Within the music trade, when a band releases a compilation of its most profitable songs, it’s named “best-of” or “biggest hits.” At Omega, such a compilation is known as the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold. A watch that summarizes 65 years of Speedmaster, a watch that mixes one of the best from the previous and the long run. The whole lot that has been praised over 65 years within the Speedmaster, from its iconic design and motion on one facet, to the most recent developments in supplies and ending on the opposite, are packed on this watch. Certain, when it has been launched, this CK2915-inspired mannequin made some noise, being probably the most costly and most unique Speedies ever achieved. Fairly a departure from the utilitarian roots of the mannequin. However let’s take into account this watch the “Best Hits of the Speedmaster” and a watch that could be a celebration of every little thing Speedy…
it has develop into a recurring sample for Omega… Each first Tuesday of the 12 months comes an necessary, new Speedmaster-related watch. We’ve seen final 12 months the model new Moonwatch, the Speedmaster Skilled Grasp Chronometer. In 2020, Omega launched the Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321. And in 2019, the Biel-based manufacture introduced the re-introduction of the legendary Calibre 321, the Lemania-based motion that after powered the first-generation Speedmaster watches. And in 2022, we’ve been granted with this, a high-end, ultra-luxurious, modernly-manufactured, vintage-designed Speedmaster that mixes every little thing finest at Omega.
This 12 months marks the sixty fifth anniversary of the introduction of the Omega Speedmaster, in all probability probably the most iconic chronographs and watches ever made by the Swiss watch trade. The primary chronograph with an exterior bezel, the primary watch worn on the Moon, one of many few watches to be in fixed manufacturing because the late Nineteen Fifties… There are such a lot of tales to be informed in regards to the Speedmaster that we’d higher keep away from this matter at this time.
What issues is that after once more, Omega releases a watch that’s straight impressed by the very first mannequin, the 1957 Speedmaster CK2915-1. It isn’t a primary, because the model did so in 2017, for the Sixtieth-anniversary assortment – additionally paying tribute to the Seamaster 300 and the Railmaster – with a really devoted (visually at the least) re-edition, in stainless-steel, with a comparatively affordable value. Nevertheless, whereas the model may have used the identical recipe because the Ed White-inspired Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321 – perceive one-to-one copy of the habillage and historic 321 motion inside – Omega has determined with the 1957-inspired Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus to go in a special course. A course that may definitely be mentioned, however that’s totally assumed by the model. Visually, the CK2915 is undeniably right here. Mechanically, properly, the motion is as shut as it could possibly get. Materials-wise, this can be a fully completely different story.
CK2915-1 appears to be like, 2022 supplies
Design-wise, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold is a no-surprise watch, for one of the best of the worst (relying on how you want or not the Speedmaster). Followers of the fashions shall be blissful to see a case and all different parts of the habillage faithfully recreated, with dimensions and shapes exactly modelled after the CK2915-1 (at the least, when these watches had been new). And in that vein, it means a central case that’s equivalent to the Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321. The case, similar to the 1957 mannequin, measures 38.6mm in diameter for a top of about 13.9mm, and a lug-to-lug measurement of 48mm – these “straight lugs” circumstances have all the time been fairly lengthy. The distinction with the Ed White by way of diameter must be accounted to the bezel of the latter, which protrudes from the case. In any other case, it’s the identical.
As an alternative of a Hesalite artificial crystal, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus depends on a contemporary sapphire crystal, which however is formed nearly like within the outdated days – it is likely to be a bit boxier and fewer curved. Omega went all the way in which to recreate the Ω emblem within the centre, above the fingers’ stem. Water-resistance is rated at 60 metres (which is, for an unknown motive, 10 metres greater than the trendy Moonwatch) and the crown, equivalent to the unique in form and design, has the so-called NAIAD emblem. The pump pushers are additionally modelled after the unique 1957 mannequin. Ending is basic, with a mixture of polished and brushed surfaces and the execution is… typical Omega. Clear, ultra-precise, stable.
Lastly, the exterior bezel – an necessary aspect of the design of the Speedy – mimics the look of the unique CK2915-1, being product of brushed metallic, with a contrasting black tachymeter scale (one thing that clearly defines the look of the earliest variations). It has the basic 1957 font and markers, with dot over ninety (DON) and a dot diagonal to seventy, the “base 1000” calculation and the old-school “tachymètre” point out.
However now, we now have to enter science and trendy supplies, and high-end manufacturing methods. As a result of certainly, as indicated by its identify, the Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold is just not a metal watch. Its case is product of Canopus Gold, a proprietary alloy, product of 75% of gold, 20% of palladium, and 5% of rhodium and platinum. The concept, similar to with Sedna gold, is to supply an alloy that’s extra proof against put on and fade, as its color will keep much more white throughout the years. All parts of the case and bracelet are achieved on this particular alloy – and sure, the watch is kind of heavy (properly over 200 grams) – and that features the bezel. The latter additionally depends on a high-end course of so as to create the size, which is first engraved after which stuffed with grand feu enamel. It will guarantee extra sturdiness.
