Welcome to the 2022 version of Quill & Pad’s early Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève predictions during which the workforce picks favorites and explains why.
The panelists are:
Elizabeth Doerr (ED), co-founder and editor-in-chief
Ian Skellern (IS), co-founder and technical director
Joshua Munchow (JM), resident nerd author
GaryG (GG), resident collector
Martin Inexperienced (MG), resident gentleman
The Mechanical Exception class includes watches that includes a particular mechanism similar to an progressive or subtle show, an automaton, a hanging or another acoustic operate, a particular escapement, a belt-driven motion, or one other unique and/or distinctive horological idea.
GPHG 2022 Mechanical Exception class shortlist
JM: Now we’re onto the large unhealthy boys (sure, they’re all clearly supposed to be males’s watches) of the GPHG. Mechanical Exception is the place we actually put probably the most mechanically unimaginable watches face to face, and the secret is horological creativity. Aesthetics assist however you could be a wild, avant-garde watch and simply win this class as a result of there isn’t a restrict.
Tremendous skinny, tremendous exact, tremendous sonorous, or tremendous out-of-this-world – all may take the trophy, and that is typically the place we now have as many alternative doable winners as we do panelists discussing them!
ED: The second thinnest mechanical watch on this planet, two ultra-complicated tourbillons, an evolution of 1 the all-time groundbreaking wristwatches in existence, and solely the third wristwatch ever to reliably include resonance. These are the timepieces we now have to select from on this class this 12 months. Good luck and good evening.
GG: In my preview article on this 12 months’s GPHG entries I singled out the Chopard and Ferdinand Berthoud entries within the Mechanical Exception class for reward, however they aren’t the one glorious watches within the set.
MG: A number of classes give fairly good perception into the state of the watch business, and amongst them for positive this 12 months is Mechanical Exception. Choosing a winner is an uphill battle, although, as it’s quite arduous to match an ultra-thin time-only watch to a minute repeater with a tourbillon and an astronomical delight. This is without doubt one of the the reason why my GPHG mantra stays that each one nominated watches are winners.
IS: Wow! There have been GPHG classes this 12 months that left me underwhelmed due to their paucity of outstanding and unique watches, however any of the six finalists on this Mechanical Exception class may simply take this prize. I’ve had the lucky pleasure of dealing with all of those watches, however sadly that doesn’t make rating them any simpler as they’re all sensational.
Armin Strom Mirrored Power Resonance First Version
JM: Initially debuting in 2016, a model of the Mirrored Power Resonance innovation has entered three earlier Grand Prix competitions: 2017, 2019, and 2020. And it has but to be honored with an award. Given the horological and engineering accomplishment of this piece, I feel it’s lengthy overdue to be acknowledged and eventually take a win.
Armin Strom Mirrored Power Resonance First Version
This new version refreshes the design and returns to the roots of the idea, a intelligent method to the distinctive phenomenon of resonance. No different piece on this class even comes near the achievement of making a extremely correct resonance watch. Heck, there aren’t much more than a pair different watches which are out there for buy that do something with resonance. It appears to me that it needs to be a transparent winner and may even deserve a little bit of an additional thank-you-for-your-patience pat on the again. However I feel that the overall jury, made up of many individuals which are much less technically savvy, is likely to be extra impressed with a record-setting watch than one which requires a little bit of physics information to actually admire.
For that cause, I wish to choose this watch as my clear winner, however I feel the jury might go it over as soon as once more in favor of a crowd favourite from Bulgari. However the jury may additionally consider that Bulgari has had sufficient success and eventually award the Mirrored Power Resonance too, so for me it’s a tie!
ED: Fortunately there are some cracking indie watchmakers on the jury this 12 months like Felix Baumgartner and Denis Flageollet, and in the event that they converse up in a forceful sufficient approach throughout the jury’s debates they may assist sway the vote on this route (although being two of probably the most soft-spoken watchmakers within the enterprise, they may not come throughout with sufficient drive).
I agree with every little thing you’ve stated, Joshua, and nonetheless can not consider this watch has by no means gained an award. With its beautiful redesign, it’s past time.
Armin Strom Mirrored Power Resonance First Version on the wrist
MG: To me, resonance remains to be probably the most mind-blowing ideas throughout the watch business. Armin Strom not solely makes it occur, but additionally wraps it in a recent delight that might very properly be the proper one-watch watch assortment. This is without doubt one of the only a few watches during which I wouldn’t wish to change a single factor. Even the textual content on the dial is on level. Regardless of heavy competitors, it’s the winner of this class in my ebook.
