While you take a look at the core assortment of NOMOS, you’ll see that silvery-white dials and spherical, polished metal circumstances are the definitive look of a lot of the model’s watches. And primarily based on this look, the model has managed to create an especially constant and distinguishable assortment inside a mere 20-year interval. However NOMOS can be identified for including a contact of eccentricity on occasion, with small colored accents and a little bit of enjoyable and freshness in its trendy expression of the Bauhaus type. One of many dials that stands out from the group is the enticing Silvercut. And at the moment, we’ll take a more in-depth take a look at two very (very) completely different watches. One may be probably the most basic, the opposite the boldest…
These watches, surprisingly, have quite a bit in frequent and, on the identical, really feel fully completely different. They share the identical motion and the identical dial end, however every part else couldn’t be extra reverse. Take a look at these two watches subsequent to at least one one other, and I’m positive that you simply’ll make your alternative in lower than 1 second. However what they share in frequent is fairly vital.
The Silvercut dial
Apart from the youthful and extra vibrant dials discovered within the Membership or Tetra assortment, most basic fashions from the NOMOS vary – suppose Tangente, Metro, Ludwig, Orion, Ahoi or Zurich – have basic, galvanised or silver-plated dials with black or darkish blue printings, and possibly only a contact of color on the small seconds or the title of the watch. Fairly simple and efficient, however not what you’d name provocative. But, it’s additionally why we love NOMOS and why it has made a reputation for itself. On this trade, consistency has confirmed to be an important issue of success.
But, innovation and creativity are additionally vital to remain recent and to generate a wholesome dose of envy, and NOMOS is aware of handle these in a really environment friendly manner. It may be with using vivid, vivid color; it may be by creating heat and barely extra luxurious circumstances; or it may be, like right here, by creating one thing that displays the place the place NOMOS watches are designed – Berlin – with an industrial, minimalist, barely arty vibe and an excessive rigour that’s damaged by small, funky particulars.
The thought with the Silvercut dial was to create a texture, a graphic sample that was rigorous but additionally playful; that modifications in depth and color relying on the environment, the best way you put on the watch and the ambient mild. The way in which to attain the dial might have been easy… a metal plate with a brushed end. However no, NOMOS has determined to make issues extra difficult, ensuing on this Silvercut dial being fairly enticing within the metallic. The method – which isn’t fully disclosed – includes a coating made out of a mixture of gold and rhodium, creating depth within the color and metallic reflections, adopted by a wet-blasting course of to disclose the feel of the dial. And certainly, when wanting on the Silvercut dial carefully, you’ll see that it isn’t merely brushed. Additionally, relying on the ambient mild, it produces energetic reflections, from mild silver to darker gray, but additionally hotter or colder colors. The snailed and recessed small seconds additionally brings depth to those dials.
However, as you’ve seen, the dial isn’t every part. And relying on whether or not you select the Orion case or the Tetra case, the result’s radically completely different.
The NOMOS Orion Neomatik Silvercut
Let’s begin with probably the most basic Orion mannequin. This watch is, with the Tangente, probably the most conventional expression of NOMOS’ design, with clear traces, easy shapes and an nearly absence of bezel that leaves the main target primarily on the dial. Refined, restrained, it’s the basic magnificence “à la NOMOS.”
With this Orion Neomatik Silvercut, the model gives a watch that’s slender, elongated with a reasonably compact diameter of 38.5mm for its polished stainless-steel case. The habillage of the watch is diminished to the important, with nearly no bezel, straight and clear traces, an easy crown and a barely domed sapphire crystal. In the identical vein, the palms and indexes are discreet batons, however they’re finely executed, and regardless of being silver-coloured, they’ve greater than sufficient distinction – because of the polished floor – to supply nice legibility.
On the wrist, this slender and restrained apparel makes for a refined watch, one thing that the 8.7mm top solely reinforces. However, as all the time with the Orion, take into account that the lugs are lengthy and that it’s going to put on extra like a 41mm mannequin. As such, this makes the entire idea of the Silvercut dial very seen and current, and the feel mixed with small touches of pink (small seconds hand and motion title) provides the required contact of discreet eccentricity.
Powering this watch is the Neomatik motion, also called the in-house DUW 3001. This ultra-thin automated motion measures solely 3.2mm in top however is giant sufficient for the small-ish circumstances of the model, at 28.8mm. The specs are basic in any other case, with a 43h energy reserve and the presence of the in-house Swing system. The ornament is nice, with skinny ribbings and blued screws.
The NOMOS Orion Neomatik Silvercut is worn on a discreet black Horween Real Shell Cordovan strap. Usually closed by a pin buckle till 31 December, this watch comes solely geared up with the NOMOS deployant clasp. It retails for EUR 3,060.
Fast details: 38.5mm x 8.7mm – polished stainless-steel case, sapphire crystal, 50m water resistant – Silvercut dial with rhodium-plated and polished markers and palms – calibre DUW 3001, automated, 3Hz frequency, 43h energy reserve – 19mm black Shell Cordovan strap – reference 342
The NOMOS Tetra Neomatik Silvercut
This second mannequin couldn’t be extra completely different than the Orion. Every little thing on this watch is the whole reverse of the opposite mannequin. If the Orion is all about discretion and classicism, the Tetra is just probably the most putting watch of NOMOS.
The title Tetra makes is kind of clear what to anticipate from this watch. It’s Greek for “4 of one thing” and is a becoming title for such a sq. watch. And right here, I imply a genuinely sq. watch, with nothing rounded or angled. It’s a pure sq. of 33mm x 33mm with sharp angles, a design that you simply don’t fairly often in watchmaking; most sq. watches are hardly ever true squares and have rounded corners. That alone makes the Tetra a fairly distinctive watch. Additionally, regardless of the size that seem small on paper, the case has a diagonal of 46mm and thus way more wrist presence than you’d count on. It’s flat on all surfaces and mixed with double-stepped lugs. Sure, the NOMOS Tetra makes fairly a press release.
Opposite to the Orion, the Silvercut dial on the Tetra is mixed with printed numerals – that are shared with the Tangente – and blued palms. However on this context, it’s the horizontal sample that dominates the surroundings, and that’s so in line with the case itself. The commercial feeling is even stronger right here, and the best way this dial performs with spherical and sq. shapes is fairly fascinating… so long as you move the barrier of that sq. case – which, personally, I discover very troublesome.
Underneath the sapphire crystal is identical ultra-thin, automated in-house calibre DUW 3001 used within the abovementioned mannequin. Once more, this watch comes with a black strap crafted from Horween Real Shell Cordovan. However, till 31 December, this watch comes geared up with the Sport bracelet with no worth distinction. This metallic “strap” (sure, it appears extra like a strap than a bracelet) with its brushed end and skinny horizontal hyperlinks works very nicely with the dial’s texture and provides an much more putting contact to this watch. In fact, you may as well choose a basic leather-based strap later. The watch retails for EUR 3,140.
Fast details: 33mm x 33mm – polished stainless-steel case, sapphire crystal, 30m water resistant – Silvercut dial with metal, tempered blue palms and printed markers – calibre DUW 3001, automated, 3Hz frequency, 43h energy reserve – 20mm metal sports activities bracelet with winged clasp – reference 423
For extra particulars and on-line orders, please go to nomos-glashuette.com.