Welcome to the 2022 version of Quill & Pad’s early Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève predictions wherein the workforce picks favorites and explains why.The panelists are:
Elizabeth Doerr (ED), co-founder and editor-in-chief
Ian Skellern (IS), co-founder and technical director
Joshua Munchow (JM), resident nerd author
GaryG (GG), resident collector
Martin Inexperienced (MG), resident gentleman
Timepieces entered into the Chronograph class are mechanical watches comprising at the least one chronograph indication. Extra indications and/or problems are admissible.
2022 GPHG Chronograph class shortlist
JM: Hmm, that is usually a comparatively easy class because of the inclusion of 1 wildly difficult or modern chronograph amongst 5 different high-quality but considerably regular chronographs. This 12 months we’ve got two which are mechanically modern, two extra which are reasonably related and visually engaging, and at last two extra which have broad wrist attraction, considered one of which is comparatively attainable.I’ve a hunch which watch will win, however it’s fairly doable that the jury may very well be extra break up this 12 months than regular. Or maybe we and the jury will probably be unanimous!
ED: Oh, I feel you’re proper, Joshua. I consider the jury – and we – will probably be pretty break up on who’s the winner right here. Three of the six nominated watches show their mechanics within the dial on full, whereas a fourth reveals an vital element solely, leaving the remainder of the dial lined. One is wildly busy from design and performance whereas the final one may be very calm and refined in its design. All have very totally different mechanics powering their time measurement capabilities, however solely two of those do it in a approach that hasn’t been accomplished earlier than. I predict the struggle will come down to those two items.
GG: Battle of the titans! I wouldn’t be stunned to see each the Aiguille d’Or and Innovation Prize winners come from this class, so it’s doable that the quantity three watch on this group of six will probably be known as the Chronograph winner for 2022.
ED: That can also be solely doable, Gary!
MG: I the chronograph nonetheless all people’s favourite complication? The manufacturers most actually assume in order an unlimited quantity are launched every year. The six which are nominated on this class symbolize the cream of the crop.
IS: Now the judging will get severe. I believed that each one six finalists within the Mechanical Exception class had a great likelihood of profitable; nevertheless right here, whereas we’ve got 4 sturdy contenders for greatest chronograph 2022, I feel it’s going to come down to 2: conventional versus avant-garde.
Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Restricted Version
JM: The Navitimer is by far essentially the most accessible and broadly interesting chronograph on this bunch, largely as a result of it has a protracted historical past with collectors and is essentially the most inexpensive, with all the opposite fashions starting from three to 18 occasions as costly.
Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Restricted Version
Affordability ought to undoubtedly be taken into consideration for the perfect chronograph watch for my part correctly a watch that presents a transparent worth. However that’s the place the actual advantages for the Navitimer finish in opposition to the group of nominees. Towards the others on this class, the Navitimer Cosmonaute does really feel just a little like a highschool athlete enjoying in opposition to professionals; it simply isn’t truthful. That isn’t to say that Breitling couldn’t compete if it wished to, however I really feel prefer it simply isn’t on the identical degree of chronograph because the others on this competitors; it’s simply too pedestrian.And that isn’t one thing I’d have ever thought-about the Navitimer, but it surely feels proper this 12 months and makes me assume that Breitling in all probability received’t take the crown.
MG: Shouldn’t this watch be within the Iconic class? As enthusiastically as I’d have obtained it there, so reserved am I about it right here. Whereas a watch with very fascinating pedigree, it’s extra previous wine in a brand new bottle than anything. Sure, that may style incredible however isn’t sufficient in my e book to win the Chronograph class.
Historic 1962 Breitling Cosmonaute (left) and 2022 Navitimer Cosmonaute Restricted Version
ED: That is by far the busiest watch within the half-dozen, which is saying so much once you take a look at that MB&F. Nevertheless, it is just half as fascinating as that watch, which can both be the eventual winner right here or runner up – and even take a discretionary prize residence. Nothing in opposition to the Navitimer, which is a completely iconic mannequin, but it surely’s simply not going to be the winner right here this 12 months.
