I’m the final considered one of our staff to select a list of my high ten from 2021. And although I’d been eager about such a listing for many of the 12 months – seeing as a comparatively good portion of it was spent in lockdown – I nonetheless had a tough time in the long run narrowing it down to only ten items.
So please forgive me that we’re already a month into 2022 as I submit this . . . hopefully this very subjective listing will encourage us all to stay up for what this new 12 months will deliver us horologically.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadryptique
In a 12 months of superlative releases for the standard maker, Jaeger-LeCoultre has proven itself unafraid to tug out all of the stops for the 90th anniversary of its most well-known watch, the Reverso.
And so they did! JLC blesses the watch world with a masterpiece that includes 4 sides of artistic astronomical horology, some capabilities of which had not but been integrated right into a wristwatch. And it’s one factor to make an ultra-complicated watch, however to make such a watch in such a compact bundle is a complication by itself: at simply over 15 mm excessive, the Reverso Calibre 185 is extremely skinny for such an extremely complication.
Fast Info Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185
Case: 51.2 x 31 x 15.15 mm, white gold, 30-meter water resistance
Motion: manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 185 with one-minute flying tourbillon, 50-hour energy reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Face 1: hours, minutes, seconds (on flying tourbillon), instantaneous perpetual calendar with day, date, month, bissextile year, day/night time indication
Face 2: leaping digital hours, minutes, minute repeater (with system avoiding useless time)
Face 3: Northern Hemisphere moon section, draconic lunar cycle, anomalistic lunar cycle (apogee and perigee), month, 12 months
Face 4: Southern Hemisphere moon section
Limitation: 10 items
Worth: €1,350,000 (approx. $1,600,000)
A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Section with aventurine dial
The Lange 1 is likely one of the watch business’s treasures, a wristwatch symbolizing each hope and resurrection and that includes a design that was near stunning on the time of its introduction in 1994.
This variation is an extraterrestrial ensemble that includes an aventurine dial that’s in my eyes nothing in need of genius, coming off like a cloudless night time sky below finest visibility circumstances, however leaving the most effective of the Lange 1’s technical genius on present.
For extra info, please go to alange-soehne.com/en/timepieces/little-lange-1-moon-phase.
Fast Info A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Section
Case: 36.8 x 10 mm, white gold or white gold with bezel set with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.2 ct)
Motion: manually wound Caliber L121.2, untreated German silver plates and bridges, hand-engraved steadiness cock, 411 motion elements (8 of that are chatons and 44 of that are jewels), 72-hour energy reserve, in-house steadiness spring, 3 Hz/21,600 vph, swan-neck nice adjustment
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; giant date, energy reserve indicator, moon section
Worth: €42,800; €53,900 with diamond-set bezel
A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst
Whereas the Lange 1 is for me the primary watch that A. Lange & Söhne makes – I’ve stated it earlier than: this watch comprises every little thing you’ll ever have to learn about this firm – there isn’t a doubt that the historic model’s restricted masterpieces are additionally treasures.
The oblong Cabaret arrived in A. Lange & Söhne’s assortment in 1997, and the Cabaret Tourbillon was launched in 2008, however neither of them have been a part of the common A. Lange & Söhne assortment for some time now. The Cabaret Tourbillon was discontinued in 2013.
Nevertheless, because it now appears, we might even see restricted variations of this flamboyant timepiece at times, which I feel is a stellar strategy to hold these masterpieces alive. And to make this variation a part of the textured Handwerkskunst restricted editions is simply genius.
I may have a look at this watch all day and nonetheless discover new particulars. That is what makes it probably the greatest of 2021.
For rather more, please see Watch Wardrobing The WIS Manner With The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst.
Fast Info A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst
Case: 29.5 x 39.2 x 10.3 mm, platinum
Dial: 18-karat white gold with hand-engraved lozenge sample, semi-transparent enamel
Motion: hand-wound Caliber L042.1 with patented hacking one-minute tourbillon, assembled twice, three-quarter plate in German silver, 120-hour energy reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, Lange steadiness spring; two diamond endstones, 9 screw-mounted gold chatons
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; giant date, energy reserve indication
Limitation: 30 items with engraved variety of limitation
Zenith Chronomaster Unique
Through the 2021 Swiss Open in Gstaad, I had the prospect to extensively deal with the brand new Chronomaster and Chronomaster Unique watches and fell in love with the latter, which marks the primary time a detailed tribute to Zenith’s authentic Reference A386 of 1969 has entered Zenith’s everlasting assortment in a chrome steel case.
