When pondering Speedmaster, you’ll instantly take into account the traditional Moonwatch, the Skilled mannequin that’s coincidentally the direct descendant of the watches that made it to area. This assertion is, after all, partially proper, however not full. Because the Seventies, the Speedmaster is greater than a watch, it’s a set. Alongside the Moonwatch, the heritage fashions powered by the Calibre 321, the female assortment, the Chronoscope or the big Racing fashions, the model additionally has a vintage-inspired watch with trendy mechanics, the Speedmaster 57. And at present, within the body of the sixty fifth anniversary of the watch born in 1957, Omega offers the latter an entire revamp. From case to motion or proportions, virtually all the pieces adjustments, and this new Omega Speedmaster 57 Calibre 9906 40.5mm Assortment ticks many packing containers.
Alongside the Speedmaster Racing and its 44.25mm case, the Speedmaster 57 and its 41.5mm diameter represents the trendy aspect of the gathering, a minimum of technically talking, as each had been, till now, powered by the automated in-house two-counter column-wheel chronograph motion (calibre 9300 or 9900). Launched in 2013, barely revised in 2015, the Speedmaster 57 is a watch that mixes a design with retro-styled components – such because the symmetrical case, a brushed metal tachymeter bezel or broad-arrow palms on some fashions – with modernly sized case and Twenty first-century motion structure. If the Moonwatch is the worthy descendant of the watch worn on the Moon, the Speedmaster 57 must be seen as a watch that pays tribute to the origins of the mannequin, with out wanting within the mirror in the case of know-how.
But, this assortment has by no means acquired a particularly heat welcome, being typically ignored in comparison with its Majesty the Moonwatch. There have been many good issues to see on this watch, resembling the mix of classic components and trendy motion, but the steadiness was not excellent. One thing was not completely working… However the revamped assortment for 2022 corrects many issues and comes with tons of arguments beneath its sleeve. In actual fact, virtually all the pieces has modified visually and mechanically. What stays true is the mix of classic components (which have been bolstered) and trendy motion, which has been drastically modified for this new assortment.
Let’s begin with the habillage. The brand new Omega Speedmaster 57 assortment stays true to the general thought of paying tribute to the 1957 CK 2915 however adjustments many issues in comparison with the previous model. The case is smaller at 40.5mm now, and thinner at 12.99mm (smaller and thinner than a Moonwatch). The general design retains components from early Speedmaster watches, such because the symmetrical case with straight, sharp lugs with a lateral bevel, the unprotected crown and pushers, or the brushed metal bezel with tachymeter scale – the latter is laser engraved on the bezel after which laser-coloured too, a brand new know-how for Omega.
The whole lot has been revised, just like the width of the bezel or the tachymeter scale is a so-called DON (dot-over-ninety) as an ode to the previous. This thinner, smaller case really fits the watch and makes it a really interesting mannequin for many who desire a extra traditional, barely extra formal possibility than the Moonwatch and its skilled apparel. Water-resistance is rated at 50 metres and the case includes a field sapphire crystal on prime and a screwed caseback with a sapphire window.
The dial has additionally been revised, but in a barely extra refined means. The palms at the moment are so-called broad-arrow on all of the fashions, however not all dials are equivalent. It’s introduced in 4 colors; alongside an all-time traditional black, you’ll discover sunray-brushed dials in darkish blue, burgundy and darkish inexperienced. The black dial is sand-blasted matte, with recessed markers for the hours with a so-called “sandwich” model. Alternatively, the three different colors options utilized markers for the hours. All components are full of beige Tremendous-LumiNova, but the black one comes with old-radium lume, whereas the three different dials, with a extra trendy contact, have white luminescent materials. Similar goes for the tracks and printings, matching the color of the SLN. The show hasn’t modified in comparison with the earlier model, with the comeback of the two-counter structure. The sub-counter at 9 o’clock signifies the operating seconds, whereas the one at 3 o’clock is a co-axial counter that reveals elapsed instances with two palms (minutes and hours) on a 12-hour base. The elapsed seconds are central and a date window sits at 6 o’clock.
Below the sapphire caseback, and actually filling the complete area accessible is a brand new motion, the hand-wound in-house Calibre 9906. This motion can be acquainted to common readers and followers of Omega, because it shares its structure with the recently-launched Chronoscope. The one distinction right here is the presence of a date complication. Primarily based on the automated 9900, it reveals a big ¾ plate on the again with radiating stripes. The structure is, to the exception of the automated module eliminated, the identical as earlier than, with a column-wheel and vertical clutch chronograph system, a double-barrel structure used to offer secure torque with 60h energy reserve, and a 4Hz frequency to provide a exact indication of the elapsed seconds.
Like all trendy Omega actions, this hand-wound calibre includes a co-axial escapement, is Grasp Chronometer-certified and is anti-magnetic to spectacular ranges (15,000 gauss and extra…) The ornament is typical Omega, clear and refined, but because of the giant bridge, the motion isn’t very demonstrative. However it actually is a giant motion in a small case.
All colors of the brand new Omega Speedmaster 57 Calibre 9906 is offered both on a gradient-coloured leather-based strap closed by a metal pin buckle or on a newly-designed metal bracelet. Impressed by the previous flat-link bracelets of the Nineteen Fifties/60s, it has a thinner profile now with brushed and polished surfaces. This new design matches the small case enormously. The folding clasp options the consolation launch adopted by Omega on the brand new Moonwatch, permitting for a 2.3mm extension throughout sizzling days.
Availability & Worth
The brand new Omega Speedmaster 57 Calibre 9906 40.5mm Assortment is launched with 8 references – every dial accessible both on a leather-based strap or on a metal bracelet – and is a part of the everlasting assortment. The worth is EUR 8,700 on leather-based strap and EUR 9,100 on metal bracelet.
For extra particulars, please go to omegawatches.com.