GG: I had the pleasure of attending a collector occasion on the launch of Breitling’s Navitimer Cosmonaute Restricted Version, so I do have a comfortable spot for the watch in addition to its basis within the watch worn by Astronaut Scott Carpenter throughout his 1962 flight. The important thing Cosmonaute options together with 24-hour dial and bezel slide rule are all in place, and it’s a crisp-looking watch in individual, but it surely’s not outfitted to struggle it out with the MB&F and Grönefeld chronographs.
IS: Whereas I admire that pilot’s watches must show a number of info, as a basic chronograph I discover the dial of the Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Restricted Version to be far too busy. The Cosmonaute might effectively have been the primary Swiss wristwatch in house, however I don’t assume its backstory will probably be sufficient for it to win on this discipline.
Additional studying: You Are There: Breitling Launches The Restricted Editon Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute And Collectors Strut Their Stuff
Fast Info Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Restricted Version
Case: 41 x 13 mm chrome steel with fluted, bidirectional slide rule bezel in platinum; cambered sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coatings on each side; 3 atm water resistance
Motion: manually wound Breitling B02 chronograph; 70-hour energy reserve; 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency, formally licensed C.O.S.C. chronometer
Features: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds; 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph subdials; aviator slide rule; date
Limitation: 362 examples, obtainable by means of Breitling boutiques or on-line
Value: $10,800 / CHF 10,800
Czapek Rattrapante Ice Blue
ED: Czapek is simply killing it proper now, and with good purpose: it’s making nice watches which are visually and mechanically fascinating. This split-seconds chrono carrying its mechanics on its sleeve is not any totally different, both. What a stunning watch!
Czapek Rattrapante Ice Blue on the wrist
MG: I’ve been loving watching the event of Czapek, as this model solely appears to get higher. In actual fact, this watch is considered one of my favourite rattrapantes at the moment obtainable. It has a refreshing, sporty look to it, cleverly highlighting the mechanics of the complication, and the built-in bracelet is even unique in its design.
IS: Czapek has been going from power to power over the previous couple of years, and the brand new Rattrapante Ice Blue has given the model one more enhance. The truth that it’s a column wheel split-seconds chronograph will increase its probabilities right here, as does the truth that the shows are nonetheless all very legible regardless of the open dial revealing the motion. The Czapek Rattrapante is actually a fantastic chronograph, however I don’t assume it’s going to win right here.
GG: The Czapek Rattrapante Ice Blue is for me a slight visible enchancment on the silver-grey model of the identical watch launched in 2021, and it’s enjoyable – if visually confounding if you wish to learn the time – to see the column wheel assemblies on the dial aspect of the watch. Altering the colour of the chapter rings from the 2021 watch, nevertheless, isn’t sufficient for me to think about this a brand new reference.
Shut up on the Czapek Rattrapante Ice Blue (photograph courtesyAlex Teuscher)
JM: Czapek has been considered one of my favourite manufacturers ever because it launched due to its transparency, mechanical high quality, and design ethos. The route it has taken with the Antarctique Rattrapante is nothing in need of mouthwatering. Utilizing the Antarctique case has made it a incredible chronograph to put on day-after-day, and the seen mechanics on the dial aspect give the wearers of mechanical chronographs precisely what they need: a miniature spectacle that they’ll play with. Because of this 4 of the six nominated watches additionally show their mechanics as effectively.
Being a split-second chronograph (rattrapante) units it other than each watch save one, and that different one is the one I’m choosing for my winner. So since I’ve mentioned I don’t assume it’ll win, why is it additionally not my first runner up? Innovation, that’s why. That is an superior caliber and a fantastic on a regular basis chronograph, supremely wearable, and the third most inexpensive piece within the competitors. However no matter how cool it’s, it doesn’t current a lot horological innovation, whereas two different watches do, so that they take my high two spots and this one is available in third.