Whereas I loudly lauded this timepiece so shut in appears to its iconic predecessor for the way in which that it matches this second in time and the tastes of up to date watch lovers as hardly one other watch at present does, when Zenith’s representatives pulled out a then still-embargoed variation in response to my apparent delight, I knew this was probably the greatest watches I might see throughout the 12 months.
Regardless that I’m not often one for diamonds, I admit to loving the 38 mm timepiece much more with the addition of a mother-of-pearl dial and splash of sparkle on the lugs, which oddly doesn’t take away from the sporty, daily-wear high quality of this watch, solely enhancing its magnificence.
For extra, please go to zenith-watches.com/int/model/chronomaster-original.
Fast Info Zenith Chronomaster Unique
Case: 38 x 12.6 mm, stainless-steel set with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds on the lugs (0.22 ct)
Dial: mother-of-pearl in 4 colours, 9 brilliant-cut diamond hour markers
Motion: computerized Caliber El Primero 3600, 60-hour energy reserve, 36,000 vph/5 Hz frequency, column wheel management of chronograph, lateral clutch
Features: hours, minutes, (hacking) seconds; date, chronograph with 1/10th of a second show
Strap: calfskin leather-based strap with stainless-steel triple-folding clasp
Worth: CHF 12,900
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6119
Gown watches obtain much less love right this moment than sports activities watches, so Patek Phillipe’s fashionable tackle its basic Calatrava was necessary to get good. And bullseye! It hits each up to date be aware completely with out sacrificing something of what makes this watch such an icon.
An necessary introduction by considered one of right this moment’s most necessary manufacturers, completely hitting each element.
And thank heavens they nonetheless included that attractive clous de Paris bezel!
For extra, please see Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6119: Dressed For Success.
Fast Info Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6119
Case: 39 x 8.43 mm, white (6119G-001) or pink gold (6119R-001), 30 m water resistance
Motion: manually wound Caliber 30-255 PS with 65-hour energy reserve, 2.55 in top, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency, Gyromax steadiness with Spiromax steadiness spring, Patek Philippe Seal
Features: hours, minutes, (hacking) seconds
MB&F x Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra
This might be the watch of the 12 months for me, a magnificence so loaded with technical mastery and exquisitely sourced and lower gems that it appears a disgrace to place it on the wrist slightly than in an artwork gallery.
However that’s the fantastic thing about this piece: it lives. It pulses. It breathes.
And what do I like finest about it (other than its appears and expertise)? The truth that it’s an enthusiastic collaboration between an impartial watchmaker and a well-established large model. And that it merely takes my breath away each time I see it.
For extra info, please go to mbandf.com/en/machines/performance-art/lmflyingtallegra-mbandf-bulgari.
Fast Info MB&F x Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra
Case: 39 x 20 mm, white or pink gold, set with brilliant-cut diamonds
Gem setting: diamonds, tsavorites, topaz, amethyst, tanzanite, and tourmaline (white gold model) or diamonds, tsavorites, rubellite, amethyst, tanzanite, and tourmaline (pink gold model)
Motion: computerized caliber with three-dimensional vertical structure, central flying 60-second tourbillon, four-day energy reserve, 2.5 Hz/18,000 vph frequency
Features: hours, minutes
Worth: CHF 160,000
Arnold & Son Luna Magna
Like Joshua, I’m a fan of enjoyable moon section shows. And like Joshua, I nominated the Luna Magna for my listing of 2021’s finest due to its excellent moon: a large ball manufactured from aventurine and white marble that measures a stellar 12 mm in diameter.
The designers at Arnold & Son allowed the moon to fully take over the visuals of the Luna Magna’s dial, which is what offers this watch its appeal. That excellent aventurine dial doesn’t harm, both.