GG: Armin Strom is slowly making its visible displays much less and fewer clunky, and for me the Mirrored Power Resonance First Version is one other step ahead with its softened case profile and efficient use of motion openworking. The bridge construction on the reverse is cool, too, however I may do with out the Greubel Forsey-style raised engraving of the model’s values. I additionally admire the pusher at 2 o’clock that instantaneously resets the 2 working seconds indicators.
IS: Armin Strom deserves a GPHG award for mastering and taming resonance within the wristwatch. A number of others have made glorious watches that includes the phenomenon of resonance, however not one of the different mechanisms supply such dependable (and authorized) resonance and a documented enhance in precision.
The Mirrored Power Resonance has been round a number of years and I feel that may rely with the jury.
Additional studying: Armin Strom First Version Mirrored Power Resonance: Reboot Or Rebirth?
Fast Details Armin Strom Mirrored Power Resonance First Version
Case: 43 x 11.55 mm, stainless-steel
Motion: handbook winding Caliber ARF21, 48-hour energy reserve, 25,200 vph/3.5 Hz frequency with twin balances related by a Resonance Clutch Spring
Capabilities: hours, minutes, twin synchronizable seconds
Limitation: 25 items
Value: CHF 58,000
Bovet 1822 Récital 20 Astérium
GG: Bovet 1822’s Récital 20 Astérium is unbelievable! Laborious to determine the place to start out because the double-faced tourbillon is nearly forgotten given the encircling displays of evening sky and moon phases, equation of time and day/evening, the measurement of time ruled by a 365.25-day annual engine, and on the reverse the indications of the solstice, equinox, and astrological zodiac. The calendar is ready by way of the crown, and in case you allow the watch within the secure for every week, it should nonetheless be working as a result of its 10-day energy reserve. This one is a really shut second place for me on this 12 months’s Mechanical Exception group.
Bovet 1822 Récital 20 Astérium
MG: Made in a Swiss fort, these watches at all times appear to me like they arrive from a fairy world. In watchmaking there may be merely no equal to Bovet. Positive, different manufacturers deliver dazzling problems with refined finishings as properly, however the best way that Bovet presents them, unites them of their expressive designs, is one thing no different model can do. If I have been very rich I might like to have a field of them, and I do know that I’m not the one one. That is why I’m stunned that Bovet solely makes one piece of this distinctive Récital 20 Astérium as I feel that the mix of the pink and white gold works nice collectively. It would increase the Bovet universe even slightly bit in the event that they have been to do that extra typically.
IS: Whereas utterly totally different to the Armin Strom Mirrored Power Resonance in almost each approach possible, and regardless of being probably the most sophisticated watch right here (when it comes to the variety of problems), this Bovet 1822 Récital 20 Astérium is prone to undergo from being a brand new variation of an present mannequin.
Bovet 1822 Récital 20 Astérium reverse aspect
JM: As I’ve stated earlier than, Bovet is without doubt one of the most original manufacturers on the market as a result of it marches to the beat of its personal drummer and makes watches just like the Récital 20 Astérium. This factor is jam filled with problems – 10 to be actual – in addition to together with a tourbillon and retrograde minutes indication.
The aesthetics are distinctive on this class, in addition to being one of many solely watches with vibrant colours. Gray and gold dominate the class, however the Astérium showcases a wide range of gorgeous blues in addition to being the one piece to have inventive crafts utilized. As probably the most sophisticated watch within the competitors, it has a powerful probability to win towards all of those attention-grabbing watches. However, and this can be a very technical “however,” the problems it presents are progressive of their show and implementation, not precisely the creation as we now have seen these problems in different extremely sophisticated watches. So in favor of my two high picks, I’ve to name this one my second runner-up towards two really groundbreaking and progressive watches.
ED: This can be a very severe watch with a wide range of astronomical indications that additionally features a mesmerizing double-face flying tourbillon mounted within the heart of its meeting. The rigorously deliberate motion and its fantastically executed structure enable the observer to see the mechanism shifting with no bridge interfering in order that its mechanical magnificence is on full view from each single angle. And that’s just the start of what’s so particular about this ultra-complicated masterpiece.
