Welcome to the 2022 version of Quill & Pad’s early Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève predictions by which the group picks favorites and explains why.
The panelists are:
Elizabeth Doerr (ED), co-founder and editor-in-chief
Ian Skellern (IS), co-founder and technical director
Joshua Munchow (JM), resident nerd author
GaryG (GG), resident collector
The Iconic class is for watches from an emblematic assortment that has exercised a long-lasting affect on watchmaking historical past and the watch marketplace for greater than 20 years.
JM: So we’re nonetheless doing this are we? Nicely, when in Rome, as they are saying! The Iconic class is actually designed to honor fashions with actual endurance, requiring them to have had a long-lasting affect as a group for greater than 20 years.
Now you may discover an issue if you’re a stickler for semantics: that description doesn’t point out whether or not the watch assortment or mannequin has to have been made for not less than 20 years or whether or not it might be a brand new model of a watch that was remodeled 20 years in the past. Usually that isn’t an issue however 30 % of the watches within the class this 12 months (two out of six fashions) fall below that second designation, which I discover to be outdoors the spirit of the principles, so that’s an computerized disqualification for me. Whether or not the jury will agree is a completely completely different story.
ED: This can be a terribly divisive class that tends to provide what looks as if the identical winners (and even contestants!) 12 months for 12 months. Nonetheless, we’ll choose what’s given.
GG: I’ll confess that it is a class that leaves me a bit chilly, not least as a result of having received it upon its re-introduction in 2019 with the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet has continued to enter this class, and someway the jury selected to choose one other Royal Oak to high the competitors in 2021. If we’re going to honor watches from “an emblematic assortment,” let’s attempt to not acknowledge the identical assortment time after time.
IS: Be aware to GPHG administration: watch manufacturers don’t should be inspired or rewarded for raiding their again catalogues, please drop the Iconic class. The foundations don’t even state that the prize is for greatest revival/reissue of an iconic watch, however any watch from an iconic assortment, so by what standards ought to we be judging on? It appears we simply choose whichever watch right here we like greatest (for any causes), and for me it comes down to 3 watches, one in all which is quartz!
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny Skeleton
JM: I’m judging this class a bit harshly as a result of I’m not precisely the most important fan of the way in which it really works, and if we’re to have it then I need to deal with what the intent is: to honor a mannequin that has made an outsized impression on the trade. The class has existed for 3 years and in these years the AP Royal Oak Jumbo has received twice, so it has been adequately honored as having a long-lasting impression.
I wish to introduce a brand new rule that when a mannequin wins it’s inducted into the GPHG Iconic corridor of fame, which might make it ineligible for getting into this particular class. So I say this watch is disqualified for causes of “Already Awarded As Iconic.” Let’s transfer on, please.
ED: Completely proper, Joshua. As Gary already identified, the Royal Oak has already received two of the three years by which this class has existed.
GG: Sure, the Royal Oak is an icon, nevertheless it has its trophies on this class in hand already.
IS: Not for the primary time this 12 months, I’m scratching my head questioning how a watch was chosen, and this time it’s the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The Royal Oak is little question an iconic watch, and I’ll even bestow iconic standing on the Royal Oak Jumbo.
If the Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny ever reached iconic standing I missed it. However that’s all by-the-by as a result of this Additional-Skinny Openworked is not going to win in 2022 as a result of a Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny received the GPHG Iconic prize in 2019. And I believe that the hive thoughts of the jury will keep in mind that.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny Skeleton
Case: 39 x 8.1 mm, chrome steel
Motion: computerized skeletonized Caliber 7124, simply 2.4 mm in top; 57-hour energy reserve; 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Features: hours, minutes
Value: 84,900 Swiss francs
Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43
GG: I actually like what Breitling has been doing with its updates of its basic items, and the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 isn’t any exception. Trendy and trustworthy to historical past on the identical time, it’s additionally interesting with its ice-blue dial. And, after all, it retains the bezel slide rule that makes a Navitimer a Navitimer.
ED: I actually like this new version of the Navitimer, particularly the weird and placing shade scheme. That is really an iconic watch by way of impression and what it has delivered to the desk for aviation lovers and professionals, and this new B01 is a worthy continuation.
IS: The Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 is one other of my practically tied high three right here that might simply win the prize. It’s positively iconic, and I just like the laid-back blue dial. At 43 mm it’s massive, as a pilot’s watch needs to be, however not overly so.
Going in opposition to this watch’s probabilities is the truth that Breitling received each the Petite Aiguille and Diver’s classes on the 2020 GPHG, and this Iconic class is admittedly extra of a whose-turn-is-it-next award.
JM: There are Breitling watches I really like, however I’ve by no means gotten into the Navitimer for the straightforward cause that it feels overly detailed and busy for any use I’d have. However I perceive that it’s usually thought-about the grail pilot’s watch for a lot of and has been a particularly fashionable mannequin for many years.
