Fifteen years in the past, Ochs & Junior kicked issues off with an ingeniously easy weekday watch referred to as the Settimana. The watch featured a sensible and minimalist method to point out the times of the week developed by trade legend Dr Ludwig Oechslin. It additionally pointed to the trail this new impartial watchmaker was set to embark on. Showcasing a renewed tackle luxurious, Ochs & Junior watches had an unconventional, uncooked attraction, with unfinished circumstances exhibiting indicators of machining and industrial-looking dials. Through the years, the gathering expanded with all kinds of sensible calendar shows, revolving round Dr Oechslin’s less-is-more watchmaking ideas. Now, 15 years after its debut, Ochs & Junior presents the brand new Settimana Uncooked in two sizes.
Earlier within the 12 months, Christian Gafner, O&J’s present CEO, hinted at the up to date Settimana in an interview with us, and now it has materialised. The Settimana Uncooked is a play on the prevailing idea of the corporate’s signature type. Dr Ludwig Oechslin, the co-founder of Ochs & Junior, is answerable for a complete vary of intelligent options to show extra info to time, utilizing as few elements as attainable. That is showcased by watches just like the just lately launched Calendario Cent’Anni, utilizing solely 9 elements for a perpetual calendar complication.
The brand new Ochs & Junior Settimana Uncooked is offered in two sizes: 36mm or 40mm. With a peak of 10.8mm and a grade 5 titanium case, it stays a comparatively small and light-weight watch, tipping the size at simply 55 or 57 grams, relying on the diameter. Simply as with different fashions, the circumstances are left unfinished and present indicators of the milling and machining course of. The 2-part building has a really industrial attraction, with a easy crown and quick, straight lugs that partly shroud the strap.
One of many tips utilized by Ochs & Junior (or fairly Dr Oechslin) to cut back components is to make the dial a useful element for the indications. The bottom of the brass dial is used to repair the extra components wanted for the weekday indication. This mechanism makes use of solely 4 elements, of which the dial is one. The others are a gear for the weekday show, a triple perform wheel and a transmission gear. The dial is completed with a nickel coating and divulges the traces left by the CNC instruments throughout machining. The gray tone nearly matches the titanium case for a stark monochromatic look.
Time is indicated with easy palms executed in black. The palms are coated in black Tremendous-LumiNova. Reduce-outs within the dial reveal the weekday indication, which spans from 1 o’clock to 7 o’clock for Monday via Sunday. A black dot revolves beneath the dial to point the day of the week. At the start of every week, the dot rapidly strikes from 8 to 12 o’clock to return to the “Monday” place and begin the cycle once more. Aspect by aspect, you possibly can see the distinction 4mm could make, because the indications on the smaller of the 2 look a bit extra balanced.
Energy comes from a dependable outsourced motion, the Sellita SW 200-1. This computerized motion is an effective various to the ETA 2824 calibre. It makes use of 26 jewels, runs at a frequency of 28,800vph and supplies 38 hours of energy reserve. It’s hidden from view by the strong decrease a part of the case. The Sellita SW 200-1 additionally signifies a date, however this has been eliminated to create area for the weekday indication, which receives its energy from the hour wheel within the centre via a discount wheel.
The Ochs & Junior Settimana Uncooked is a non-customisable mannequin within the model’s portfolio. It’s worn on a home made black textile strap with a titanium pin buckle. Because the watch is fitted with an outsourced motion, it retails for a reasonably affordable CHF 2,400.
For extra info, please go to ochsundjunior.swiss