Welcome to the 2022 version of Quill & Pad’s early Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève predictions wherein the staff picks favorites and explains why.
The panelists are:
Elizabeth Doerr (ED), co-founder and editor-in-chief
Ian Skellern (IS), co-founder and technical director
Joshua Munchow (JM), resident nerd author
GaryG (GG), resident collector
Martin Inexperienced (MG), resident gentleman
Based on the GPHG, the Women class comprises watches geared toward girls that comprise the next indications solely: hours, minutes, seconds, easy date (day of the month), energy reserve, basic moon section. These might doubtlessly be adorned with a most of 9 carats price of gems.
IS: Wow! That’s six very completely different watches preselected within the Women’ class. This ought to be attention-grabbing. And a tip of the hat to the GPHG staff for listening and including a devoted mechanical clock class this yr.
GG: Right here we go once more! I’m wanting ahead to being again in Geneva for this yr’s GPHG ceremony and happy as soon as once more to be debating this yr’s entries with my Quill & Pad colleagues.
As standard, we’re beginning with the Women’ class, and I’m unhappy to say that I’m not overwhelmed by the alternatives this yr, regardless that I’m a fan of the makers represented.
JM: As soon as once more, we’re again to our favourite pastime: predicting the winners of the subsequent version of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève! It looks like solely a pair months in the past we have been debating the deserves of a menagerie of unbelievable items and right here we’re proper again at it.
The 2022 version seems to be to be one other nice displaying, and I’m excited to see how all of us fare selecting our hopefuls. For the primary class, we check out women’ watches and have a tricky job forward of us. Since it’s such a broad class it lacks a transparent focus as to what ought to represent the very best women’ timepiece.
As I often do for this class, I put broad approachability, wearability, and clear female intent entrance and heart after I decide my winners, which additionally causes me to make onerous decisions in opposition to items I really get pleasure from.
MG: Apparently, time flies while you’re having enjoyable as it’s already time for an additional version of the GPHG spherical tables. Not that I thoughts as they’re at all times a lot enjoyable to do!
Fairly an eclectic bunch to select from this yr, which makes it all of the extra attention-grabbing!
Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon Eclipse I
MG: I completely love this watch as Arnold & Son took the inventive strategy by using all kinds of gem stones in an asymmetrical design. In consequence, you get an on the spot eyecatcher able to holding your consideration. Not a element skipped scrutiny, and I additionally love the lace impact within the aventurine dial. Backside line: we’d like extra watches like this.
JM: I’ve liked each model of the Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon the model has launched as a result of it’s a big moon section watch with visually fascinating moon. How may I not adore it?
This model is for many who wish to garner numerous consideration, from the lace-cut aventurine dial set with diamonds, sapphires, and mom of pearl to the moon fashioned from ruthenium crystals. The hour markers are triple-set diamonds, and the bezel, crown, and lugs are set with 90 brilliant-cut diamonds as nicely. The assortment of gem stones is fairly gorgeous and mixed with a moon section motion sporting 90 hours of energy reserve, that is one superior watch.
ED: Arnold & Son is killing it proper now! I am keen on the ruthenium crystals seen right here on the moon, which is popping into an Arnold & Son specialty, in addition to the attention-grabbing and ornamental use of gem stones and aventurine. And it’s not as showy on the wrist as one would possibly assume; it’s way more subdued than it’d appear to be from the press footage. It is extremely onerous to judge watches with gem stones with out seeing them within the steel. And this one seems to be good in actual.
Additionally, whereas 38 mm sounds largish to some folks, it’s the measurement of watch that I want over all others. For me this watch suits completely and is greater than comfy.
It ticks numerous my containers – particularly with its cool motion! – and it’s uncommon, attention-grabbing, and intensely top quality. It’s my clear winner on this class.
JM: The one cause it doesn’t win the class for me is the overemphasis on gem stones; primarily it’s numerous dazzle. Within the jewellery class this may be a profitable technique, however for a women’ watch, too many jewels is usually a dangerous factor because it makes it a lot more durable to put on daily and will draw an excessive amount of consideration. I feel the watch may very simply win over the jury, however I feel it lacks the broad enchantment that the winner of this class must be topped the very best women’ watch.
IS: The Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon Eclipse I ticks all of the containers for a superb women’ watch: 38 mm case, moon section, (laced) aventurine dial, and plenty of glitter. Plus, there’s the brand new in-house caliber and new case design. All of it seems to be good to my eyes, however I’m not seeing something making it come out from its competitors right here.
GG: For me, the Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon Eclipse I is only a mess from a visible standpoint and at 38 mm a comparatively massive mess at that.
