Louis Vuitton has the benefit of not traditionally coming from an haute horlogerie background. This leaves the model greatest identified for its leather-based and excessive trend numerous latitude to play with watches. And Louis Vuitton undoubtedly makes use of this benefit to create some very unorthodox timepieces.
For followers of conventional excessive watchmaking, this may be barely disorienting. However for followers of Louis Vuitton and people with a broader imaginative and prescient of haute horlogerie it may be a revelation. Which aspect you fall on is totally as much as your personal style and sensibilities.
And whereas style is subjective, the standard of a bit of excessive watchmaking could by no means be in query. This crossroad is exactly the place Louis Vuitton excels. Utilizing one of the best supplies, conventional watchmaking methods, and most ingenious watchmakers, Louis Vuitton efficiently performs with distinctive design and weird shapes.
One factor I discover enjoyable about Louis Vuitton is its innate sense of playfulness and devil-may-care angle – one thing all too seen in 2021’s Carpe Diem, an automat created exactly to be audacious and kooky. It was typically nicely obtained, even by traditionalists, which led to it profitable a prize on the 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

It’s 10:10 on the Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum (picture courtesy Ulysse Frechelin/Louis Vuitton)
Audacious in visuals, conventional watchmaking nonetheless
Louis Vuitton is unquestionably distinctive in the best way it concentrates on each its actions and its design – delightfully and with a passionate angle towards each.
The model’s uncommon method has actually characterised it since not less than 2009 when it started working with La Fabrique du Temps, the very inventive complication specialist based by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. By 2011, Louis Vuitton had bought La Fabrique du Temps and by 2014 had consolidated its La Chaux-de-Fonds- and Geneva-based provider holdings – together with dial making and La Fabrique du Temps – into one facility in Meyrin, whose sole objective is to create and craft Louis Vuitton’s ingenious excessive watchmaking.
Right here 16 watchmakers and a number of different technicians, designers, and artistic heads work collectively to provide 300-400 excessive watchmaking timepieces per yr, lots of that are bespoke commissions for personal shoppers.
Right this moment, this inventive angle is apparent in talking with the management of the model within the watch sector. However much more astounding is the benefit with which Michel Navas, head of La Fabrique du Temps, has embraced the angle and beliefs of the youthful Jean Arnault, now 23 years outdated and advertising director of Louis Vuitton’s watches and wearables.
Whereas we’ve got not but seen the fruits of their clearly mutual admiration – Arnault has particular concepts for the long run as does Navas – the Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum appears to suit proper in with all I’d heard from the duo over the course of the 2 days the model spent introducing its 2022 excessive watchmaking items. Arnault and Navas haven’t revealed plans for Louis Vuitton’s excessive watchmaking future, however one factor is definite: they do plan to proceed to be shocking and to attraction to at the moment’s shopper. And that is prone to end in barely totally different merchandise than what we’ve seen so far.

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum at its introduction in Megève
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum: so lit
It’s been 20 years since Louis Vuitton launched its Tambour assortment in 2002.
Tambour is French for “drum,” and the model christened the gathering with this identify due to its case form. As Louis Vuitton isn’t initially a watch model, it’s all the extra spectacular that it was capable of create a design like this that basically works for it.
Whereas the circumstances of the Tambour line look huge – large in some circumstances (see the above-mentioned Carpe Diem) – their signature quick lugs and easy case again permit the case to put on very comfortably on the wrist regardless of the scale.
And let’s be truthful right here: it’s my opinion that individuals shopping for watches from this model need their watches to be observed. The dimensions and form of the Tambour case all however ensures that.

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum in low-light situations (however with out cubes activated)
Which brings me to the newest timepiece by Louis Vuitton: the Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum, a watch designed to proceed the intelligent Spin Time Air idea whereas bringing two noticeable issues to the desk that weren’t there earlier than: a barely extra toned-down Tambour case and micro-electronically lit luminous cubes.
The Spin Time is Louis Vuitton’s tackle the standard bounce hour. Launched in 2009, it foregoes the standard “bounce disk” show to as an alternative present the time by cubes that flip to disclose the time. This makes the show wildly three-dimensional.
The Louis Vuitton Spin Time shows the hour very creatively: 12 cubes on the dial spell out L-O-U-I-S-V-U-I-T-T-O-N. The one displaying the present hour is proven in reverse colours. This dice turns round when the hour passes, returning to its uniform shade, at which level the subsequent dice revolves to show the following hour. The minutes are displayed by a central hand.
The result’s a watch that’s simpler to learn than could be anticipated, has its personal distinct character, and is – nicely – enjoyable.
Caliber LV 68 was developed by La Fabrique du Temps to seem as if it floats inside the case, an impact heightened by the inky drum-shaped housing and the luminous cubes, which actually push the watch ahead into a brand new place as one thing that might nicely attraction to a youthful crowd.
The 12 cubes on the Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum spelling out L-O-U-I-S-V-U-I-T-T-O-N illuminate on demand, activated by pushing a button within the crown. Micro electronics mild up the cubes, a dozen tiny light-emitting diodes (LED) positioned immediately on the highest face of every dice, lighting up the Spin Time show from inside, illuminating every dice individually.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum on the wrist and illuminated
The Spin Time cubes are normally milled from aluminum for lightness, however on this case they’re crafted in fused silica, a glass made of just about pure silicon dioxide, in a laborious manufacturing course of that entails a lot increased working temperatures than the manufacture of common glass. Fused silica is most frequently used for precision purposes like optical lenses and semiconductors.
The precision electronics meeting comprising a hoop of 12 LEDs, an built-in circuit, and two batteries is adroitly hidden below the flange. The system might be activated six to seven occasions each day for 3 years earlier than these batteries will want changing. A refined ring on the base of the crown acts as a battery-level indicator and lights up together with the cubes when the button is pressed. Conversely, it glints when it’s time for the batteries to get replaced.
The cubes stay lit so long as the pusher is held and stay so for one more three seconds after the wearer has stopped urgent the button.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum (picture courtesy Ulysse Frechelin/Louis Vuitton)
The luminous show of the Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum is offset by a matte-black DLC-coated titanium case and the barest trace of gearing within the heart. The motion containing a contemporary interpretation of Maltese Cross gearing to carry out the bounce performance is roofed by a visual plate that has been historically completed with côtes de Genève. However in a twist worthy of this watch, the plate and its sample are coated with jet-black DLC and overlaid with the Louis Vuitton Monogram in yellow Tremendous-LumiNova.
On the sapphire crystal case again, the watch is adorned with a metallized emblem reinterpreting the Louis Vuitton Monogram as a circuit board.
This extension of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air assortment is partaking and attention-grabbing not regardless of, however due to, the micro-electronics. However not solely.
Fast Details Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum
Case: 42.5 x 12.3 mm, black DLC-coated titanium
Dial: 12 fused silica cubes with 12 LEDs for illumination
Motion: computerized Caliber LV 68 with 35-hour energy reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, battery-powered illumination machine with 103 elements
Capabilities: bounce hours, minutes; digital illumination
Limitation: 100 items
Worth: $93,000
* This text was first revealed 24 March 2022 at Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum: “Lit” Non-Conventional Excessive Watchmaking.
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