2022 is shaping as much as be a landmark yr for Omega’s sports activities watches. This yr marks the sixty fifth anniversary for the Speedmaster sequence (together with the Seamaster 300 and the Railmaster), and the Swiss marque has seized the chance to kick off a yr of festivities with a brand new rendition of the 1957 unique. Combining a extremely trustworthy recreation of the very first Speedmaster with delicate materials enhancements and razor-sharp execution, the brand new Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 in 18K Canopus Gold is an ultra-premium love letter to the chronograph birthed the sequence.
Though it could share greater than a passing resemblance to earlier revivals of the unique Speedmaster, the 18K Canopus Gold case of this new Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 is all-new. Measuring in at a suitably classic 38.6mm in diameter, this case makes use of Omega’s proprietary alloy of white gold, platinum, rhodium, and palladium for a shiny and lustrous look in preliminary pictures. The general kind intently follows the sample of the 1957 unique, predating the signature Speedmaster “Moonwatch” look with parts like tapering straight lugs, easy vertical case sides, non-recessed piston pushers, and an insert-free engraved gold bezel. Though the radial brushing and black tachymeter scale give this an analogous really feel to different iterations of the 1957 Speedmaster design, Omega takes this acquainted component above and past its predecessors with its execution. To start with, though the engraved tachymeter scale options signature touches from the 1957 unique, together with the French “tachymètre” spelling, this scale additionally contains delicate nods to different early Speedmaster fashions together with the wanted “dot over 90” mark. The black fill for this scale is one other main step past the same old Speedmaster execution, with inky black Grand Feu enamel that ought to result in a extra nuanced sheen on the wrist than most comparable designs. Omega additionally leaves delicate tributes to the Speedmaster’s historical past all through the remainder of the case. For instance, along with the traditional Omega emblem, the three o’clock crown is engraved with the model’s NAIAD image for water resistance in homage to a number of ‘50s Speedmaster references. This new Calibre 321 does in actual fact have a slightly larger water resistance than the usual mannequin with a ranking of 60 meters, however this stays an Achilles heel for the sequence as a complete. Omega additionally provides a nod to Speedmaster historical past with the sapphire show caseback, which is overlaid with a line artwork rendition of the Omega hippocampus emblem that includes a single blue sapphire eye. Past making a hidden visible spotlight for the wearer to take pleasure in, that is one other tribute to the legacy of the Speedmaster line, as 65 years is historically celebrated because the blue sapphire anniversary.
Just like the case, the dial of the brand new Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 in 18K Canopus Gold is sort of similar to the 1957 unique, however elevates the acquainted design with a extra luxurious execution. The obvious change comes courtesy of the subdials, which abandon the sloping recessed form of the unique mannequin in favor of a steeper and extra dramatic cutout design. The signature Speedmaster indices are additionally clearly tweaked, transferring past the normal printed lume plots to incorporate utilized rectangles in Canopus Gold. Apart from these positive alterations, the structure is kind of similar to the traditional Speedmaster at a look. The broad arrow handset, stepped dial, utilized 12 o’clock Omega emblem, and even the large font used for the model emblem are all shared with the unique mannequin, however nearer inspection reveals the brand new mannequin’s extra ornate development. The traditional matte black dial end is gone right here, changed by a deeper, virtually mirror-like shiny floor in pictures. To realize this dramatic piano black look, Omega crafts the dial from CNC-machined polished onyx.
Naturally, Omega powers this new 18K Canopus Gold Speedmaster with its in-house handwound Calibre 321 motion. Moderately than an evolution or a reimagining of the traditional Omega Calibre 321 used from the ‘50s to the ‘70s, this new Calibre 321 is a real copy of the unique powerplant, and has develop into a fixture in high-end Speedmaster releases over the previous a number of years. Even the ending is pure classic Omega, with the ornately snaking plates and bridges completed in brushed pink gold with shiny gold highlights for the steadiness wheel and equipment practice. With that stated, the Calibre 321’s efficiency is equally vintage-inspired with a sluggish 18,000 bph beat price. Nonetheless, this regular frequency permits the motion a surprisingly sturdy 55 hours of energy reserve. Omega pairs the watch with a copy of the traditional Speedmaster “flat hyperlink” bracelet in 18K Canopus Gold. That includes a pointy mixture of even brushing and sharpening, this bracelet design provides the Speedmaster a flexible sporting edge in preliminary pictures.
Though it seems practically similar to its 1957 forebear at a look, the brand new Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 in 18K Canopus Gold elevates practically each a part of the design with luxurious new supplies and ending. The top end result pays a good-looking tribute to 65 years of chronograph historical past, whereas probably showcasing the way forward for top-end Speedmaster releases for years to return. The brand new Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 in 18K Canopus Gold is obtainable for buy now solely by way of Omega boutiques. Though not strictly a restricted version launch, manufacturing numbers will doubtless be far smaller than the usual sequence because of its MSRP of $81,000. For extra data, please go to the model’s web site.
English 