The Doxa Military is a considerably elusive watch… It’s the form of historic mannequin that has a quite complicated story and is understood solely by a small group of seasoned collectors. Nonetheless, it has a sure cult standing, which was strengthened final 12 months after fairly a storm within the watch neighborhood, and earlier this 12 months by the introduction of a ceramic restricted version – which solely made the look forward to what’s coming immediately even longer. However no worries, in case you didn’t handle to get your fingers on the Black Ceramic Mannequin for Watches of Switzerland, the Doxa Military is now out there in chrome steel, in a extra traditional fashion, with a extra accessible worth, in a non-limited version, and with an equally cool (if not cooler) look!
Doxa has lengthy been recognized for being one of the influential manufacturers within the discipline of diving. Crucial watch of its historical past, the SUB 300, was a undertaking initiated in 1964 by Urs Eschle, head of growth for Doxa, with the concept to create from scratch a brand new device dive watch that was each ultra-functional but additionally accessible. In 1967, the model introduced the SUB 300 and SUB 300T, pro-oriented dive watches designed to be inexpensive to a broader public. This story is immediately extensively recognized and nonetheless participates a lot within the enchantment of the model.
The story of the Doxa Military was, till not too long ago, much less famend. With such pedigree, Doxa shortly attracted the eye of particular forces. In 1966, the Swiss Military arrange a particular drive of navy divers educated to grow to be an elite corps. Its first member started coaching in 1968 and round that point the Doxa SUB 300T handed a stringent sequence of assessments arrange by the Swiss Military so the watch might grow to be a part of the usual gear issued to its divers. Between 1968 and 1975, Swiss Military fight divers had been systematically outfitted with a Doxa SUB 300T Skilled. And in 1969, the model and the Swiss Military went one step additional collectively creating a watch to reply their particular wants. Primarily based on the specs of the SUB 300T already in use, this Doxa Military watch differs with its matte black case, its traditional 60-minute matte black insert on the diving bezel, and a sand-beige dial that eliminates any danger of glare while making certain wonderful readability in low visibility circumstances. Additionally, it is likely one of the very first watches to make use of a coating course of.
Following the launch of the black ceramic Doxa Military restricted version for Watches of Switzerland earlier this 12 months, Doxa now provides a extra traditional, non-limited, extra accessible version of the Military watch in chrome steel to its portfolio… a watch that was clearly anticipated by followers of the model and of military-inspired watches. And it is available in two completely different editions, with a metal or a bronze bezel, the latter additionally fitted with cool inexperienced accents.
Wanting on the new metal Doxa Military, there’s not a lot that we haven’t stated earlier than when the black ceramic mannequin was launched. It’s all about completely different supplies. The remainder of the watch, together with its hanging and unique dial, are equivalent. The metal Doxa Military is predicated on the extra trendy model of the model’s emblematic watch, which means the SUB 300T (not the vintage-oriented SUB 300 with its domed sapphire crystal). The reference to the historic watch is simple and each seems and specs are about the identical as up to now… however with trendy requirements of manufacturing.
The case, which is now product of chrome steel, has a quite sizeable 50mm diameter. But, as at all times with Doxa, the Military watch has a brief case that’s solely 44.50mm – which is lower than most 40mm watches in the marketplace. Mixed with a relative thinness of 11.95mm (not dangerous for a dive watch), it makes the Doxa Military a watch that manages to have good wrist presence and luxury, even on smaller wrists. The watch itself is typical Dox’ with a screw-down crown, a screwed caseback, a flat sapphire crystal on high, and a cushty 300m water-resistance.
One of many primary variations between this Doxa Military and a traditional SUB 300T is the bezel. Whereas it nonetheless has the shark-tooth profile, the insert has right here a traditional 60-minute scale and never the emblematic no-deco scale of different Doxa dive watches. Totally graduated, this bezel is extremely legible, with good distinction in daylight, but additionally a good quantity of lume on the triangle and numerals for nighttime readability. This unidirectional bezel is obtainable both in traditional metal or mixed with a black ceramic insert… Or, new for the model, the bezel could be product of bronze and on this case, the ceramic insert is darkish inexperienced (named hunter inexperienced). No have to say that this model, with its hotter tones and funky classic vibe, would be the one among alternative… no less than for us.
The dial of this metal Doxa Military stays the identical because the black restricted version, and it’s thus equivalent to the historic mannequin. It has an unique sand-beige matte color within the centre and a extremely graphic, but legible chapter ring with daring black rectangular markers, minute monitor in white over a black background, and beige and white hour indexes. The latter are all lined in SLN, for nighttime legibility. This reissue watch, identical to its ancestor, incorporates a date at 3 o’clock. The oddly positioned logos and Military signal, which participated within the weirdly cool look of the classic mannequin, are additionally current right here. The fingers, additionally unique in form and hues, are an ode to the historic mannequin with their arrow design and daring orange tone.
Beneath the screwed strong again with a particular Military emblem is a tried-and-tested motion, the ETA 2824. This computerized calibre runs at a 4Hz frequency and shops 38h of energy reserve. Easy, strong, and simple to service, it permits to maintain the value cheap and is consistent with the instrumental idea of this watch.
Lastly, the metal Doxa Military is obtainable on a alternative of straps and bracelets. The metal/black bezel could be worn on a stainless-steel “beads of rice” bracelet, outfitted with a folding and a diving extension, or a black FKM rubber strap with a metal folding clasp and diving extension. The bronze/inexperienced bezel mannequin may also be ordered with the identical bracelet or rubber strap, but additionally with a 3rd possibility, a inexperienced FKM rubber strap as introduced on this article. Lastly, all fashions are delivered in a particular pouch with a camouflage sample (the identical because the uniform worn on the time by the Swiss Military) and an extra NATO camouflage strap.
Availability & Value
The 5 references of the Doxa Military chrome steel assortment will probably be out there from the model and retailers in October 2022 and will probably be a part of the everlasting assortment. Costs will probably be EUR/USD 2,050 for the metal bezel model on a rubber strap and EUR/USD 2,090 with a metal bracelet. The bronze bezel mannequin will probably be priced at EUR/USD 2,150 with a rubber strap and EUR/USD 2,190 with a metal bracelet. For extra particulars, please go to www.doxawatches.com.