I don’t assume it should take the crown right here as a result of it was launched 5 years in the past in 2017 and this can be a unique-piece variation. However then once more it has by no means been entered into the GPHG, so the jury may even see that going for it. I want this watch many, many awards as a result of it’s really astounding, however I do consider one other will stroll away with the title in 2022.
Additional studying: Bovet Récital 20 Astérium: The Galaxy On Your Wrist
Fast Details Bovet 1822 Récital 20 Astérium
Case: 46 x 18.3 mm, white and pink gold
Motion: handbook winding skeletonized Caliber 17DM02-SKY with 240-hour energy reserve, 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz frequency
Capabilities: hours (24-hour show), retrograde minutes, seconds; moon section, energy reserve indicator, equation of time, evening sky, annual sidereal calendar, seasons, solstice and equinox indicator, astrological zodiacs indicator
Limitation: one piece
Value: CHF 500,805
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely 10th Anniversary
MG: Is there any glory for second place? Bulgari was in all probability not comfortable that it may benefit from the Octo Finissimo Extremely being the thinnest mechanical watch on this planet for such a brief time period. Whereas the Richard Mille is likely to be barely a hair thinner, the Bulgari nonetheless has the sting as it will possibly declare the title of being the thinnest regulator watch on this planet. Kidding apart, it’s good wanting, comes on a bracelet, and in a technical sense is the crown of a decade of mechanical innovation.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely tenth Anniversary
JM: The Octo Finissimo Extremely was really groundbreaking when it blew previous the earlier world report holder for thinnest watch whereas wanting prefer it had actual depth because of some expertly designed bridgework.
It additionally was solely the report holder for a short while because of a shocking contender who solely weeks later took the crown with a watch 0.05 millimeters thinner, however that watch will not be on this competitors. So throughout the 2022 GPHG, that is the report holder for thinnest watch, and meaning rather a lot. It represents excessive experience in thinness in addition to a dedication to pushing the boundaries of what skinny might be.
For that cause alone it deserves to win the crown, however I’ve it tied for the win with the Armin Strom Mirrored Power Resonance for one principal cause: previous efficiency. The Octo Finissimo has a historical past of being a jury favourite for earlier world information and general model, so it’s doable that the jury may go one other option to hold from simply being a default winner. I do know that hasn’t stopped previous juries from selecting the Tudor Black Bay extra occasions than affordable, however I can’t make sure so I’m holding my breath and saying it might be a coin toss between Armin Strom and Bulgari this 12 months.
ED: I really feel unhealthy for Bulgari having been one-upped by Richard Mille just some weeks after its triumphant return to having the thinnest watch. However I nonetheless really feel that Armin Strom deserves the award and that what the jury may do is award the Bulgari within the innovation class that’s discretionary because it additionally deserves recognition.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely tenth Anniversary
IS: My finest guess is that Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely tenth Anniversary will win the GPHG Mechanical Exception class (or a much bigger prize). The jury (at the very least the final one) clearly appreciates ultra-thin watches because the Bulgari Octo Finissimo took the GPHG’s Aiguille d’Or (general finest in competitors) in 2021. That was for a watch 5.8 mm thick, and the Octo Finissimo Extremely tenth Anniversary is lower than a 3rd of that at 1.8 mm thick – together with case! I feel this watch will win, however it could additionally win the Aiguille d’Or, during which case my second alternative by a hair will win.
GG: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely 10th Anniversary is the most recent skinny watch from Bulgari. For me, it’s been some time because the Octo sequence has handed the purpose of being too skinny for its diameter, and the addition of the QR code on the dial aspect of the watch is an actual turnoff. This one is a “no” from my perspective.
Additional studying: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely: Seemingly Each Impossibly Skinny And Impossibly Deep
Fast Details Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely 10th Anniversary
Case: 40 x 1.8 mm, titanium
Motion: manually wound Caliber BVL180 (co-developed with Concepto), 50-hour energy reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency, constructed as a monobloc built-in into the case
Capabilities: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: 10 items
Value: €400,000
Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon
GG: My winner is the Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon. I just lately heard this watch in particular person, and to my ear it’s each bit the equal of the unique Full Strike and now with of a tourbillon to attract the attention and make the watch simply that bit extra advanced. It’s not a small watch, however it’s a good looking one, and with C.O.S.C. certification, it should hold good time as properly.
Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon
MG: An imposing watch in a comparatively compact package deal; the L.U.C Full Strike combines two of probably the most prestigious incorporates a watch can have in very organized and opulent package deal. That is the watch folks purchase once they imply enterprise, however wish to present it in a extra subtle approach. One among my favourite minute repeaters at the moment out there.
ED: The unique Chopard L.U.C Full Strike minute repeater gained the Aiguille d’Or on the 2017 GPHG. This isn’t a mere modification of the L.U.C Full Strike: the choice to incorporate a tourbillon regulator required an entire improvement course of that concerned rethinking interactions and layouts. With such a fragile escapement topic to as many parameters because the minute repeater, the Chopard Manufacture workshops had to make sure that this tourbillon wouldn’t in any approach modify the acoustic qualities of the chime.
Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon
IS: The Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon is one other watch that might simply win in one other 12 months. The sound from Chopard’s sapphire crystal gongs, that are built-in into the sapphire crystal, is loud and crystalline clear, and the addition of a tourbillon makes this basically a brand new motion. Nevertheless, the L.U.C Full Strike took the GPHG Aiguille d’Or in 2017 and I don’t assume that the added tourbillon is sufficient for the Full Strike Tourbillon to win right here.
JM: It’s arduous to think about judging a contest of spectacularly sophisticated mechanical watches and saying {that a} minute repeater with sapphire crystal gongs and a tourbillon supported by sapphire crystal bridges ought to get solely a minor “good job.” However that’s precisely what I’m saying, and it’s a bit arduous to swallow.
The L.U.C assortment has at all times been immaculate, and the Full Strike was a unbelievable timepiece. The addition of the sapphire crystal-mounted tourbillon is completely beautiful, but I’m unsure if it is sufficient to take the competitors down. That is the unknown of the Mechanical Exception class, typically “completely unbelievable” simply drops you in the midst of the pack as a result of every little thing is already unbelievable. I don’t have a single unhealthy factor to say about this watch, I simply assume different items have proven extra innovation and mechanical exception.
Additional studying: Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Minute Repeater With Crystal Energy! Plus Video: Hear For Your self
Fast Details Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon
Case: 42.5 x 12.58 mm, moral pink gold
Motion: handbook winding Caliber L.U.C 08.02-L with one-minute tourbillon with sapphire crystal bridge, 50-hour energy reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency, base plate and bridges in German silver, sapphire crystal gongs; variable-inertia stability; official C.O.S.C. chronometer certification; Geneva Seal
Capabilities: hours, minutes, hacking seconds (on tourbillon); minute repeater, energy reserve, minute repeater energy reserve
Limitation: 20 items
Value: CHF 380,000
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1
IS: The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1 is the watch I’d wish to win, and with this watchmaker-heavy GPHG jury I feel it has a great opportunity. Whereas an influence reserve indicator and tourbillon don’t sound like a lot in the best way of complication, the 2RSM.2-1 additionally incorporates a fusée-and-chain fixed drive mechanism, deadbeat seconds, stability cease for exact time setting, and, unusually for a motion with deadbeat seconds, it’s chronometer licensed. The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1 is my runner up however might properly win if the Bulgari is awarded one other prize.
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1 in pink gold
MG: Whereas I discover the case on the FB 1 a bit extra distinctive and expressive, I perceive Ferdinand Berthoud getting extra into rounder designs. Whereas I nonetheless assume that the model ought to begin naming its fashions (FB 2RMS.2-1 sounds extra just like the designation for a glucose atom than a good looking watch), I additionally would like to see this mannequin with much less textual content on the dial as then it will get nearer to the identical degree as my favourite Ferdinand Berthoud of all time, the FB 1R.6-1. Whereas an imposing watch, I really feel that on this firm it will possibly sustain, however not forward.
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1 Caliber FB-T-FC. RSM
JM: This is likely to be probably the most basic watch on this group because it took inspiration instantly from a clock made in 1768. The motion is ridiculously sophisticated and exquisitely crafted, pushing conventional horology to its limits. However what it has in basic mechanics, it lacks in innovation, and that feels vital for this class. It’s distinctive, however in a quite conventional approach that showcases ability and manufacturing prowess however not precisely horological ingenuity.
I am keen on this watch and would love if it turned part of my assortment however judging pretty I don’t know if this watch has what it takes to win this class. It may win over the jury, however I can’t give it the win.
