No Longer Made: Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Restricted-Version Watch

Hiding someplace amongst the Freaks and the Mega Yachts and all of the intercourse, Swiss watchmaker Ulysse Nardin has the quiet and conservative Marine assortment. Each every so often, the model tries out one thing new to offer the lineup a little bit of an edge. 4 years in the past, it launched a set of 4 limited-edition watches within the Marine Torpilleur mannequin line, to that very finish. This appeared to be a part of the model rediscovering its historical past and DNA in making army chronometers, in addition to an experiment in producing a modern-looking however classic-feeling timepieces (a key purpose of the model). A kind of restricted version of 300-piece watches was the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Black, reference 1183-320LE/BLACK.

I’ll summarize my emotions about this watch by saying that I’m glad it was a restricted version. As a design experiment, it was beautiful in aesthetic and enjoyable in character. The Marine Torpilleur did nonetheless have some options that have been greatest left to restricted manufacturing items and never full-scale manufacturing. That made it neat, and collectible, nevertheless it had some quirks value discussing. None ought to have been a deal breaker for anybody who was emotionally invested in the feel and appear of this good-looking watch.

The 4 limited-edition Marine Torpilluer watches launched in 2019 (which adopted two related editions launched the earlier yr) embrace a barely costlier mannequin in a bronze case, in addition to three metal fashions – every with a really particular kind of “industrial” bead-blasted ending. This was the one mannequin in black, and it had an “all-black” look that was properly accomplished provided that each the case and dial match fairly nicely collectively. The black was a PVD-coating over the bottom stainless-steel. In case you have a better look, you’ll understand it didn’t examine with most different bead-/sand-blasted ending types you see on different luxurious watches. The ending appeared very industrial, like one thing you’d discover on a floor of an engine or machine store. It wasn’t low high quality, however I wouldn’t say it was luxurious both. It had a really factory-feel to it which is what I feel Ulysse Nardin was going for within the look, however I’m simply unsure it matched the character of an almost $8,000 watch. Maybe for 300 items, sure, however that is a type of areas the place I really feel that experiments utilized are cool, however don’t essentially belong in an ongoing-production mannequin Ulysse Nardin timepiece.

Let me proceed with the complaints as a result of there aren’t too many, and I wish to get them over with earlier than I focus on extra of what I like within the watch (and this subsequent assertion goes for all watchmakers who determine to pair their watches with a majority of these cloth straps). The canvas-style strap paired with the Marine Torpilleur Black was admittedly very engaging, and even nonetheless is on-trend.  It additionally matched the case and dial in a really trendy approach. By most accounts, it was a great-looking strap. The one drawback was that it, like most cloth straps, are so inflexible/stiff, that they have been uncomfortable to put on. I don’t learn about you, however I don’t suppose I ought to should wear-in a watch strap like a baseball glove for it to really feel snug. I would like it to really feel snug the primary time I put it on. It bothers me after I agitatedly want to regulate a watch on my wrist with the distant hope that the strap will “be higher” sooner or later.

The strap buckle didn’t work nicely both. It appeared good, however if you happen to take a look at its form, you’ll discover a pointy rounded protrusion that faces your internal wrist. This piece of the buckle really poked your wrist on a regular basis.  Ulysse Nardin was clearly experimenting with one thing new right here, and my pleasant recommendation to them would have been to think about transforming not solely the strap materials selections but in addition the buckles. The excellent news is that straps could be very simply changed.

The Marine Torpilleur case measured 44mm-wide and had an expansive look within the Black kind due to how the dial and bezel melded collectively color-wise. The case was fairly skinny at 12mm and had a 50mm lug-to-lug distance with a water resistance score of fifty meters (perhaps a watch with “Marine” within the title may need needed to intention for no less than 100 meters?). The dials of all of the restricted editions have been the identical, however every had its personal enjoyable coloration palette. Right here we have now an all-matte dial with markers and arms. Like conventional marine clocks produced by Ulysse Nardin, the Marine Torpilleur face was a paragon of fine proportions and legibility. Take a look at that nice distinction and people properly-sized arms. I wish to present this dial to observe designers I encounter who’re considerably shy about making arms so long as they should be.

One factor you’ll discover is that, in comparison with many different Ulysse Nardin Marine watches, there isn’t a energy reserve indicator on the dial. This characteristic was taken out for model, and I feel this extra utilitarian look had a function for present. At current, you may’t purchase a Marine Torpilleur and not using a energy reserve indicator, which is a disgrace. The novel look of this theme with out the ability reserve indicator helped so as to add taste to the bigger Marine assortment – which generally has fashions which wrestle to differentiate themselves visually. One of many neat collector’s options on the dial was that the restricted version quantity for the watch was positioned in pink textual content on the dial of the watch. The restricted version quantity was additionally positioned on the facet of the case in a extra conventional Ulysse Nardin model, full with cursive font. What does the “C.W.” stand for on the dial? I’m fairly positive it means “Chronometer Watch.”