Fast Info Czapek Rattrapante Ice Blue
Case: 42.5 x 15.3 mm, chrome steel
Motion: guide winding Caliber SHX6, created in collaboration with Chronode, 60-hour energy reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; split-second chronograph
Limitation: 99 items
Value: CHF 53,900
Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum
MG: That is merely the perfect watch that the Dutch brothers have made up to now. The motion is a mechanical gem, but additionally the aesthetics of the watch are on level. For positive my winner on this class. I now solely need to search for a Spyker (automobile) to put on this incredible Grönograaf in.
Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf on the wrist
GG: The Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum is chasing scorching on the MB&F Legacy Machine’s heels. I’ve at all times been fascinated with centrifugal clutches and different types of movement regulators in watches, so seeing one prominently displayed on the Grönograaf’s dial is an enormous plus. Clearly, a large amount of thought has gone into this very creative watch, and if the jury is extra inclined to pick a conventional-looking piece this one may simply stroll away with the prize.
Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum
JM: That is my saddest first runner up of the competitors as a result of the Grönefeld brothers are a few of my favourite individuals within the trade, their watches are a few of my favorites in relation to motion aesthetics, and the historical past behind the household is simply so cool.That is the Grönefeld brothers’ first new complication shortly and it was effectively well worth the wait, sporting a shocking gradual return-to-zero mechanism that channels a minute repeater governing system. The aim of the chronograph, subsequently, isn’t to be the quickest resetting timer for speedy successive monitoring of occasions, however a poetic dance of time the place you time your occasion after which, when it’s over, gracefully reset the fingers to time one thing new.It’s each horologically fascinating and exquisite to behold. The motion, as ordinary, is completely beautiful and the dial is simple to learn, but visually distinct to the model. And if it wasn’t for the MB&F LM Sequential Evo, it could take this competitors fingers down. Alas, it simply doesn’t have sufficient insane mechanics to take the crown this 12 months, but it surely has simply stolen my coronary heart.
ED: As a lot as I like the creative MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo for its splendidly creative qualities, I discover the just about equally as creative Grönograaf rather more legible and rather more wearable in dimension. I’m completely torn between the 2 however will probably be going with this tantalum-encased magnificence as my winner partially as a result of I feel the jury will do the identical. And the jury might effectively hand MB&F a discretionary prize and even the Aiguille d’Or in my opinion.
IS: When Tim and Bart Grönefeld confirmed me their 1941 Grönograaf prototype at Watches and Wonders earlier this 12 months, I believed that it was a incredible watch however not fairly modern sufficient to win this class. Then, as I bought deeper into the Grönograaf, I felt that it could win (and the motion is just beautiful); nevertheless, once I delved deeper into one other finalist right here I modified my thoughts but once more. I like the Grönograaf and can be completely happy to see it win right here and I believe that it’s going to have severe assist within the GPHG jury, but it surely’s (by a whisker) my runner up.
Additional studying: Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf: My (Present) Predicted Winner For This 12 months’s ‘Greatest Chronograph’ At The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève
Fast Info Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum
Case: 40 x 11.3 mm, tantalum
Motion: manually wound Caliber G-04, lateral clutch column wheel chronograph, comfortable reset mechanism with centrifugal governor and ruby-jeweled reset hammers; 53-hour energy reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, variable inertia free-sprung steadiness, 408 parts together with 45 jewels, some set in gold chatons
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph with immediate leaping minute counter
Strap/bracelet: buffalo leather-based, 20 mm tapering to 18 mm, metal or tantalum pin buckle to match case
Limitation: 25 items
Value: €165,000 / CHF 180,500
Louis Moinet Time to Race
MG: I spent intensive time at Watches and Wonders 2022 analyzing and enjoying with Time to Race. After all, it’s a variation on the model’s Memoris, but it surely affords a distinct attraction that makes my racing coronary heart rev. The customizable numbers are enjoyable as are the color-coded designs referring to the time when it wasn’t manufacturers competing on the race monitor however international locations.
