Fingers-On: Cartier Rotonde Masse Mystérieuse Watch

Simply one of the crucial visually and technically spectacular high-luxury watches of 2022 was the limited-edition Cartier Rotonde Masse Mystérieuse (debuted on aBlogtoWatch right here). I obtained to see the Cartier Masse Mystérieuse watch at Watches & Wonders 2022, and the idea is thrillingly executed and deceptively easy. In keeping with Cartier, the higher a part of a decade was spent growing the in-house caliber 9801 MC automated motion. Regardless of the small dimension of the oddly-shaped motion, the mechanism nonetheless accommodates 435 elements. It additionally occurs to be its personal automated rotor. That’s proper, the principle level of the Cartier Masse Mystérieuse is that the motion doubles because the mass that winds the mainspring. That is just like the Cartier that Louis Carroll imagined.

Usually, an automated mechanical motion would have a weight that’s hooked up to the motion and oscillated in relation to the motion of the wristwatch in your wrist. This movement creates the kinetic vitality that strikes the half-circle weight, or just strikes the watch right into a place the place gravity does that job. So far as I do know, the Masse Mystérieuse is the primary wristwatch ever to totally make an automated rotor out of the motion itself. Technically talking, the idea sounds mad, however the execution is feasible. This isn’t the primary high-end timepiece that looks as if the outstanding results of an odd wager somebody took whereas intoxicated. (“After all, I can design it! Simply give me two [10] years…”) Let’s not fake Cartier is fixing any horological issues with a watch like this. The Masse Mystérieuse is all about artwork — however useful, mechanical artwork, so extra of us prefer it.

Cartier doesn’t cease on the movement-as-rotor, although. The Masse Mystérieuse is one in every of a protracted line of “thriller dial” Cartier watches that delight lovers like us. That tends to imply a number of elements on the dial have “thriller settings,” that means that you don’t visually know the way they’re hooked up. Positive sufficient, for those who peer on the dial of the Cartier Masse Mystérieuse, you will note that it isn’t instantly apparent how the motion (and arms) are hooked up to the outer a part of the case. That is achieved as a result of the motion and arms are all mounted on a collection of clear sapphire crystal discs.

There are lots of little surprises throughout the 9801 MC automated motion. For instance, it’s designed in order that, in fact, the hour and minute arms within the heart of the dial don’t transfer, regardless that the motion itself is. That required Cartier to develop a differential system. The motion additionally operates beneath completely different pressures, and but it maintains a 4Hz (28,800 bph) operational frequency with 42 hours of energy reserve. You may learn extra in regards to the innovation of the motion within the unique Cartier Rotonde Masse Mystérieuse debut article linked-to above. The ultimate ornamental function of the motion is the spectacular stage of skeletonization, which is, likewise, completed by hand.

Whereas the Cartier Rotonde Masse Mystérieuse just isn’t a small timepiece, it isn’t an outsized watch, both. The case is 43.5mm-thick in 950 platinum, 12.65mm-thick, and waterproof to 30 meters. You may see how the watch appears on the wrist; the graceful traces of the Rotonde case form assist maintain it trim, and the semi-bare dial lightens the load. The case has a purple ruby cabochon crystal within the crown, and hooked up to the case is a gray-colored alligator strap on one in every of Cartier’s newer deployant clasps.

Carrying the Cartier Masse Mystérieuse in your wrist for any time period is an fascinating expertise. It actually has aptitude, however it’s, in lots of methods, a humble-looking timepiece for one which prices over 1 / 4 of one million {dollars}. The watch even has a practicality to it. The dial, with its easy-to-read hour and minute arms in opposition to the conservative-looking hour and minute marker ring, makes for a moderately first rate every day put on. On the identical time, the complete idea may be very playful. It’s arduous to not shake your wrist round (which both makes you look indignant or as if you might be air-playing maracas) to benefit from the movement, in addition to want to point out off the mechanical animation to onlookers. What I really like in regards to the Masse Mystérieuse idea is that even when it requires a classy watch lover to know how the motion works, even a baby can perceive what they’re seeing and be impressed by the enjoyable and ingenuity.

Whereas others would possibly come sooner or later, for now, the Masse Mystérieuse watch stays a restricted version of simply 30 items in platinum. Cartier has been identified to launch widespread high-complication items like this in numerous metals, however it actually isn’t assured. If I have been a very well-funded collector, I might significantly eye one in every of these. However I might additionally ensure that there’s a Cartier boutique on the town, as a novel motion like this may occasionally very effectively want to return to the watchmaker on occasion to stay in tip-top situation. Value for the reference WHR00078 Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse watch is $274,000 USD. Study extra on the Cartier web site right here.