Historic, but modernized bracelet
One thing that tremendously participated within the enchantment of the Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321 was its bracelet, and this Canopus mannequin has the identical. A so-called “flat-link” impressed by the bands utilized by Omega within the late Nineteen Fifties and early Sixties, it measures 19mm on the case, tapers to 15mm on the clasp and its hyperlinks are comparatively skinny, offering classic look and trendy consolation. It combines polished exterior hyperlinks with brushed central hyperlinks and its building is definitely spectacular. Adjustment in size is finished by way of screws and the general feeling, emphasised by way of gold, is that of high-quality manufacturing.
What’s new on this watch is the presence of a clasp that mixes classic look and modernity. In comparison with the 105.003 re-edition, it now comes with a micro-adjustment gadget, also referred to as “consolation launch”. It permits extending the size of the bracelet by a bit over 2mm, one thing sensible throughout summer time. Then again, it additionally means a clasp that’s barely thicker and longer. However nothing worrisome right here.
The onyx dial
The place the brand new Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold differs most from the 1957 reference CK2915-1 is on the dial. In brief, it’s not totally devoted however that dial is a magnificence. It’s a trendy interpretation of the fundamentals discovered within the 1957 watch, each by way of design and supplies.
At first, the dial of the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus is just not your basic painted or lacquered dial. It’s made with among the most refined supplies Omega has. It has a multi-layer building and is made largely of extremely polished, pitch-black shiny Onyx. The bottom is brass on that are utilized 3 sub-dials and sub-dial rings product of Onyx. The ultimate contact is an Onyx layer with cutouts, which has a small step on the periphery. The result’s fairly spectacular within the metallic, providing excellent reflections and depth, however possibly not one of the best for legibility. However sure, that shiny pitch-black dial is one thing really particular.
The remainder really feel fairly basic for a vintage-inspired Speedmaster watch, with the so-called Broad Arrow fingers, classic utilized Omega emblem, historically-relevant oval-shaped O for Omega and elongated minute markers. Being a treasured metallic model, Omega has opted for utilized hour markers as a substitute of painted markers. Arms and indices are product of basic 18k white gold, then coated by PVD therapy with Canopus gold. All parts are stuffed with Tremendous-LumiNova.
The Mighty calibre 321
This motion alone is a motive to think about this watch (and the metal Moonwatch Calibre 321). What we’re speaking about is a real copy of the historic Calibre 321. To recreate this motion, “The Omega Museum crew compiled in depth historic analysis and unique plans to reconstruct the motion as precisely as doable. Going even additional, additionally they used tomography expertise (digital scanning technique) to see contained in the true Speedmaster ST105.003 timepiece that astronaut Eugene “Gene” Cernan wore on the Moon throughout the Apollo 17 mission in 1972.” As such, many of the elements of the brand new Calibre 321 are equivalent to the elements discovered within the outdated Calibre 321. It’s produced in a devoted atelier contained in the Omega manufacture.
The Calibre 321, or Lemania 3210, is a basic chronograph with column wheel and horizontal clutch structure, working at a sluggish frequency of 18,000 vibrations/hour. Whether it is nearly equivalent to the historic motion, manufacturing strategies and machining have advanced and, in fact, the result’s a motion that feels extra trendy and is healthier completed. It’s now coated with Sedna gold and its energy reserve is barely longer now, with 55 hours.
One specificity of this Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold is its caseback. Certainly, for those who look intently, you’ll discover the seahorse/hippocampus emblem laser-engraved on its floor, but additionally a small element; it has a glowing blue eye. This characteristic outcomes from an Omega proprietary and patented course of, utilizing Liquidmetal expertise for the setting.
Conclusion, availability & value
The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold is a putting watch. It packs every little thing finest at Omega, in a barely overdone method. It’s not a business product, it’s a celebration of the Speedmaster with excessive horology in thoughts. All one of the best applied sciences and manufacturing methods that Omega has come to grasp over the previous years are reunited on this piece, which is actually full of high-end particulars. One may have anticipated a re-edition of the CK2915 achieved in the identical approach because the Moonwatch 321, however that may have presumably created a battle inside the gathering. This Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus is a hardcore, ultra-niche, ultra-exclusive mannequin. It’s a collector’s jewel. Like or not… that’s as much as you. If you’d like a CK2915-inspired metal watch, you may all the time take a look at the Sixtieth-anniversary mannequin, which continues to be barely undervalued for my part.
The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold (reference 318.104.22.168.01.001) is launched as a part of the everlasting assortment and isn’t restricted in numbers – as per Omega’s new technique. Don’t count on it to be produced in massive portions, nevertheless, as it is going to stay confidential. It’s delivered in a big picket field. All of that comes at a value, because the watch retails for EUR 80,000.
For extra particulars, please go to www.omegawatches.com.