There isn’t any doubt that this watch is an icon for pilots and people aspiring to be, however I ponder if that can be a broad sufficient umbrella to take this class, particularly up in opposition to a distinct iconic pilot’s watch in the identical class. Because the Navitimer could be divisive primarily based on its seems to be, I’ve to place this one as my second runner up as I believe it received’t win the jury over sufficient.
Fast Information Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43
Case: 43 x 13.6 mm, chrome steel
Motion: computerized Caliber 01 with 70-hour energy reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency; official C.O.S.C. chronometer certification
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; date, chronograph
Value: CHF 8,500
Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0
ED: The unique quartz timepiece was identified solely as Reference 9931 in its personal time; it was produced solely from 1976 to 1978. Throughout that interval, Girard-Perregaux produced 8,200 examples. The “Casquette” moniker was a nickname given to it by collectors.
Whereas it’s a quirky and cute piece of watch historical past, I don’t consider it had a long-lasting impression on something besides MB&F and some different manufacturers, who produced a handful of limited-edition watches impressed by the form.
JM: Like I discussed with the AP Royal Oak, I stated I used to be going to be harsh for this class, and sadly it applies to this watch as nicely. The unique Casquette was solely produced for 2 years within the mid-seventies and there have been barely greater than 8,000 examples made. Has that watch gained a cult following for its rarity and uniqueness amongst collectors? Heck yeah! Does that make it an everlasting mannequin for greater than 20 years? Not in any approach in anyway.
It was remodeled 20 years in the past, positive, however that doesn’t imply it has 20 years of historical past as a mannequin, so below my studying of the principles it’s straight up disqualified. I nonetheless suppose it’s an superior watch and am blissful that Girard-Perregaux gave it a second probability at life, nevertheless it doesn’t match the invoice for this class.
GG: The Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 is an attention-grabbing case: as an improved re-edition of a single watch not produced since its preliminary run, does it qualify as coming from an emblematic assortment? Definitely the concept of a digital show had an affect we see in every single place immediately, so I’ll enable this one however for my cash it’s no Heuer Gulf.
IS: Quartz? I’m into mechanical watches, and the GPHG celebrates positive mechanical watchmaking so thanks, Girard-Perregaux, for making my life simpler by giving me a simple watch to rule out only for being quartz. And I choose flowing curves to angular strains, so why do I maintain wanting to have a look at it once more and feeling like I would like one?
Features? Take a deep breath: hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, 12 months, twin time, chronograph, and secret date. As a result of it’s quartz.
The GP Casquette is certainly iconic and this 2.0 model each honors the unique design (together with the classic purple LED show) and affords way more performance (the unique displayed solely hours, minutes, seconds, and date). Casquette 2.0 has barely extra angular strains than the unique, whereas a scratch-resistant titanium/ceramic case and bracelet replaces the unique’s metal case. The Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 is in my high three.
I’d love the Casquette 2.0 to win as a result of it’s so completely different to the whole lot else right here, and I like stretching boundaries. However the query is whether or not the GPHG jury thinks the identical approach. And there are additionally the a whole lot of GPHG Academy members (myself and colleagues right here included) that affect the vote (though we don’t know by how a lot), and the bigger the group the extra conservative it’s more likely to be. The Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 deserves to win, however I don’t suppose it should.
Fast Information Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0
Case: 42.4 x 33.6 x 14.64 mm, titanium and ceramic
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; date, day, month, 12 months, chronograph, second time zone
Limitation: 820 items
IWC Schaffhausen Massive Pilot’s Watch 43
GG: The IWC Schaffhausen Massive Pilot’s Watch 43 with vivid inexperienced dial is a superbly positive watch, however someway for me it’s extra “acquainted” than “iconic.” That stated, it matches the spirit of the class, and I wouldn’t object if the jury picked it out of this group.
JM: The IWC Massive Pilot’s Watch is what I’d take into account the really iconic pilot’s watch design, one thing that has been emulated by so many manufacturers that it’s usually the very first thing you consider when somebody says, “pilot’s watch.”
IWC has been integral in maintaining this design within the cultural milieu for many years and it’s normally the model many affiliate with the design. However the flieger design was not particular to IWC even from the beginning, so there’s a little asterisk subsequent to its identify in my ebook if you say it’s the definitive pilot’s watch. It’s for a lot of causes, however it’s a shared historical past with an entire host of different manufacturers as nicely. For that cause, I’ve it as my first runner up as I believe the jury will look very kindly on it, nevertheless it may nonetheless fall quick subsequent to my chosen winner.
ED: Jeez, that’s costly for a time-only metal watch. And I can’t see any cause why it needs to be so.
IS: The IWC Massive Pilot’s Watch 43 is just too huge a look ahead to my small wrists, however it’s an iconic mannequin and that’s no straightforward process for a standard spherical watch with no excellent options however (and it’s an enormous however) the whole lot simply works.
It’s a pilot’s watch so the dial needs to be massive, studying the time needs to be very legible, and an outsized crown makes it simpler to wind and set when piloting a aircraft with gloves (as so many people do) – and this green-dialed Massive Pilot’s Watch nails all of them. I can simply see it successful this 12 months and it should be coming as much as IWC’s flip to win this back-slapping prize this 12 months. The IWC Massive Pilot’s Watch 43 is in my high three.