For extra info, please go to Arnold & Son Luna Magna And Luna Magna Final 1: Marbles, Moons, And Magnificence.
Fast Info Arnold & Son Luna Magna
Case: 44 x 15.9 mm, pink gold
Motion: manually wound Caliber A&S1021, 90-hour energy reserve, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency
Features: hours, minutes; moon section
Limitation: 28 items
Worth: CHF 43,900
Armin Strom Tribute 1
If anybody is questioning what path up to date watchmaking could also be heading in, a look on the Armin Strom Tribute 1 might present some solutions to the query. What an outstanding instance of a contemporary gown watch expressing the fantastic thing about conventional mechanics and the dedication to refinement in the most effective sense of high quality, craft, and ingenuity!
With case dimensions of 38 x 9 millimeters, it effortlessly fulfills the sizing a gown watch requires. Nevertheless, it nonetheless reveals presence on the wrist, slipping simply and comfortably below the cuff. Its dial concurrently shows craftsmanship and avant-garde design, with the obvious ingredient being the seen spring barrel within the decrease proper a part of the dial, overlapping with the off-centered time indication.
The complete dial might be a reference for a classy shade research in gray, shining with distinctive hand-finishing and element to create an interaction of sunshine and shadow on the wrist. Whereas many of the dial aspect has a finely grained floor with an industrial-like contact, the offset dial to the higher left showcases a filigreed concentric sample. What texture!
With all that nice design it’s too straightforward to overlook the mechanical powerhouse inside. For this reason I’m right here to remind us.
For extra, see Tribute 1 By Armin Strom: Redefining The Modern Gown Watch.
Fast Info Armin Strom Tribute 1
Case: 38 x 9.38 mm, stainless-steel, 50-meter water resistance
Motion: handbook winding Caliber AMW21, 25,200 vph/3.5 Hz frequency, 100-hour energy reserve, white gold barrel cock
Features: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: 25 items (with white gold barrel bridge)
Worth: 13,900 Swiss francs
Comment: 10-year guarantee, double the usual supplied by Armin Strom
La Semaine Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein
The strictly restricted nature of this expressive watch coupled with its irresistibly engaging value and collaboration with iconic designer Alain Silberstein makes it the watch to have proper now.
And it references Silberstein’s personal work – probably the greatest of his little innovations – with its “smileday” operate during which the times don’t have names however are symbolized by playful smiley faces. One’s temper is immediately lifted by taking a look at this dial.
Fast Info La Semaine Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein
Case: 40 x 11.6 mm, microblasted grade 2 titanium and polished grade 5 titanium
Motion: computerized Caliber ETA 2836-2, 38-hour energy reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; date, smileday operate
Limitation: 178 items (offered out)
Worth: CHF 3,500
Comment: three-year guarantee and quick-change strap operate
AnOrdain Mannequin 1 Payne’s Gray Fumé
I feel it is crucial to not overlook fairly priced watches in lists like this, particularly if we predict they benefit the honour. And I do really feel a way about a lot of what anOrdain makes – however most significantly the Mannequin 1 Fumé sequence. Hardly ever have 38 millimeters of stainless-steel supplied a lot appeal.
The principle attraction of anOrdain’s Mannequin 1 Payne’s Gray Fumé is, unquestionably, the dial, which is a wholly new enameling method that the Glasgow-based agency invented and perfected. It consists of a barely domed silver disk whose floor is hand-treated to offer it a singular, grainy texture. Because the dial is barely domed, the thickness of the enamel layers varies, creating the extremely fascinating, distinctive, and engaging fumé impact.
Newer, youthful manufacturers spicing issues up is necessary to concentrate to, and we’re fortunately seeing numerous them lately. Except for that, that is merely one hell of a look ahead to the cash.
Fast Info anOrdain Mannequin 1 Payne’s Gray Fumé
Case: 38 x 11 mm, stainless-steel
Dial: high-fire gradient enamel on a hand-hammered silver disk with pad-printed markings
Motion: computerized ETA Caliber 2824-2, 42-hour energy reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Features: hours, minutes, seconds
Worth: 2,350 Swiss francs
Comment: 5-year guarantee