Mars Shinshu Japanese Whiskies: Excessive-Altitude Hearth And Ice – Reprise

Once we seemed on the fantastic whiskies of Ichiro Akuto at Chichibu, I discussed that in his magnificent guide on Japanese whisky, The Method of Whisky, Dave Broom devoted a whole chapter to these fabulous spirits. Few producers have been so honored. We don’t should go fairly so far as Mars to seek out one other, however it’s a clue. Broom allotted a whole chapter to the whiskies of Mars Shinshu.

Mars Shinshu is three hours’ drive northwest from Tokyo towards the southern Alps. At an altitude of 800 meters it’s the highest distillery in Japan.

Why is it known as Mars? The mum or dad firm, Hombo Shuzo Co. Ltd, determined to carry a contest to call the brand new distillery. It already owned a Shochu (a Japanese drink that may be distilled from rice, candy potatoes, barley, buckwheat, or seemingly any variety of different objects) known as Star Treasury, so the suggestion that the brand new plant be known as “Mars” appeared cheap.

It caught (and gained). Since then, the title appears to have bounced round between Mars, Shinshu, and Mars Shinshu. Shinshu pertains to regionality.

Mars Shinshu whisky distillery in Japan

Mars Shinshu historical past and distilleries

The distillery was established on this distant locale largely due to the standard of the water. Broom calls it “rock-polished, softened, and ample.” It registers as water with low minerality. The temperature can be essential, starting from summer time highs of 30°C to winter lows of -10°C. There are additionally important diurnal adjustments throughout summers, that are brief; winters are lengthy.

Standard knowledge has Japanese whisky starting when Shinjiro Torii and distiller Masataka Taketsuru (often known as the forefathers of Suntory and Nikka) went to Scotland in 1920 to be taught the craft.

Taketsuru was despatched by Kijiro Iwai from the agency of Settsu Shozu, and it was to him that Taketsuru returned together with his report. Sadly Settsu Shozu had collapsed by this stage, and Taketsuru ultimately joined Torii at Yamasaki. Iwai might need been a behind-the-scenes operator, however his contributions didn’t slip beneath the radar. He was named within the high 100 most influential individuals within the historical past of whisky, one in every of solely 4 Japanese to be so honored.

A number of a long time later, in 1960, Iwai’s son-in-law, then in control of Hombo, started whisky distillation within the Yamanashi area (the household had first taken out a license in 1949 but it surely was a decade earlier than manufacturing started – within the interim, they merely blended grain and malt for different producers).

Regardless of Iwai’s experience and Taketsuru’s report, utilized by Iwai to design Mars’ first stills by 1969, it additionally collapsed. The early whiskies have been thought of too heavy and too smoky for the native palate.

9 years later, Hombo had one other crack at it, making very small quantities of whisky in tiny stills – it was in impact a micro-distillery. In 1985, the unique Yamanashi stills have been taken to the Mars website, however with the native lack of curiosity in whisky in these days and the doubling of taxes, by 1992 there was, but once more, a closure, by way of a transfer to distilling brandy. The type of whisky from the brand new website was a lot lighter and located followers, however, alas, it was to not be.

In 2011, it was up and working once more, the explosion of curiosity in Japanese whisky helping this revival, however one wonders simply how assured they got each earlier try at genesis was adopted by a seemingly inevitable terminus. Present supervisor of the distillery is Koki Takehira.

Simply as we now have seen the revival of ghost distilleries in Scotland – distilleries which have lengthy since disappeared, however whose whiskies had sometimes been left to mature for generally a long time, though demand is seeing these shares heading to extinction – so too has it occurred in Japan. And up to now, so good!

Takehira was initially a brewer and has allowed that have to affect his type of whiskies. These are early days, significantly when in comparison with the centuries of expertise loved by Scottish distilleries, and Takehira remains to be working to determine the home type.

“Looking for its soul,” he calls it, and off to an exquisite begin. At this stage, the whiskies seem like from the elegant and sophisticated finish of the spectrum, and there’s a mild sweetness, extra so than present in most Japanese whiskies. Mars Shinshu has talked of closely peated kinds, however that has not likely emerged from any of the whiskies I’ve seen as but.

These items take time.

Whisky stills on the Mars Shinshu distillery in Japan

Takehira is experimenting with the situation (and altitude) of the casks used for growing old, provided that completely different situations with humidity and temperature present various outcomes. In doing this, Mars Shinshu constructed a facility for growing old whiskies on the tiny island of Yakushima, a World Heritage website – whiskies from each of the distilleries are aged right here.

It ought to be famous that Yakushima is just not a World Heritage website due to its contribution to whisky growing old, however as a result of there’s a assembly of the Palearctic and oriental biotic areas, which ends up in a wealthy flora with some 1,900 species/subspecies, together with the traditional sugi, a Japanese cedar, and remnants of a novel warm-temperate historical forest.

The experimentation extends to completely different yeasts and in addition malts. In different phrases, these whiskies are very a lot a piece in course of, however always conserving the legacy of Iwai in thoughts.

In 2016, a second distillery, the Tsunuki Distillery, was opened in Kagoshima. This extra southerly location, certainly the southernmost distillery in Japan, is a return to the heavier malts and richer whiskies, a method that may be very a lot related to Kijiro Iwai. Between them, they’re producing a variety of whiskies, although at this stage, nonetheless of restricted manufacturing.

Tasting notes: Mars Shinshu whiskies

Iwai Custom Wine Cask End Whisky

Blended in the identical spirit because the Isai Custom Blended Whisky beneath however aged in casks previously used for Cabernet Sauvignon (I perceive Pinot Noir casks are additionally sometimes used).

Iwai Custom Wine Cask End Whisky

The colour may be very darkish and there’s a malty treacle word with a touch of chocolate and honey. Advanced and concentrated. Finely centered. Florals, darkish cherry, and even a touch of orange blossom. There may be underlying energy right here. Glorious size. A terrific whisky with glorious size and good texture. An extended clear end. 92.

40 %. AUD$125.

Iwai Custom Blended Whisky

A pot-still blended whisky with a bronzed honey shade. Aged in a mixture of sherry casks, bourbon casks, American white oak, and Japanese Mizunara casks.

Iwai Custom Blended Whisky

Florals with orange rind notes. An outdated oak character. A agency end with excellent size and steadiness all through. Spices, even the looks of a touch of white pepper. A contact of ginger. This has a lighter texture however there’s nonetheless richness to be discovered right here. 90.

40 %. AUD$110.

Komagatake Single Malt Restricted Version 2019 Whisky

Komagatake refers back to the native mountains. A Restricted Version, the variety of bottles not confirmed however believed to be within the neighborhood of 10,000. Non-chill filtered. Aged for 4 to 6 years – do not forget that it’s early days for this distillery, and it’s nearly humbling to suppose what these guys will likely be doing in one other decade or two with extra aged materials.

Komagatake Single Malt Restricted Version 2019 Whisky

It’s chosen from barrels aged on the highest shelf of the rack home on the Shinshu Distillery as it’s thought of that that is the place maturation occurs quickest. A pale yellow/gold. Brilliantly advanced with that mild sweetness. Florals, spice, lemon blossoms, and stone fruit. There’s a sea breeze/oyster shell word. Hearth and ice. Size is fabulous and there’s an interesting softness. It is a fantastic whisky. 94.48 %. AUD$280.

* This text was first printed on February 9, 2021 at Mars Shinshu Japanese Whiskies: Excessive-Altitude Hearth And Ice.

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