Fast Info Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon Eclipse I
Case: 38 x 10.44 mm, white gold set with 90 brilliant-cut diamonds
Dial: aventurine with white and blue mother-of-pearl fragments, 35 brilliant-cut diamonds, three pear-cut diamonds, 4 brilliant-cut pink sapphires, and eight pear-cut blue sapphires
Motion: handbook winding Caliber A&S 1612, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, 90-hour energy reserve
Capabilities: hours, minutes; moon phases
Limitation: 18 items
Value: CHF 77,900
Chaumet Montre à Secret Déferlante
IS: The Chaumet Déferlante Secret watch seems to be extra like a putting jewellery piece than a “easy” women’ watch, particularly because it options fil-couteau (“knife-edge”) diamond setting wherein the gems seem to levitate. It’s a sensible watch to put on with the quilt closed and makes fairly an announcement while you open the quilt to learn the time. However I really feel that’s it’s an excessive amount of of a special day timepiece than a every day wearer, and a winner right here ought to be (for my part) appropriate for every day carrying.
JM: I’ve at all times thought the concept of a secret watch is one thing that ought to be explored extra, each in girls’s watches and males’s, however sadly they’re often reserved for jewelry-style watches. The Chaumet Déferlante Secret Timepiece straddles the road between jewellery and wristwatch as it’s clearly a wristwatch that successfully has a swiveling cowl constituted of extravagant diamonds.
It clearly works as a secret watch, however solely as a lot as an individual strolling round with pretend glasses and mustache. For that cause, it undoubtedly belongs on this class over the jewellery class as a result of it’s firstly a watch, simply with pizazz. That is why I actually get pleasure from this piece and assume the jury will most likely get pleasure from it as nicely. However I feel it falls quick within the class for a similar cause others do: it simply isn’t as sensible as my winner and it’s restricted within the capacity to be worn casually, one thing I feel the very best women’ watch wants.
GG: My high decide is the Chaumet Déferlante Secret: the swinging array of capturing stars that opens to disclose the time and engraved dial is cleverly accomplished, it options an computerized mechanical motion, and at 30 mm in diameter it’s nicely sized for smaller wrists.
ED: Or maybe too small for some smaller wrists, Gary . . . I can not see the time on watches of this measurement!
I additionally agree with what’s been mentioned right here: it’s an excessive amount of of a special day watch to slot in this class nicely, although I do give it plus factors for the (undisclosed) computerized motion that Chaumet enigmatically calls Caliber Fleurier FLW2580. As Chaumet is situated in Paris, I take this to imply that the motion is made in Fleurier – by Chopard? By Vaucher? It might be an attention-grabbing query to know the reply to.
MG: This Chaumet has probably the most gorgeous dials I’ve seen in a while. That additionally makes it considerably irritating that the model put a diamond cowl over it. Good dials are far rarer than an abundance of diamonds, irrespective of how nicely set. Did you additionally discover the quiet pattern that watches like this are actually an increasing number of usually outfitted with mechanical actions?
Fast Info Chaumet Montre à Secret Déferlante
Case: 30 x 13.77 mm, white gold set with 153 brilliant-cut diamonds (3.43 ct), cowl set with 57 brilliant-cut, square-cut, princess-cut, and baguette-cut diamonds (1.24 ct)
Motion: computerized Caliber Fleurier FLW2580, 40-hour energy reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Capabilities: hours, minutes
Limitation: 3 items
Value: CHF 131,860
Chopard Alpine Eagle 33
MG: The Alpine Eagle a tempting provide as a women’ watch as a lot as a males’s watch. The one factor that I’ve in opposition to it’s that the diamond setting could be very unimaginative and “protected.” From a business viewpoint a model wants watches like this, however I’m lacking the wow-factor that so many different Chopard fashions possess.
IS: With the Alpine Eagle 33, Chopard has hit a homerun. It’s a girls’s equal to the Royal Oak, however higher in practically each means. Straightforward-wearing 33 mm case, sustainability oozing out of each pore, new in-house computerized motion, and sufficient diamonds across the bezel and marking the hours to draw the attention however not dominate the aesthetics. It was a detailed name, however the Alpine Eagle 33 is my decide for greatest women watch of 2022.
JM: It is a watch that has numerous enchantment within the trendy age of luxurious sport watches, and Chopard is a high title for most ladies excited about watches and jewels. The Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 is a really wearable watch that does take a barely extra restrained strategy to gem setting, although it nonetheless could be very heavy on the stones. The spiral-brushed dial and bracelet are good for what may have been a “masculine” watch that was simply given a gemstone makeover, to not point out it sports activities a C.O.S.C.-certified chronometer motion.
