Chopard’s first L.U.C calibre with a flying tourbillon made its debut at Baselworld 2019 in a rose gold case with a gray dial. The epitome of a recent gown watch with a nod to the previous, Chopard’s ultra-thin flying tourbillon returns this 12 months in an moral 18k white gold case with a good-looking blue guilloché dial in a restricted version run of fifty items. Though it displays conventional issues just like the tourbillon and conventional ornamental methods like guillochage, the L.U.C Flying T Twin doesn’t fall into the class of a ‘conventional’ or ‘classical’ watch. Quite, it comes throughout as a remarkably elegant and refined modern gown watch powered by a complicated ultra-thin motion with a sturdy energy reserve. Like its predecessor, the watch is COSC chronometer-certified and flaunts the celebrated Poinçon de Genève seal of high quality.
What’s in a reputation?
Accustomed as we’re to manufacturers with watch names that run on for miles, Chopard’s collections have a tendency to stay to brief names with abbreviations. On this case, the title of the L.U.C Flying T Twin is value dissecting to know what we’re coping with. L.U.C, that are the initials of the founder Louis-Ulysee Chopard who established a watchmaking workshop in Sonvilier in 1860, can be the title given to Chopard’s prime vary of actions produced within the model’s manufacture in Fleurier. Based in 1996 by Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the manufacture in Fleurier produces actions for the model’s top-tier L.U.C watches. Fashions bearing the celebrated Poinçon de Genève seal are subsequently assembled and controlled on the firm’s facility in Meyrin, Geneva. The “Flying T” within the title refers to a flying tourbillon, and “Twin” alludes to Chopard’s patented Twin Expertise that depends on two coaxial barrels to extend the ability reserve.
With its diameter of 40mm and slim peak of seven.2mm, the L.U.C Flying T Twin has good gown watch proportions. Made out of ethically sourced “Fairmined” gold, the white gold case has a brightly polished bezel contrasting with a vertical satin-brushed ending on the casebands. The gently sloping lugs are additionally polished and have clean, rounded corners for consolation.
A flying tourbillon in a big aperture at 6 o’clock animates the dial. In contrast to ‘common’ tourbillions, the flying tourbillon, which was invented by Alfred Helwig in 1920, dispenses with the higher bridge. Held in place by the decrease bridge, the tourbillon seems to fly because it completes its one-minute gyrations. Framed by a silver ring to match the case color, the flying tourbillon doubles as a small seconds counter with a white triangular-shaped hand mounted to the flying tourbillon carriage.
The dial is made out of a strong gold clean with a galvanic therapy to acquire the hanging blue color. A ravishing guilloché honeycomb sample, executed by hand, decorates the central space of the dial, a sample that has been used within the L.U.C assortment since 2017. Nearly like an Escher print in its summary geometry, the hexagonal compartments of the honeycomb sample are positioned at completely different angles including a substantial amount of aid and taking part in with the sunshine in sudden methods. The honeycomb sample is an allusion to Louis-Ulysee Chopard’s unique beehive trademark, which was, in flip, a reference to his forebears who have been beekeepers.
A snailed chapter ring hosts the utilized rhodium-plated hour markers and Arabic numeral 12, whereas the peripheral railroad monitor for the minutes and inscriptions on the dial – L.U. Chopard, Chronometer and Swiss Made – are gilded for distinction. Matching the hour markers, the Dauphine fusée-style hour and minute fingers are additionally rhodium-plated.
An evolution of Chopard’s unique ultra-thin automated calibre 96.01-L, the primary calibre produced by the manufacture in Fleurier 25 years in the past, the 96.24L retains the identical dimensions (27.40mm diameter x 3.30mm peak) and has the identical 22k gold micro-rotor. Don’t be deceived by the ultra-thin peak of the motion as a result of, due to Chopard’s patented Twin Expertise utilizing two stacked barrels, it will probably ship a sturdy 65-hour energy reserve. Completed to the excessive requirements of L.U. C watches with Geneva striping on the bridges and perlage on the plate, the motion is licensed by COSC as a chronometer and stamped with the celebrated Poinçon de Genève seal of high quality that encompasses technical, useful and aesthetic points of the watch.
The L.U.C Flying T Twin comes with a hand-stitched matte blue alligator leather-based strap with a cognac-coloured alligator lining and a pin buckle in 18k white gold
Availability & Value
Restricted to 50 numbered items, the L.U.C Flying T Twin will (ref. 161978-1001) be priced at roughly CHF 115,000 (to be confirmed). For extra data, please seek the advice of Chopard’s web site.