Fast Information IWC Schaffhausen Massive Pilot’s Watch 43
Case: 43 x 13.6 mm, chrome steel
Motion: computerized Caliber 82100 with ceramic parts and Pellaton winding system, 60-hour energy reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, formally licensed C.O.S.C. chronometer
Features: hours, minutes, seconds
Value: 9,200 Swiss francs
Comment: quick-change strap system
TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf
JM: The TAG Heuer Monaco is without doubt one of the most iconic watches in all of motorsports for one cause alone: Steve McQueen. The impression that he had on fashionable tradition can’t be understated, and the general public consciousness of this watch and its ensuing iconic standing was identified to me earlier than I used to be even conscious of watches generally. That’s how broadly identified this watch was.
For that cause alone, I don’t suppose it may be argued it isn’t probably the most iconic on this class, and in contrast to the IWC Massive Pilot’s Watch, the design originated with Heuer alone. I’d guess that the jury will perceive how essential it was to each fashionable tradition and watchmaking historical past and award it accordingly. The jury might go one other approach, nevertheless it looks as if the Monaco needs to be the clear winner this 12 months.
GG: Maybe as a result of I’m sufficiently old to recollect the glory days of Gulf in racing, my choose on this class is the TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf. The Monaco clearly meets the criterion of getting had a long-lasting affect over the previous 20 or extra years, and with Gulf livery it evokes the flash and screaming sound of a Porsche tearing down the straight at Le Mans. An icon amongst icons, in my estimation.
ED: I do know this one needs to be my winner right here simply from a logical standpoint. And as a lot as I really like the Monaco altogether – and the Gulf editions particularly – this 12 months one other from this class has stolen my coronary heart. Nonetheless, I’m going to name this watch my winner as I believe it stands for therefore many issues a really iconic watch ought to: lasting impression, modern design, and cultural significance amongst them.
IS: The TAG Heuer Monaco is an iconic (even legendary) mannequin, and this Gulf version nails it. One other Monaco, the TAG Heuer Monaco Eighties, made the finals within the 2019 GPHG Iconic class, which was received by the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-thin (which can also be represented right here). With an oblong case measurement of 39 mm x 47.4 mm, it’s a big watch, and one which has placed on a number of kilos from the unique model, which was practically sq. at 38 mm x 40 mm.
It actually was an in depth name, however I believe that the Monaco x Gulf will win the 2022 GPHG Iconic prize.
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Fast Information TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf
Case: 39 x 47.4 x 15.1 mm, chrome steel
Motion: computerized Caliber Heuer 02, 80-hour energy reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; date, chronograph
Value: CHF 7,250
Zenith Defy Revival A3642
JM: Identical to with the Girard-Perregaux, this watch has not been a continuing or mainstay within the trade and the mannequin was solely produced for a short time. This particular model is from one mannequin 12 months.
However I believe probably the most particular a part of its identify that disqualifies it’s that it’s referred to as the Revival. Earlier than the Iconic class existed, the GPHG awarded the Revival prize for watches similar to this, and it wasn’t a class however somewhat a particular jury award as a result of it was a bit bit on the nostril to push manufacturers to simply remake watches they earlier made (but that was successfully the consequence). So for each of these causes I don’t suppose it actually matches with this class, even whether it is an superior watch and the unique has been a uncommon collector’s merchandise.
I’ve to disqualify it from this class, and I believe if this class continues sooner or later I should proceed this observe simply within the hopes that now we have a extra significant goal to the class except for “what long-lost mannequin can we remake to win an award.” I really like Zenith and the Defy assortment, however this simply doesn’t make sense for this class.
ED: The scale, the visuals, the beautiful particulars – this reboot of the Zenith Defy A3642 simply does it for me. It’s even moderately priced! Actually, it’s probably the most moderately priced watch on this class after the quartz GP Casquette. I really like this watch, however it’s sadly my runner up as a result of it wasn’t round for the final 20 years and had no probability to affect the market. That doesn’t change my love for its cool retro design and appreciation for its significance inside Zenith’s personal model historical past.
IS: The Zenith El Primero was (and is) an iconic watch; the Zenith Defy isn’t. The Defy Revival A3642 is a nice-looking watch. I’m not a fan of dials and instances too massive for the motion (30 mm motion in 43 mm case), on this case it’s in step with the unique design. However these four-line hour markers destroy the search for me. Move.
GG: The Zenith Defy Revival A3642 faithfully reproduces the primary Defy mannequin from 1969, however there are maybe some designs which are greatest left within the archives, and for me this piece with its dated look is one in all them.
Fast Information Zenith Defy Revival A3642
Case: 37 x 13.6 mm, chrome steel
Motion: computerized Caliber Elite 670, energy reserve 50 hours, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Limitation: 250 items
Value: 6,900 Swiss francs
Elizabeth: TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf
Ian: TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf
Joshua: TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf
Gary: TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf
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