my theories. I assume the clear aspect incorporates the snail secretion filtrate and just some or just a bit little bit of among the different listed substances, whereas the milky aspect incorporates some snail, together with the niacinamide and nearly all of the opposite substances. Once more, it doesn’t actually matter. I’m completely content material treating the “twin” essence as a single formulation.)
Based on the model, the Radiance Twin Essence incorporates 74.3% of “Triple Snail Advanced,” which mixes their common snail mucin together with black and gold snail mucins. Totally different species of snails could produce mucin with barely completely different chemical make-up. I’m uncertain that this may produce markedly completely different results than the straightforward “snail secretion filtrate” used within the Snail 96 Mucin Energy Essence, nonetheless–and I don’t see a necessity for various results, no less than on the subject of the snail portion of the product.
The place I do see a necessity for various results is within the inclusion of niacinamide and glutathione. Not like the unique Snail 96, the Radiance Twin Essence is marketed as a multipurpose product, combining the smoothing, moisturizing, and therapeutic properties of snail mucin with the spot-lightening, tone-brightening skills of our trusty previous good friend niacinamide. It additionally incorporates a contact of glutathione, one other promising brightening ingredient with some analysis to help its topical use as as depigmenting agent. (Glutathione dietary supplements and even injections are additionally a factor, however whereas I’m on the fence concerning the dietary supplements, I’m 100% in opposition to IV glutathione. Or IV something for beauty functions.)
The glutathione is all the best way on the backside of the substances record, so we gained’t give it an excessive amount of weight. Alternatively, COSRX formulated the Radiance Twin Essence with 5% niacinamide, and that’s notable. The research that reveal niacinamide’s effectiveness at lightening hyperpigmentation sometimes use the ingredient in concentrations of 4-5%, which is why I contemplate 4-5% the usual for a niacinamide product. 5% within the Radiance Twin Essence is superb information.
The Radiance Twin Essence additionally incorporates a number of plant oils. At their place in the midst of the substances record, they’re more likely to be current solely in very small quantities, however could assist to contribute extra emollient properties to the product.
Let’s learn how all of it comes collectively!
If you happen to’ve been studying my opinions and rants about skincare for lengthy sufficient, you may need picked up on the truth that I typically don’t love multipurpose merchandise. One of many key causes I fell in love with Okay-beauty was the huge number of very focused, specialised merchandise obtainable to mix right into a routine completely curated for my wants and preferences. Multipurpose merchandise that declare to do plenty of issues and find yourself doing none of them properly aren’t my factor.
With snail specifically, I’ve developed a robust desire for the only, snailiest snail merchandise obtainable. In different phrases, the COSRX Snail 96. I began my snail journey utilizing merchandise just like the Radiance Twin Essence–brightening substances in a snail base–however have discovered myself constantly happier layering a separate brightening product with the Snail 96.
Then once more, COSRX delivers way more winners for my pores and skin than losers, so I can’t low cost the product simply because it jogs my memory, on paper, of different merchandise I didn’t love as a lot.
First issues first: the twin chamber pump packaging.
I’ve tried a number of different merchandise that are available this kind of packaging earlier than and located that almost all twin chamber pumps don’t work very properly. The pump mechanism is commonly unbalanced, main to at least one aspect getting used up means sooner than the opposite and the product having completely different ingredient proportions than supposed.
The twin pump mechanism on the Radiance Twin Essence is an exception. It constantly dispenses a good quantity of product, as you may see from the truth that the amount of product left in every chamber continues to be roughly equal even after a pair months of use. Whether or not there’s any actual level to the twin chambers is a wholly completely different query.
Twin chamber pump bottles value extra for manufacturers than common previous pump bottles. When manufacturers use them, they sometimes market them with claims that separating elements of the product retains them at optimum efficacy, which suggests that among the substances are most potent when first mixed and/or could start to degrade shortly upon contact with different substances. (Generally that is legitimate, typically not.)
Wanting again by way of the COSRX Instagram account, I don’t see any specific claims about needing to separate sure substances from others. One in all their preliminary launch posts does say that the twin chamber pump bottle gives “optimum supply of essences at superb concentrations for optimum impact” and that it “immediately prompts essences to focus on a number of skincare issues directly,” which is fairly obscure. With all else being equal, having all the pieces blended right into a single essence ought to nonetheless ship the identical concentrations of the identical substances, evenly distributed all through. As for the concept of on the spot activation, my traditional expectation of skincare is that making use of it to pores and skin after all causes the substances to have the ability to goal my skincare issues. They will’t goal my pores and skin issues till they make contact with my face. So I could be lacking one thing right here, however I don’t see any particular purpose these specific essences have to be separated till software.