GG: The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1 retains the marine chronometer-inspired structure of its predecessors, however provides a central leaping seconds show whereas retaining C.O.S.C. chronometer certification, which is not any imply feat. I had an opportunity to carry and {photograph} this watch earlier this 12 months, and the construct high quality can also be really very good.
ED: It’s a wholly spectacular watch in each approach, Gary.
Fast Details Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1
Case: 44 x 14.3 mm, moral pink gold
Motion: manually wound Caliber FB RSM with one-minute tourbillon and fusée-and-chain transmission; 53-hour energy reserve, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency; formally licensed C.O.S.C. chronometer
Capabilities: hours, minutes, deadbeat hacking seconds; energy reserve
Limitation: 20 items
Value: CHF 270,000
Ulysse Nardin Freak S
ED: The Freak skilled an excellent return to its extremely progressive roots in 2022, and this new model is classy. The Freak is without doubt one of the all-time groundbreaking watches. However I really assume that Armin Strom needs to be this 12 months’s winner.
Ulysse Nardin Freak S on the wrist
JM: This is likely to be the toughest name to make as a result of the Freak has at all times been about mechanical and materials innovation because the starting; it’s actually a take a look at mattress for Ulysse Nardin analysis and improvement. However the Freak S, as unimaginable as it’s, doesn’t really feel prefer it pushed issues so far as it usually does, particularly in comparison with the Innovision ideas.
However therein lies the rub: the Innovision is the place the model releases all the improvements after which some finally make their approach into fashions, together with later Freak items. However every new Freak isn’t itself probably the most groundbreaking or progressive watch, and in addition to the dual oscillators, every little thing within the Freak S has been seen roughly in one other mannequin from Ulysse Nardin. The aesthetics and actual implementation is new and superior, however the identical might be stated for the Bovet and Chopard. This was probably the most enjoyable, sci-fi leaning Freak fashions that I can bear in mind, and fairly probably is my favourite from the gathering’s historical past. However does it beat every little thing else we’ve seen within the group? I’m not satisfied that it has.
Ulysse Nardin Freak S
GG: The Ulysse Nardin Freak S begins with the unique Freak idea after which raises the ante a number of ranges with angled twin stability wheels linked by a differential, materials enhancements within the escapement, and a “Grinder” winding system that’s twice as environment friendly as a standard automated winding setup. I’m glad I watched the video that accompanies the entry because the watch is much more spectacular in movement than at a standstill. The spaceship towards a black aventurine sky motif isn’t unhealthy, both.
IS: If any watch exemplifies the spirit of the Mechanical Exception class, it’s the in-every-way-exceptional Ulysse Nardin Freak S. Whereas the extra sophisticated Ulysse Nardin Freak was launched greater than 20 years in the past, the Freak S sports activities a totally new motion and retains comparable styling to its inspiration. However sadly on this robust lineup, The Freak S is one more look ahead to me that might have gained in different years, however I don’t assume will win tin 2022.
MG: A spaceship for on the wrist, the results of many years of innovation with the Freak fashions. Ulysse Nardin most definitely kicked it into excessive gear these days, and among the many new fashions this Freak S. The escapement is gorgeous, not solely in technical execution, but additionally when it comes to design. Is it kind follows operate or the opposite approach round? My very robust, virtually tied, runner up on this class!
Additional studying: Ulysse Nardin Freak S: Taking Freaky Again Towards Its Roots
Fast Details Ulysse Nardin Freak S
Case: 45 x 13.7 mm, black ceramic and DLC-coated titanium with pink gold bezel
Motion: automated Caliber UN-251 with twin inclined balances in a 60-minute tourbillon carousel, 72-hour energy reserve, 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz frequency, Grinder automated winding, silicon stability wheel
Capabilities: hours, minutes
Limitation: 75 items, 40 items for 2022 in present variation
Value: CHF 130,000 / €123,000
Predicted winners
Elizabeth: Armin Strom Mirrored Power Resonance First Version
Martin: Armin Strom Mirrored Power Resonance First Version
Ian: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely 10th Anniversary
Joshua: tie between Armin Strom Mirrored Power Resonance First Version and Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely 10th Anniversary
Gary: Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon
You may additionally get pleasure from:
GaryG’s Early Successful Picks For The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie De Genève (GPHG) 2022
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