Parmigiani Fleurier‘s Tonda PF assortment was unveiled in September 2021, coinciding with the model’s 25th anniversary. Marking CEO Guido Terreni’s first assortment on the helm of the model, the Tonda PF, is a refined interpretation of an built-in bracelet timepiece (aka luxurious sports activities watch). The important thing ideas in the course of the improvement of the Tonda PF assortment had been understatement, class and superb craftsmanship, important options of Michel Parmigiani’s method to watchmaking at Parmigiani Fleurier since its basis in 1996. Clearly focusing on purists who don’t need to knock any individual’s tooth out with their XXL lumed-out chronograph, the Tonda PF is comprised of 4 fashions, together with the chronograph we’ll take a look at right this moment and the magnificent platinum split-seconds mannequin we reviewed earlier. Geared up with an built-in in-house chronograph motion with a column wheel and a excessive frequency of 5Hz, the case and dial mirror the elegant pared-down aesthetic pursued by the 2 males who’re defining the model’s roadmap: Michel Parmigiani and Guido Terreni.
Michel Parmigiani began his profession as a restorer of vintage timepieces, together with the priceless assortment of automata and clocks belonging to the Sandoz Household Basis. Speaking to Michel Parmigiani in 2015 for The Jewelry Editor, he described the distinctive pleasure of “liberating an vintage clock or a pocket watch from the ravages of time” and “the fantastic thing about respiration life into vintage objects“. His spectacular horological tradition and backing of the Sandoz Basis led to the creation of the model Parmigiani Fleurier in 1996.
Michel Parmigiani’s respect for the previous and his refined style have resulted in a really private array of watches that are actually represented by three most important households – Tonda, Toric and Kalpa. There are additionally ‘distinctive items’, just like the world’s first Hijri perpetual calendar fitted inside a wristwatch or the distinctive La Rose Carrée pocket watch, a fantastically restored 19th-century grande sonnerie and minute repeater motion housed in a surprising case showcasing the model’s excessive stage of creative crafts.
In January 2021, Guido Terreni, the person behind the exceptional turnaround of Bvlgari’s watch division with the modern ultra-thin record-breaking Octo Finissimo assortment, was appointed CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier. Accountable for Bvlgari’s watch division since 2009, Guido Terreni repositioned the Italian luxurious model as top-of-the-line world watch manufacturers. Our group met up with Terreni throughout Geneva Watch Days to report a video concerning the first Parmigiani Fleurier assortment launched beneath his tenure: the Tonda PF assortment.
As Terreni recognises, Michel Parmigiani has a really unbiased mindset, and Parmigiani Fleurier may be very a lot a distinct segment model. Parmigiani’s huge technical data is mixed with the “vital worth of understatement“, a characteristic that caters to a clientele with a style for refinement, not ostentation. The Tonda PF assortment, a luxurious sports activities watch line-up, captures many signature design codes of the model with what Terreni describes as a “sartorial consideration to element“.
Coinciding with PF’s 25th anniversary, the Tonda PF luxurious sports activities watch assortment was launched in 4 fashions: the pristine time & date Micro-Rotor mannequin, the high-frequency Chronograph, the Annual Calendar with retrograde date and the spectacular all-platinum Break up Seconds Chronograph. With out stepping into the interminable debate of whether or not or not the Tonda PF Assortment qualifies as a luxurious sports activities watch (please learn Brice’s in-depth article on this topic), the info are that it does have an built-in bracelet, it’s waterproof to 100 metres, and it doesn’t imitate the formed case of a Nautilus or a Royal Oak.
Shared options throughout all fashions are the PF brand in an oval cartouche, the grain d’orge guilloché dial sample (not featured on the split-seconds chrono), the gold delta-shaped skeletonised fingers, the knurled bezel, the quick utilized gold indices, and naturally, the high-end in-house actions.
The Tonda PF Chronograph
Additionally out there in 22k rose gold, we spent a while with the metal mannequin. The case, which measures 42mm throughout and has a peak of 12.4mm, is executed in stainless-steel with a platinum bezel. The screw-down crown for water resistance is flanked by two PF teardrop-shaped chronograph pushers that echo the signature PF teardrop lugs. Since this watch is all about refined particulars, the case shows a mixture of polished and satin-finished surfaces. The casebands and the interior hyperlinks of the built-in bracelet are finely satin-finished, and looking out intently, you possibly can see the skinny strains within the steel. The crown, pushers, and the floor of the bracelet’s exterior hyperlinks are brightly polished. It won’t be simple to understand, however the raised, stepped bezel, with its hand-knurled and hand-polished platinum periphery and polished inside, emits a whiter, extra radiant shine than metal. These of you accustomed to the model will recognise the hand-knurled bezel that can be featured on different Tonda and Toric fashions.
As Terreni factors out within the video, the streamlined but easy bracelet is sort of a second pores and skin and sits fantastically on the wrist due to its ergonomic design and hallmark teardrop lugs that stream so easily from the casebands.
There are a lot of references to tailoring within the model’s new communication technique – not stunning given Terreni’s Italian background and appreciation of Italy’s sartorial custom. The analogy works notably effectively when addressing the dial with its miniature guilloché grain d’orge sample that appears virtually like the fabric of a swimsuit. Not like many luxurious sports activities watches with stamped dials that appear to be guillochage, the PF Tonda dial is executed by hand in Fleurier utilizing a rose lathe machine; given the small measurement of the sample, it will need to have required a variety of magnifying gadgets and a really regular hand. Described as ‘Milano Blue’, the color of the dial is complemented by the three sub-dials with their greyish-blue rings that don’t disrupt the serene and impressively uncluttered dial. With 30-second and 12-hour chronograph registers at 3 and 9 o’clock and small seconds at 6 o’clock, the three sub-dials are additionally barely recessed and embellished with a micro-sandblasted blue background, similar to the date window at 4 o’clock. Fabricated from stable gold, the slim delta-shaped hour and minute fingers are openworked, whereas the chronograph fingers and small seconds are product of rhodium-plated metal.
One other novelty launched within the new Tonda PF assortment is the model brand positioned inside an oval cartouche appliqué at midday. Though Michel Parmigiani designed it as an indicator for treasured steel circumstances and to be engraved on actions, the medallion had by no means appeared on the dial earlier than. Eliminating the model identify inscribed in full was a good suggestion for this assortment, decreasing the quantity of data on the dial to pursue the ‘understated’ spirit outlined for the watches. The peripheral space of the dial incorporates a detailed sandblasted seconds/minutes monitor for the central chronograph hand. You’ll discover a really slight dip on the seconds monitor and the way the hand-applied white gold rhodium-plated indices relaxation on the monitor and lengthen onto the dial.
The sapphire crystal caseback reveals the in-house computerized calibre PF070, an built-in, high-frequency column-wheel chronograph motion with a 22k rose gold openworked rotor embellished with the PF medallion. A COSC-certified chronometer with a 5Hz/36,000vph frequency, the 315-component motion delivers a 65-hour energy reserve. Finishings are in keeping with PF’s excessive stage of watchmaking and embody hand-bevelled edges in addition to sandblasted and polished particulars on the rotor.
Availability and Value
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph in metal with blue dial (reference PFC915-1020001-100182) is just not restricted and retails for CHF 28,000. Extra data at Parmigiani.com.