That’s plenty of phrases to say I really feel like the twin chamber packaging is extra of a enjoyable gimmick than something actually obligatory for this product. Don’t get me incorrect, although. I additionally love Okay-beauty due to the skincaretainment issue (all credit score goes to Tracy of Fanserviced-B and the Snailcast for coining this excellent time period). I’ve no downside with gimmicks so long as they don’t intrude with the precise performance of the product or trigger me to carry out additional labor (hey, “injection masks” and all different sheet masks that rudely demand I put the essence into the masks packet myself). I additionally haven’t any downside with gimmicks so long as they don’t drive the value of the product an excessive amount of increased than it will be for a comparable product with no enjoyable gimmick. I like some gimmicks. They simply should be performed proper.
The Radiance Twin Essence’s gimmick doesn’t intrude with the precise performance of the product and doesn’t require me to carry out additional labor, so it’s a winner on these two fronts. As talked about a number of paragraphs in the past, the twin chamber pump dispenses equal quantities of product from both sides. Superior.
We’ll get to cost issues additional under, however for now let’s discuss how the product feels and performs, particularly compared to my absolute holy grail Snail 96 Mucin Energy Essence.
In comparison with the unique Snail 96, the Radiance Twin Essence has a thinner and lighter consistency, which is sensible, given the decrease focus of snail mucin in it. It spreads on simply and sinks in additional shortly, making it somewhat extra superb for a rushed morning routine. Just like the Snail 96, it has no scent and feels immediately soothing on my pores and skin, and just like the Snail 96, it creates smoother texture and improved hydration instantly upon software.
Throughout regular climate and regular pores and skin days, I discover no distinction within the hydrating, moisturizing, and protecting results of the Radiance Twin Essence in comparison with the Snail 96, regardless of the Radiance Twin Essence’s thinner consistency. I’ve used it completely instead of the Snail 96 ever because it arrived at my doorstep again in September and have been very proud of it in its place.
Now that winter is right here, I’m rethinking that. The decrease humidity exterior and my love for working the heater inside have left my pores and skin feeling way more parched than traditional, even with heavier lotions for day and extra-heavy lotions at night time. I began to suspect that the Snail 96 would possibly work higher for my pores and skin by way of moisture stage and retention than the Radiance Twin Essence, so I experimented with swapping the Radiance Twin Essence again out for the Snail 96.
Seems I used to be proper. Whereas it’s thicker and due to this fact much less handy to use in a morning routine than the Radiance Twin Essence, the Snail 96 undoubtedly provides my pores and skin extra moisture and holds that moisture in longer than the Radiance Twin Essence, even when all the pieces else in my routine stays the identical. I additionally discover the Snail 96’s thickness simpler for shielding my pores and skin from irritation brought on by chilly dry winds and from actions like blowing my nostril.
When it comes to baseline snail advantages, due to this fact, I nonetheless want the Snail 96. I’ve relied on the Snail 96 for years to strengthen my pores and skin’s defenses in opposition to dryness and exterior irritation, and in drier circumstances, it nonetheless appears higher for me for that objective. I wouldn’t even have observed the lower in moisture or safety if the climate hadn’t all of a sudden gone all chilly and desert-dry on me, although.
I additionally depend on snail to assist my pores and skin get better extra shortly from any irritation or breakouts that I expertise. When these occurred throughout my testing interval, I caught with the Radiance Twin Essence to see if it will assist velocity up therapeutic time in addition to the Snail 96 does. In my expertise, it does. Though thinner, the Radiance Twin Essence feels as comforting on compromised pores and skin because the Snail 96, and my little mishaps healed up simply as shortly and utterly as I’d have anticipated them to if I’d used the unique snail essence. I had a bout of overexfoliation not way back that the Radiance Twin Essence lined up and calmed down properly.
So to recap up to now: the decrease focus of snail mucin does make a distinction by way of moisturization and barrier help, however not by way of soothing or therapeutic capability.