However the very best options are the social and environmental impacts. The gold is each ethically sourced and produced and recycled within the in-house foundry to make scraps go so far as attainable. The diamonds are additionally as accountable as they are often for pure diamonds following the Kimberley Course of Certification Scheme and the Accountable Jewelry Council system of warranties. However as I’ve identified with different items on this class, I really feel it’s too flashy to be the very best all-around women’ watch, although I wouldn’t be stunned as my first runner-up if it wins the jury over.
ED: As this watch is formally below embargo till October 1 – yeah, that doesn’t make sense to me, both – I’ve not had the pleasure of dealing with it. Nonetheless, I’ve dealt with numerous different Alpine Eagle fashions, and they’re all glorious high quality and lovely in design and execution. I’m additionally a giant fan of Chopard’s ethically sourced metals. Wonderful watch, simply not fairly as imaginative because the entry by Arnold & Son this yr for me.
GG: I’m a giant fan of Chopard’s work over the previous years and I do just like the Alpine Eagle line, however the Alpine Eagle 33 with its diamond bezel loses a few of the important qualities of the Eagle look and turns into simply one other good women’ sports activities watch.
Additional studying: Chopard Alpine Eagle: A Cool – And Moral – Sports activities Informal Watch
Fast Info Chopard Alpine Eagle 33
Case: 33 x 7.85 mm, ethically sourced pink gold
Motion: computerized Chopard Caliber 09.01-C with 42-hour energy reserve, 25,200 vph/3.5 Hz frequency, official C.O.S.C. chronometer certification
Capabilities: hours, minutes, hacking seconds
Value: CHF 45,500
Konstantin Chaykin Harley Quinn
GG: May I’ve picked the Konstantin Chaykin Harley Quinn as my winner? Actually! I purchased the Joker watch that began Chaykin’s sequence of Wristmon watches, and this piece does a very good job of offering a whimsical interpretation of the Harley Quinn character. I’d be greater than happy to applaud Chaykin if he finally ends up making the journey to the stage to simply accept a second GPHG trophy, however I’d be happier if his nominated watch got here from his wealthy catalogue of upper horology items.
ED: I undoubtedly assume this watch is just too quirky to win this class: it gained’t enchantment sufficient to all of the jury members, irrespective of how a lot I personally love the Joker’s fearless girlfriend as a comic book character and Chaykin’s reinterpretation of her!
Having dealt with it, I can attest to its nice match regardless of its 40 mm measurement. And it simply makes me smile!
MG: Inventive and imaginative, I’m at all times stunned how Konstantin Chaykin is ready to seize the soul of a personality in a number of intelligent, well-executed particulars. With the Harley Quinn, he has accomplished it once more. I’m questioning when the idea of this watch goes to develop stale, however for now that doesn’t appear to be one thing to fret about.
JM: Konstantin Chaykin is considered one of my favourite unbiased watchmakers immediately and I’ve been a giant fan of the Joker sequence ever since its launch. The watches are at all times enjoyable and nicely obtained, bringing nice success to Chaykin as nicely.
This Harley Quinn version is as soon as once more a really enjoyable and satisfying piece, but it surely doesn’t really feel as if it was made completely for ladies per se, and at 40 millimeters it’s the largest and nonetheless most masculine of all of the watches on this class. I do know the jury may have numerous enjoyable with it, however I don’t know if it represents the whole lot I feel a women’ watch will be, and it’s performance and wearability maintain it from being my winner.
IS: Konstantin Chaykin’s Harley Quinn is the watch that I’d like to see profitable the Women’ class 2022 only for the shock of it, however I strongly suspect that the jury will ignore the broad smiles on their faces as they deal with it earlier than selecting one thing extra conventional.
Fast Info Konstantin Chaykin Harley Quinn
Case: 40 x 13.5 mm, stainless-steel
Motion: computerized Caliber K07-0, primarily based on ETA 2824-2 with module by Konstantin Chaykin manufacture; 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 38-hour energy reserve
Capabilities: regulator hours and minutes; moon section show
Limitation: 28 items
Value: CHF 19,950
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Computerized
MG: The Tonda PF is without doubt one of the fashions dominating this version of GPHG for all the proper causes. I feel they need to abolish the gender-related classes as I might fortunately put on this 36 mm magnificence with its diamond-set hour markers.
ED: I’ve been saying that for some time now! However I don’t assume we’ll ever see these genderized classes abolished right here, Martin. Custom is sooooo Swiss.
