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Some of the emblematic timepieces of all time, the legendary Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso endlessly renews itself in numerous embodiments, even 90 years after its start.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso group wristshot
The Reverso’s origins stem from the start of the 20th century when wristwatches have been simply turning into trendy, even for sports activities. The thought behind its rectangular development captures the modernity of the Artwork Deco interval – which modified the whole lot from artwork and structure to music and vogue – and proposes aesthetically pleasing dimensions based mostly on the golden ratio. It was first conceived in 1930 by César de Trey, a businessman distributing luxurious Swiss watches worldwide, after a visit to India. Considered one of his polo companions had smashed his watch in a sport and challenged him to create a mannequin that might survive a polo match unscathed.
Working along with Jacques-David LeCoultre, whose firm LeCoultre & Cie was well-known for its actions, and French engineer René-Alfred Chauvot, who got here up with the ingenious case-pivoting system, the ultra-resistant Reverso in a stainless-steel case was born a yr later to the delight of polo-playing British military officers stationed in India.
Authentic patent for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
The premise was easy: flip the case over to guard the watch crystal. With its attribute and patented slide-and-swivel operate and pure traces, the case, based mostly on a mechanism of two spring-mounted spurs that slot into grooves on both facet of the watch cradle, was a serious breakthrough and the primary of its type.
Lionel Favre, product design director of Jaeger-LeCoultre, explains, “The Reverso’s eye-catching rectangular form, uncluttered traces, and emblematic gadroons are all straight impressed by the Artwork Deco motion in vogue on the time of its creation. Its design is timeless and instantly recognizable.”
Quickly after its launch, Jaeger-LeCoultre started to construct actions to swimsuit the contours of the reversible case with capabilities that greatest capitalized on the timepiece’s two faces.
90 years of emblematic Reverso fashions
Over the previous 9 many years, the Reverso has been powered by greater than 50 separate calibers regardless of the additional challenges of rectangular-shaped actions versus conventional spherical calibers.
The entrance of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque
On its sixtieth birthday in 1991, on the time of the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking following the so-called Quartz Disaster, the Reverso’s case grew to become considerably bigger to have the ability to home extra subtle problems, together with the world’s first rectangular minute repeater, a retrograde chronograph, a perpetual calendar, the Grande Complication à Triptyque with 18 totally different capabilities, and the Gyrotourbillon with a biaxial flying tourbillon.
The 2 faces of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano
In 1994, the Duoface, the primary Reverso to show a second time zone on the again dial, was launched. The Duetto got here alongside in 1997 with a twin persona animated by a single motion: a discreet and basic dial on the entrance and a extra exuberant variant on the again.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadryptique
All through the years, technical creativity has ensued, culminating within the distinctive Hybris Mechanica Caliber 185 Quadriptyque in 2021. Probably the most advanced Reverso ever made, it’s extremely legible and wearable regardless of its compactness. Six years within the making, it’s the world’s first wristwatch with 4 functioning show faces and 11 problems, together with a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, and modern new astronomical indications predicting supermoons and eclipses, incomes 12 patents alongside the best way.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater
The newest Reverso is the dual-dial Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater powered by an upgraded model of in-house Caliber 944, which is provided with technical advances reminiscent of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s patented trebuchet hammers, a silent regulator, and a brand new era of gongs.
Unexpected profit of the Reverso swivel case
By creating the primary reversible timepiece with a case made to guard the dial, exposing solely the again to shocks, little did the designers know that their thought would play a job past that of a protecting protect.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso belonging to Common Douglas MacArthur from 1940
Because of its clean metallic flip facet, the Reverso was additionally the right floor for celebrating creative custom, expressing feelings, and telling their house owners’ tales. Nice examples are the historic watches belonging to Amelia Earhart, the Maharajah of Karputala, and Common Douglas MacArthur.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso belonging to Amelia Earhart from 1935
Grasp artisans use hand-operated instruments like dry-points, burins, gravers, chisels, recordsdata, and hammers for example and personalize by means of crafts that embody engraving, guilloché, gem-setting, miniature portray, and enameling carried out in-house. The second face of the swivel case might be embellished with coats of arms, initials, and drawings in keeping with clients’ needs.