The opposite main formulation distinction between the Snail 96 and the Radiance Twin Essence is the inclusion of brightening substances within the Radiance Twin Essence. 5% niacinamide, whereas extra frequent as of late than it was a number of years in the past, continues to be a fairly large deal. Off the highest of my head, I can solely suppose of some merchandise that include 5% or extra of this nice ingredient–most merchandise that embrace it don’t disclose their utilization fee, which my cynical self interprets as which means they’re not utilizing sufficient for it to matter. Including 5% niacinamide to an already stable snail product? It’s so easy however so genius.
For years, my routine has included a ton of actives with brightening results. At this level, after all of the tretinoin and AHAs and vitamin C and common use of 5% and typically 10% niacinamide brightening serums, and after all of the gallons and gallons of each day sunscreen utilized three fingers at a time, there’s not likely something left to fade. I’ve been in upkeep mode since in all probability 2018. So I can’t remark a lot on the Radiance Twin Essence’s brightening skills someway.
What I can say is that I used the Twin Radiance Essence for over a month with out every other devoted niacinamide or brightening merchandise in my routine. Niacinamide is believed to enhance hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the switch of melanosomes, which make and deposit the melanin that results in darkish spots and uneven pores and skin tone because of hyperpigmentation. This could not solely assist cut back any present hyperpigmentation, but in addition assist stop new spots from forming (when used to help correct solar safety, after all). Right here, I’m joyful to report that I haven’t had any new solar spots forming, regardless of typically going exterior for a minute to test my vegetation and feed the crows within the morning earlier than placing on sunscreenplease don’t kill me. I’ve additionally observed that the couple of little maskne spots I’ve gotten just lately have healed up and light away quickly. No lingering PIH.
So though I can’t describe any noticeable fading of present PIH on my pores and skin, I do really feel assured that the 5% niacinamide brightening part of the Radiance Twin Essence does all that could possibly be anticipated with my present pores and skin situation. That makes this a multipurpose product that truly principally lives as much as its acknowledged functions.
Earlier than occurring to conclusions, although, there’s another factor to speak about. The value.
Based mostly on the official COSRX web site, the total retail value of the Radiance Twin Essence is $35 for 80 ml of product. The complete retail value of the Snail 96 Mucin Energy Essence, however, is $23 for 100 ml. This implies the Radiance Twin Essence prices extra for much less product. A part of that’s little question as a result of packaging, however a part of it’s also as a result of extra brightening substances when in comparison with the simplicity of the Snail 96 method. It’s principally getting an entire brightening serum and a reasonably full snail essence in a single. That’s the ultimate issue that helps me work out when to advocate every one.
Whether or not you select to attempt the brand new Superior Snail Radiance Twin Essence or follow the Snail 96 Mucin Energy Essence will rely largely on what your main goal is.
If you happen to primarily need full snail advantages–the hydration, the moisture, the soothing protecting layer that gives additional resilience in opposition to exterior harm–and also you both have already got, or don’t actually need, an added brightening part, then the unique Snail 96 will make extra sense in your wants.
If, however, you wish to embrace each a stable brightening serum and a few snail advantages in your skincare, and particularly for those who don’t wish to have so as to add two layers to your routine to take action, the Radiance Twin Essence makes extra sense. Below all however the driest circumstances, I discovered the snail part of it completely serviceable, and the niacinamide proportion is great. It’s one of many only a few “two merchandise in a single” ideas that I’ve seen really work out the best way it ought to on my pores and skin.
I’ve been utilizing the Radiance Twin Essence fortunately and can fortunately end the bottle. I’ll almost certainly return to the Snail 96 afterwards, no less than till the climate warms up and the humidity rises once more, however I’m impressed with what COSRX has pulled off with this new addition to the Superior Snail line (and grateful that they didn’t pull the previous Snail 96 to make room for it!).
1 – This ought to be taken off the market, or this failed at its one main job.
2 – Triggered me some issues or doesn’t work very properly; wouldn’t purchase once more.
3 – Meh. Neither nice nor dangerous.
4 – Fairly good. Would purchase once more except I discover one thing higher.
5 – I’ll by no means be out there for a substitute except this one is discontinued.
The place can I purchase COSRX Superior Snail Radiance Twin Essence (or COSRX Superior Snail 96 Mucin Energy Essence)?
Discover the Superior Snail Radiance Twin Essence on COSRX’s personal web site, which ships from South Korea; from the COSRX Amazon storefront*, which ships from the US; and on Yesstyle International*.
Discover the Superior Snail 96 Mucin Energy Essence on COSRX’s personal web site, which ships from South Korea; from the COSRX Amazon storefront*, which ships from the US; and on Yesstyle International*.