JM: That is my clear winner, and I’m totally conflicted about it. Right here’s why.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Computerized is a barely scaled-down model of the common watch, however not a lot in order that it’s actually solely wearable on tiny wrists. I do know many males who love classic sizing a lot that 36 millimeters is commonly thought-about good. However whereas I want a barely bigger measurement, I’ve to confess that this watch may be an ideal unisex watch. And the small addition of baguette-cut diamond hour markers turns this watch into low-key class and trendy female class.
A dapper dude like Martin Inexperienced would pull this watch off flawlessly, however I additionally assume it may simply grace the wrist of any severe watch-loving girl and develop into the go-to daily-wear piece. It’s considered one of my favourite types (within the bigger measurement) of your complete Tonda PF assortment, and this piece, whereas not designed from the bottom up for ladies, is a particularly stable piece. The scale, dial, markers, bracelet, and materials simply work collectively so nicely that I feel, barring additional problems, jewels, and dazzle, this represents the very best all-around Women’ watch.
The truth is, if Parmigiani made this in the usual 40-millimeter metal with platinum bezel and put purple amethyst, inexperienced emerald, or blue sapphires for the hour markers, I might have a brand new favourite watch from Parmigiani.
ED: You make a particularly compelling argument, Joshua, and you might virtually sway me if I weren’t so emotionally invested within the Arnold & Son timepiece. On the finish of the day, emotion is what a luxurious watch is all about, although.
GG: My second selection is the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Computerized. Parmigiani has lastly settled on a design language that melds the very best options of its early Toric watches with a up to date sensibility, and the mix of dial and case colours, the ending of the bracelet, and the discreet baguette-cut diamond hour markers work collectively to make for a coherent and enticing presentation.
IS: I very practically picked the Tonda PF Computerized to win this class, and I might not be stunned if it did. The 36 mm pink gold case completely frames the darkish chocolate-colored dial that includes a wonderful barleycorn guilloche that gives texture. The hour indexes are invisible-set baguette-cut diamonds, that are concurrently stylish and discreet. I like the elegant minimalism of the design and the truth that it’s prone to be a straightforward watch to put on, but it surely does seem to be extra of a unisex watch than the Chopard. Whereas it shouldn’t, which will affect the jury.
Additional studying: Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor In Metal And Platinum On-The-Wrist Evaluation: A Up to date Chameleon That Stands Out By Becoming In
Fast Info Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatique
Case: 36 x 8.6 mm, moral pink gold
Motion: computerized Caliber PF310 with 60-hour energy reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Capabilities: hours, minutes
Value: CHF 49,500
Van Cleef & Arpels Montre Perlée
MG: This Perlee watch represents a time when women’ watches have been small and chic. Other than the marginally too massive font on the dial, this Van Cleef & Arpels makes a case on how interesting this nonetheless is. The ornament method that they select is intricate but timeless.
ED: These granules! That bracelet! Love at first sight. Till I flip it over and discover that alongside a pushbutton for setting the time, it’s quartz . . .
Further marks for making the bracelet quick-change, although.
JM: The Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée watch is a chunk that quietly enters a room and asks for nothing however distant admiration. It has no jewels to trick you with a glint within the highlight, but it surely seems to be sumptuously made (that bracelet is unbelievable) and elegantly tiny on the wrist. It’s clearly meant to invoke a glamorous previous for trend and jewellery, and it does so with room to spare.
However this works in opposition to it as an all-around women’ watch, and I haven’t even talked about the deadly flaw: the quartz motion. I do know, I do know, quartz is exact and the fruits of centuries of horology, to not point out pretty frequent in very small women’ watches. It actually is beautiful, and for a lot of girls there might be no hesitation to decide on it for fashion and never the motion, however I nonetheless like what I like and assume the jury may have a little bit of a bias right here too and maintain it from taking the highest spot because it doesn’t sport a mechanical motion.
GG: Van Cleef & Arpels makes many sensational watches, however the Perlée with its quartz motion and generic-looking lumpy pearled bezel and bracelet isn’t considered one of them.
IS: I’ve been burned too usually in these GPHG predictions in forgetting that if a watch has been chosen then it’s not for me to query how or why. However as a lot as I attempt to put my private preferences apart, and whereas I acknowledge that the Perlée 23 mm is a really fairly watch, it has a quartz motion, and my choice is for mechanical actions.
Fast Info Van Cleef & Arpels Montre Perlée
Case: 23 x 8.85 mm, yellow gold
Capabilities: hours, minutes
Value: CHF 26,900
Comment: quick-change bracelet
Elizabeth: Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon Eclipse I
Joshua: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Computerized
Martin: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Computerized
Ian: Chopard Alpine Eagle 33
Gary: Chaumet Montre à Secret Déferlante
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