In the midst of the 20th century, as evolving tastes rejected ornamentation, these conventional creative crafts began to vanish, however due to the revival of mechanical watchmaking within the Nineties, these methods regained favor.
In 1996, the model launched its first 4 timepieces adorned with grand feu enamel in fashionable instances. Miklos Merczel, who arrange Jaeger-LeCoultre’s personal enameling studio, replicated works by Czech Artwork Nouveau grasp Alphonse Mucha in miniature.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso with an Alphonse Mucha miniature enamel portray by Miklos Merczel
In 2016, the Atelier des Métiers Rares was established, gathering enamelers, engravers, gem-setters, and guilloche craftspeople collectively below one roof. “Whereas sure expertise have been misplaced endlessly and others are not taught, Jaeger-LeCoultre is thought exactly for its mastery of the very best high-quality watchmaking savoir-faire,” says Favre. “To provide and embellish its items, the ‘Grande Maison’ is among the few totally built-in manufactures that unites no fewer than 180 expertise below one roof.”
‘Reverso: Timeless Tales Since 1931’
To rejoice the icon’s ninetieth anniversary in 2021, the exhibition Reverso: Timeless Tales Since 1931 opened on the finish of October and runs till December 24, 2021 at 15 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré within the 8th arrondissement of Paris. The exhibition takes guests on a four-part voyage by means of time to find the historical past of considered one of horology’s biggest legends.
Jaeger-LeCoultre ‘Reverso: Timeless Tales Since 1931’ exhibition
Catherine Rénier, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, pronounced in her opening speech, “We invite you to affix us on a journey – one which started in 1931. Born on the top of the Artwork Deco period, the Reverso watch has change into a cult object over time, an emblem of favor and magnificence. Could this be an unforgettable journey of discovery for you.”
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième set up by Michael Murphy
Displayed over 5 flooring, the exhibition begins with the European debut of an set up by American artist Michael Murphy exploring area and time by means of a dive into the internal workings of the Reverso Tribute Nonantième, which includes a moon section and huge date show on the entrance and semi-jumping digital hours, rotating minutes, and evening/day indication on the again.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième back and front
We additionally discover uncommon archival paperwork from the Jaeger-LeCoultre assortment, classic promoting posters, ébauches, watchmaking, engraving and enameling instruments, the gold medal awarded to founder Antoine LeCoultre throughout the 1851 World’s Truthful in London, and milestone Reverso timepieces together with the primary 1931 Reverso outfitted with the Caliber 064, which arrived available on the market lower than 9 months after the patent software for the reversible case had been filed.
Historic Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso dial choices
Whereas different manufacturers proposed white or silver dials for their very own reversible instances, the unique Reverso watches broke with conference with their resolutely fashionable black dials adorned with contrasting, exceptionally legible indexes hailed as “the dial of the longer term,” which have been instantly adopted by made-to-order coloured dials in brilliant crimson, chocolate brown, burgundy and even blue lacquer, uncommon on the time in watchmaking and at this time coveted by collectors.
From its origins, the magnificence and luxury of carrying the Reverso additionally seduced non-sporty gents, who adopted it quickly as a costume watch; it has been accessible in each gold and metal for the reason that first yr of its creation.
Diane Kruger carrying a Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Girl Extremely Skinny
Though initially conceived as a sensible answer for polo gamers, the Reverso’s Artwork Deco traces additionally proved to be female from the outset, a uncommon instance of a design that was equally suited to each women and men. Turning into a vogue accent, totally different fashions supplied girls new methods of carrying the timepiece, reminiscent of on a finely woven cordonnet bracelet or as a pendant or a purse attachment, whereas all the time retaining the core design components.
