Jaeger-LeCoultre‘s Reverso, launched in 1931, is a legit icon within the watchmaking world. Initially designed for polo gamers fed up with smashing the glass on their watches, the Reverso offered a intelligent resolution within the type of a swivelling protecting case. With its modern Artwork Deco persona and two faces, the Reverso embraces its unique vocation as a sports activities watch and reappears this yr with a chronograph, retrograde minutes and a second time show. Powered by a brand new in-house motion – the calibre 860 – the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, in pink gold and metal instances, attracts inspiration from the primary Reverso chronograph of 1996.
1996 Reverso Chronographe Retrograde
Coinciding with the Reverso’s 60th anniversary in 1991, an bold plan was applied to launch six difficult Reverso fashions in ten years. The timing of those releases was a transparent sign that the damaging avalanche of low cost quartz actions had not decimated the potential to start out constructing classical watchmaking issues once more. 4 years within the making, the Reverso Chronographe Retrograde appeared in 1996. Not solely was it the primary formed chronograph motion in an oblong case for JLC, but it surely was the primary manual-winding built-in chronograph to be developed from scratch within the post-quartz period – even beating A. Lange & Söhne to the end line with its L951.1. If you’re within the full story of calibre 829, we’ve an enchanting, in-depth article in our Collector’s Nook. Under, the 1996 Reverso Chronographe Retrograde and its spectacular calibre 829.
Reverso Tribute Chronograph
The oblong instances – in 18k pink gold or metal – are 49.4mm lengthy and 29.9mm large with a thickness of 11.14mm. Polished all through, the instances show the signature gadroons – horizontal engraved traces at both finish of the case – that underscore its elegant and streamlined Artwork Deco origins. In comparison with its distinguished 1996 ancestor, the pushers and the crown on the correct facet of the case are much less pronounced and higher built-in, and each dials have been totally redesigned.
The primary dial belies the complexity of its motion and shows a splendidly serene sunray-brushed background. The chrome steel model has a gray dial produced with an modern ADL (atomic layer deposit) course of utilizing ultra-thin layers of titanium oxide, whereas the pure black dial supplies a chic distinction to the heat of the pink gold case. Utilized baton markers on the signature chemin de fer (railroad) minutes observe are indicated by elegant Dauphine arms.
Turning the watch over reveals a extra advanced, openworked dial revealing the chronograph mechanism. Beneath the bridges with their Côtes de Genève ornament, the column wheel, the gear prepare and the stability wheel may be appreciated. Matching the entrance dial, the reverse dial additionally has baton markers utilized to the railway minute observe, which seem suspended over the calibre.
To seek the advice of elapsed intervals of time, there’s a massive chronograph seconds show on a central ring and a 30-minute totaliser on an arc at 6 o’clock; each are picked out with black tracks, framed by a precision gold observe and indicated with blued metal arms. Including much more complexity to the image, the 30-minute counter of the chronograph is retrograde, and its blued hand jumps again to zero in lower than 1/8th of a second.
With such a distinguished ancestor as inspiration, the brand new calibre 860 is a totally built-in hand-wound chronograph motion designed, produced and assembled by JLC within the Vallée de Joux. Like its predecessor, the problem was to deal with round chronograph indications in an oblong case and keep legibility. The formed rectangular motion designed to match the case is a column-wheel chronograph with a horizontal clutch. The selection of a horizontal clutch over a vertical one was to take care of the thickness of the motion – simply 12mm – at a minimal.
To show the hours and minutes on the entrance and reverse dials, the motion has to energy two units of arms that transfer in reverse instructions. With 300 elements on board and an influence reserve of 52 hours to animate the twin time features and the gas-guzzling chronograph and retrograde shows, calibre 860 is a real feat of miniature engineering.
Returning to the Reverso’s unique ties to the world of polo, two straps, a canvas-and-calfskin strap and an all-leather strap are supplied with the watch and made by the distinguished Argentinian polo bootmaker Casa Fagliano.
Value to be confirmed. For extra data, please go to jaeger-lecoultre.com.
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