Louis Moinet Time to Race in racing inexperienced
Time to Race is refined and enjoyable on the identical time but additionally well-proportioned with tons of particulars and made with apparent craftsmanship. I wouldn’t thoughts beginning an in depth love affair with the model representing Nice Britain (inexperienced), in step with my automotive nation of alternative.
ED: That is the look ahead to racing geeks for positive! What a cool concept.
IS: Louis Moinet’s Time to Race is actually an attention grabbing chronograph, and whereas it might be a brand new mannequin for 2022 its motion isn’t as new and I feel that can depend in opposition to it right here.
JM: Louis Moinet has at all times been one of many boldest manufacturers making customized watches. Many of the fashions it releases are customizable indirectly; some fashions are even constructed across the concept. The Time To Race chronograph is one such piece that gives an individual the flexibility to primarily select a customized livery to go together with their racing quantity. After all, it may be any fortunate quantity the client needs (that hasn’t been chosen) and the model will be sure that every mixture of colours and numbers is a novel piece.
Glowing at evening: Louis Moinet Time to Race with fascinating lume
On high of that, the chronograph itself is visually arresting, following in the identical footsteps because the Czapek however focusing much more on the chronograph capabilities. The case and the big domed sapphire crystal that wraps across the motion protruding from the case is superior and has turn into a favourite function of latest releases from the model. However even with all of that, I don’t know if the customization and comparatively inexpensive value in comparison with the others provides it sufficient oomph to take the title. Different watches have elementary improvements of their items, so for that purpose I feel it’s going to possible fall in need of the winner’s circle for this watch.
GG: If I have been out there for the Louis Moinet Time to Race, I’d make the most of the chance to specify a novel coloration and huge numeral on the dial to ask for Rosso Corsa and Gilles Villeneuve’s immortal quantity 27. Sadly, the watch isn’t for me as there’s simply an excessive amount of happening to make it visually pleasing to me.
Additional studying: Louis Moinet Pays Homage To A Automotive Racing Custom With Time To Race Chronograph Assortment Of Distinctive Items
Fast Info Louis Moinet Time to Race
Case: 40.7x 17.92 mm, titanium
Motion: automated skeletonized Caliber LM96 with dial-side seen chronograph meeting, 48-hour energy reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph
Limitation: 99 items per coloration (pink, inexperienced, and blue), numeral decided by proprietor
Value: CHF 30,500
MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo
IS: I’m sorry, MB&F, I used to be tempted off the true path however have discovered my approach again. The GPHG isn’t (or shouldn’t be) nearly recognizing superlative conventional horology, but additionally encouraging manufacturers to push the boundaries and innovate in order that there’s nonetheless a GPHG in 100 years. LM Sequential isn’t simply an ultra-functional twin chronograph, its Twinverter button affords timing performance past something beforehand seen in chronographs. And for that purpose it’s my choose for Chronograph 2022. However there’s additionally a great likelihood that the LM Sequential will win the discretionary Innovation or Audacity prize, wherein case it’s the Grönograaf.
MB&F LM Sequential EVO
GG: I do know that opinions will differ between the highest two selections on this class, however I’m going to go together with the MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo. With its multi-functional design utilizing two chronograph trains in a number of methods, the topsy-turvy button that makes all the chrono capabilities instantly do the alternative of what they have been doing a second earlier than, and the sensible colourful and dimensional design I’m totally satisfied.
JM: Winner, winner, hen dinner, I can’t make a rational declare why this watch received’t win the title of greatest chronograph this 12 months. Model recognition and provenance apart, the LM Sequential Evo boasts so many new capabilities that we’ve got by no means seen earlier than in a chronograph that it’s a bit onerous to wrap your head round it with out a demonstration.
MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo (picture courtesy MB&F)
The power to have two chronographs operating independently or concurrently and the flexibility to manage them relative to one another to create new performance is fairly darn groundbreaking, and it’s all all the way down to the standard MB&F degree of aptitude and aesthetics.If I needed to make one massive grievance concerning the completed product it could be that it’s too costly for me to afford, and that stinks. Clearly, this isn’t drawback for the watch, only for my goals. Towards every little thing on this class, it stands out by leaps and bounds. The Grönefeld might have stolen my coronary heart, however the MB&F is poised to run away with the title this 12 months.
ED: I hate to wager in opposition to MB&F. Ever. So I’m simply gonna say that I feel this watch will take one of many different prizes for positive.
Additional studying: MB&F LM Sequential EVO Twin Chronograph: An Ingenious Software Of A Easy Concept (That No person Had Thought Of Earlier than)
Fast Info MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo
Case: 44 x 18.2 mm, zirconium
Motion: hand-wound caliber developed by Stephen McDonnell with Twinverter swap, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, 72-hour energy reserve, double mainspring, flying steadiness wheel, 585 parts
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; twin chronographs
Value: CHF 172,000
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Metal
JM: I’ve cherished each iteration of the brand new Tonda PF, and the Chronographe is not any exception. As an on a regular basis watch it hits all the appropriate marks for somebody who needs a classically reserved-looking metal sports activities watch with the added performance a chronograph affords. It could possibly fly beneath the radar or stand out relying on the way you put on it, and solely you’ll know that the bezel is an extra-special ring of platinum, elevating your watch to the extent of secret luxurious.I feel it would current the perfect case for wearability amongst every little thing within the class this 12 months, however that doesn’t assist it stand out as one thing earth shattering. The Tonda PF Chronographe, whereas incredible, isn’t meant to be modern, it’s meant to be a bestseller, which I’m positive it’s going to possible be. Because the final watch alphabetically within the group it undoubtedly isn’t the final in consideration, however I don’t see it profitable as the perfect chronograph, not within the firm of MB&F.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Metal
GG: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Metal is one other deserving finalist for Parmigiani this 12 months with its fast-beat 36,000 vph motion and use of delicate coloration and floor therapy variations to make studying the dial-side indications simpler. I’m not so positive about that date window, however I do admire that the background of the date wheel matches the dial coloration.
IS: In case you are after a clean-looking column wheel chronograph you’ll be able to put on with each a swimsuit and shorts, then the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Metal matches the invoice. The gorgeous barleycorn guilloche on the dial is an added bonus. However I do have one gripe: taking a look at how far the date show and the three subdials are from the sting of the dial, the motion is just too small for the watch; it seems to be to me as if the case ought to be 39-40 mmm reasonably than 42 mm.
ED: The Tonda PF is a gorgeous, luxurious, and really wearable line. And with 5 items from it operating in varied classes on the GPHG this 12 months I actually hope it takes residence at the least one award. It’s simply not going to be this class, that a lot I do know.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Metal
MG: Whereas an superior watch, the chronograph is my least favourite model of the Tonda PF. I’m not a fan of the date and the best way that it’s built-in into the design. Whereas Parmigiani toned down the chronograph capabilities fairly a bit, I really feel that that is additionally why this model is much less interesting to me. There’s extra muddle on the attractive dial, but not a transparent change of character.
Additional studying: All-New Parmigiani Tonda PF Assortment: Elegant Simplicity, Even When Sophisticated
Fast Info Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Metal
Case: 42 x 12.4 mm, chrome steel with a platinum bezel
Motion: automated Caliber PF070; 36,000 vph/5 Hz frequency; energy reserve 65 hours, pink gold full-size rotor, formally C.O.S.C. chronometer licensed
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; date, chronograph
Value: $31,000 / CHF 28,000
Predicted winners
Elizabeth: Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum
Martin: Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum
Ian: MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo
Joshua: MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo
Gary: MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo
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GaryG’s Early Profitable Picks For The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie De Genève (GPHG) 2022
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