The Reverso has additionally been on the coronary heart of many firsts for Jaeger-LeCoultre. On show on the Paris exhibition is the Soixantième, the primary sophisticated Reverso, launched in 1991 and that includes a central date hand and an influence reserve indicator; included a sapphire crystal case again showing for the primary time in a Reverso.
Additionally exhibited are the 1993 Reverso Tourbillon, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s first tourbillon wristwatch; the 2001 Reverso Platinum No. 1 powered by the manufacture’s first skeletonized motion and that includes the primary Reverso case in platinum; the extra-large 2002 Reverso Septantième with twin spring barrels, astonishing eight-day energy reserve, and 28,800 vibrations per hour that marked a brand new benchmark by way of precision; and 2021’s Reverso Tribute Small Seconds that includes a vintage-inspired inexperienced lacquer dial with matching leather-based strap, faceted hour markers, dauphine-style fingers, and small seconds at 6 o’clock.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Inexperienced on the wrist (photograph courtesy Peter Tung)
Exhibiting off the potential of the Reverso’s metallic case as an inexhaustible canvas for creative expression that’s continually being reinvented by the maison’s artisans, guests may even enjoyment of a 1949 mannequin bearing a painted portrait of Hindu King Rama commissioned by an Indian consumer, the 2006 Reverso à Eclipses with Félix Ziem’s depiction of nineteenth-century Constantinople on the dial facet quite than the again, a 2016 high-jewelry model paved with aventurine and diamonds, and the brand new Reverso One Valuable Flowers mixing engraving, enameling, and gem-setting.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso with Kirifuri Waterfall enamel miniature portray by Hokusai
As Jaeger-LeCoultre makes a speciality of miniature reproductions of masterpiece work in enamel, the exhibition additionally shows Hokusai’s Kirifuri Waterfall, Gustave Courbet’s Vue du Lac Léman, Vincent van Gogh’s Sundown at Montmajour, and Gustav Klimt’s Portrait of a Girl. A craftsperson demonstrates learn how to apply perlage, and guests may even strive their fingers at creating this ornamental pearl sample consisting of small circles utilized to a metallic floor.
A specifically commissioned movie takes viewers contained in the Jaeger-LeCoultre manufacture to find the creation of a Reverso by means of the phrases of the artisans and watchmakers themselves, accompanied by a pop-up boutique and a black-and-white Artwork Deco café on the highest ground showcasing desserts by Parisian pastry chef Nina Métayer, which seize the scents and flavors of the Vallée de Joux, the birthplace of Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Rounding off the exhibition, the Atelier d’Antoine hands-on workshop – named after Antoine LeCoultre – has been relocated from the manufacture to Paris, providing horology lovers and novices alike the chance to find what goes into making a high-quality mechanical timepiece by means of interactive theoretical studying and sensible coaching guided by a watchmaker and teacher.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Atelier d’Antoine Reverso Discovery Workshop
The Reverso Discovery Workshop delves into the within story of the watchmaking icon, providing contributors entry to the Reverso archives, together with authentic sketches and patent paperwork not often proven to the general public, and the chance to assemble a Reverso case comprising greater than 50 parts.
The subsequent workshops (every 90 minutes lengthy and priced at €150) will happen on November 12, 19, and 20 and December 10 and 11. The exhibition is freed from cost to the general public, and reserving is really helpful at www.exposition-reverso.com.
“The Reverso is an icon of favor and magnificence,” Favre concludes. “For 9 many years, it has regularly reinvented itself with out ever compromising its id. We hope it would proceed to epitomize the spirit of modernity that impressed its creation now and in 90 years.”
Reverso: Timeless Tales Since 1931 runs till December 24, 2021 at 15 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré within the 8th arrondissement of Paris. Entrance to the exhibition is free.
For extra data, please go to www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/eu/en/chronicles/exposition-reverso-paris.
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