The dial luminant was not as expansive as I had thought. Ulysse Nardin painted the watch arms and factors across the hour markers in luminescent materials. Which means the engaging Arabic numerals that seemed to be in luminous materials, really are usually not. Over the dial was a barely domed sapphire crystal. I feel it may have benefited from a bit extra AR-coating materials. The watch crown screwed down and was secured in what looks like a really strong crown stem tube as soon as it’s screwed in place. The rear of the case was screwed in place and featured a motif of what’s purported to be…the view from a torpilleur (torpedo boat) onto maybe …a goal? I’ve seen different watches and historical past associated to those fascinating World Battle II-era torpedo boats. What I discover type of amusing is that the boats themselves aren’t really very engaging, and apart from the torpedoes themselves (a violent weapon) nobody has fairly discovered methods to catch the flattering facet of the standard torpilleur. In any case, the watches that commemorate these historic army vessels could make up for it with actual enchantment.

Lastly, we get to the motion within the Marine Torpilleur restricted version, and that was the very compelling in-house Ulysse Nardin Calibre UN-118 automated motion. As I alluded to above, this similar motion additionally comes with an influence reserve indicator in one other kind, and may be a bit thinner on this configuration with simply the time and subsidiary seconds indicator. What I actually like in regards to the UN-118 motion is that the 4Hz frequency mechanism (60 hours of energy reserve) makes liberal use of Diamonsil-coated silicon. Ulysse Nardin developed a manufacturing unit that has the flexibility to place a diamond-like coating over silicon. What this does is markedly scale back the brittleness of silicon and thus take away considered one of its precept weaknesses. The overwhelming majority of different watches, even these with silicon components, don’t make use of this know-how. Silicon within the mechanical automated motion permits it to be extra correct over time and resistant to sure forms of environmental affect (like temperature and magnetism), which negatively have an effect on wristwatch accuracy. Not that Ulysse Nardin actually wants the paper to show something, however the UN-118 motion within the Marine Torpilleur got here with a COSC Chronometer certification.

As a restricted version of 300 items, amongst a set of 4 different equally good-looking restricted watches (the colours Ulysse Nardin selected to go collectively are really lovely), the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur was as enjoyable because it was unique. This was a profitable style experiment to see if a core Ulysse Nardin look may fulfill a style trade perpetually concerned with army model. These watches have been inherently trendy, however with a pleasant foot previously which gave them a heat, acquainted character. The army model in such a watch is actually extra on the civilized facet versus macho, which I feel helps enhance its enchantment. Having mentioned all that, Ulysse Nardin made a couple of questionable judgments when it got here to a number of the extra minor particulars of the watch – probably the most severe of which (the strap) might be simply remedied. The bigger 44mm broad case dimension (versus the 42 of the usual Marine Torpilleur assortment) and the shortage of an influence reserve indicator may have been the inspiration for an thrilling enchancment or enlargement of the gathering, however it seems that within the years since, the model has caught with the same old Torpilleur fare. Whereas not out there from the model, we discovered used examples of the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur restricted version of 300 items reference 1183-320LE/BLACK listed as little as $4,750 USD. Discover the present Marine Torpilleur assortment on the Ulysse Nardin web site right here.

Essential Knowledge
>Model: Ulysse Nardin
>Mannequin: Marine Torpilleur Restricted Version Black, reference 1183-320LE/BLACK
>Worth: Used from $4,750 USD
>Measurement: 44mm-wide, approx. 12mm-thick, and approx. 50mm lug-to-lug distance.
>When reviewer would personally put on it: As a modern-feeling, fashion-forward but traditional-feeling in character luxurious military-style watch.
>Good friend we’d suggest it to first: Anybody wanting a traditional-looking luxurious watch with a little bit of an energetic really feel and a fashionably daring coloration palette.
>Greatest attribute of watch: This and its 4 companion restricted version Marine Torpilleur watches are all very engaging visually. The scale and thickness of the case look good on the wrist and the general dial proportions work very nicely. This can be a nice basis for Ulysse Nardin to construct upon.
>Worst attribute of watch: Strap materials alternative is stiff (wants numerous breaking in) and buckle can jut into wrist. Dial would have been extra thrilling if the Arabic numerals have been additionally painted with Tremendous-LumiNova. Stamped caseback torpedo boat surroundings motif lacks a lot inventive or emotional character.