As they are saying, when you’ve bought it, flaunt it. Vacheron Constantin’s newest mixture of a tourbillon with a retrograde date show does simply that and levels its refined mechanics in a up to date, multi-level openworked dial. As a historic manufacture that listens to present traits, Vacheron Constantin welcomes one other mannequin into its conventional Traditionelle assortment with an ultra-contemporary but refined 21st-century aesthetic.
Openworked or skeletonised watches are in vogue, little question about that, and we are likely to suppose they’re novel methods of exposing mechanical actions. Nevertheless, when you’re an organization like Vacheron Constantin with a 268-year historical past, likelihood is you would possibly even have a few openworked fashions in your archives. It seems that VC did, actually, have an openworked mannequin in its archives within the type of a pocket watch with an astronomical calendar from 1918 (ref. 10937). Following a hiatus of just about 100 years, VC revisited the openworked dial idea with ref. 47247 in 2002, adopted by fashions just like the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar in 2019 and the Traditionnelle Openface Full Calendar of 2021.
The stepped case with its fluted caseback and slim bezel is hallmark Traditionelle fashion and is crafted in polished 18k pink gold with a 41mm diameter and a top of 11.07mm. Nevertheless, the dial reveals an enticing mix of previous and new with classical gold Dauphine palms, a railway minute observe and gold baton hour markers mixed with a up to date staging of the capabilities on 4 totally different planes.
The higher half of the dial options an opaline flange with the railway minute observe adopted by an arched gray hand-guilloché chapter ring internet hosting the utilized gold hour indices and the retrograde date observe. A retrograde date show doesn’t full a full flip of the dial; it travels alongside an arc after which springs again to 1 to start out counting down a brand new month. Right here the hand of the retrograde date is fabricated from 18k blackened gold and highlighted with a white arrow-shaped tip.
Beneath the retrograde date is an openworked space protected by a sapphire crystal revealing components of the retrograde mechanism; the plate is highlighted with a up to date slate gray floor remedy and embellished with vertical hand-brushing.
That is adopted by one other recessed guilloché-engraved plate and the big aperture for the spectacular tourbillon framed by a seconds observe. Surmounted by a hollowed-out Maltese Cross, the tourbillon creates a properly that traverses the dial and caseback. The finishings of the tourbillon cage are beautiful, with hand-bevelled and hand-polished surfaces.
The view from the reverse reveals different parts of the 2162 R31 calibre, an computerized motion developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin. Protected by slate gray bridges handled with a NAC floor remedy, calibre 2161 R31 is simply 6.25mm thick and is powered by a gold peripheral rotor. Beating at a frequency of 18,000vph, the motion delivers a 72-hour energy reserve and is licensed as a Poinçon de Genève timepiece.
The Traditionelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface comes on a handstitched gray alligator leather-based strap with a pink gold folding clasp formed like a half Maltese cross. The watch will solely be accessible in Vacheron Constantin boutiques, and the worth is to be confirmed. For extra data, please go to Vacheron-constantin.com.