Palms-On: Citizen Promaster Dive Watch Computerized NY0155-58X

Simply one of the crucial well-known dive watches from Citizen’s historical past is the traditional fan-favorite Fugu. The unique Citizen mannequin referred to as the “Fugu” debuted again in 1989, and it has a wealthy historical past that consists of all the things from being utilized by the Italian Navy to beginning many individuals’s collections as their first-ever computerized watch. Nevertheless, the Citizen Fugu was revived in 2018, and it has since resumed its function as one of many standout reasonably priced dive watches from the model’s huge catalog.

The Fugu nickname itself means “pufferfish” in Japanese, and it comes from the watch’s distinct bezel with alternating grooved and clean sections round its periphery. The precise resemblance to a puffer fish is considerably debatable (to say the least), however the identical may be stated about nearly all watch nicknames, no matter whether or not you’re speaking concerning the Seiko “Turtle” or the Rolex “Kermit” Submariner. Watch nicknames can typically be completely casual, however within the case of the Citizen Fugu, it’s one that’s such part of the mannequin’s historical past that you’ll even discover the Fugu title listed in product descriptions on the Citizen web site, and the caseback of the brand new watches themselves are adorned with stylized pufferfish engravings. Since relaunching the Fugu in 2018, Citizen has produced a reasonably important variety of completely different colours and configurations of the mannequin, though the particular model that I’ve in for evaluate is the full-lume dial Fugu with the blacked-out case and bracelet, which is formally referred to as the Citizen Promaster Dive Computerized NY0155-58X. I’m not conscious of a nickname for this actual configuration, however on condition that the “Fugu” moniker applies to the entire vary, and since there are even different Fugu fashions with lume dials or black ion-plated instances, no matter nickname the watch neighborhood comes up with might want to contact on the truth that this variant has each of these options.

Nicknames and nomenclature apart, the 44mm case of the Citizen Fugu measures 13mm-thick with a complete lug-to-lug distance spanning roughly 50mm when you consider the way in which that they barely taper inward to satisfy the sides of the bracelet. Whereas each the case and bracelet are lined in a black ion-plated end, the underlying metallic is given a matte brushed texture throughout the whole lot of its high surfaces, whereas the perimeters of each the case and bracelet hyperlinks are high-polished for a gloss black end. Similar to the unique Fugu mannequin, the trendy model includes a left-handed crown configuration, which locations it on the facet of the case on the 8 o’clock location. The aim of this fairly uncommon structure isn’t to attraction to left-handed people (who solely make up roughly 10% of the inhabitants), however fairly to maintain the crown out of the way in which and protected from hurt. A variety of different Citizen dive watches comply with an analogous strategy of inserting their crowns on the left facet of their instances, and that is one thing that Citizen has been doing for many years. The crown itself is signed with the model’s Promaster emblem and it screws down to assist make sure the watch’s ISO-certified 200 meters of water resistance.

The case extends on both facet of the crown to create small however practical guards, whereas the stable chrome steel screw-down caseback is adorned with an engraving of a pufferfish as a reference to the watch’s well-known nickname. Sitting on high of the case is a flat scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, which is a welcome addition and represents a big step up from the mineral glass crystals which might be most steadily discovered on Citizen’s budget-friendly dive watches. Surrounding the crystal is the Fugu’s signature bezel with alternating grooved and clean sections, which gives 120-click unidirectional movement and is fitted with a black anodized aluminum insert. Whereas the bezel itself is sort of simple to grip, the insert considerably suffers from legibility points. Slightly than having silver numerals printed towards a black floor, the markings on the bezel insert are darkened previous the primary fifteen minutes, which creates a stealthy smoked mirror impact that isn’t obvious when Citizen’s product photographs of the watch. Whereas this insert aesthetically enhances the black ion-plating of the case, its darkened numerals noticeably hinder total legibility in low-light circumstances.

The total-lume dial is probably going one of many important causes somebody would go for this specific model of the Fugu over one in every of its siblings and, as you would possibly anticipate, this dial glows like an absolute torch in the dead of night. Black markings clearly point out the time towards its absolutely luminous floor, whereas the day and date are displayed by means of a single rectangular window on the 3 o’clock location, with a dual-language calendar disc that options its markings for Sunday in pink letters. Like different fully-luminous dials, the one fitted to this variant of the Citizen Fugu isn’t utterly white within the daylight, and it sort of perpetually has this greenish yellow shade, that considerably seems like your watch dial has jaundice. With that in thoughts, the orange accents on each the minute and seconds hand assist mitigate this look by taking part in into its hotter tones and embracing it as a shade on the watch, as an alternative of treating it as one thing that ought to be white and easily isn’t.

The arms themselves are daring and distinctly formed, that means that there’s zero probability of blending them up at a look, particularly contemplating how the minute hand is completed orange. The surfaces of the remainder of the arms are completed black for max distinction with the dial, whereas the areas between their constructions are full of a beneficiant software of luminous materials. Usually, extremely luminous arms on a dive watch could be an excellent factor, however for the reason that dial itself glows on this model of the Citizen Fugu, non-glowing arms would have most likely provided higher total distinction in the dead of night. Granted, watches aren’t at all times about simply pure performance, and it’s not like this specific mannequin precisely suffers from low-light visibility. Half the enjoyable of proudly owning a watch with a completely luminous dial is to see the entire face gentle up everytime you occur to enterprise into the darkish, and the extra glowing elements it has, the extra pleasing it’s for the inside little one inside all of us.

Surrounding the dial itself is an angled chapter ring that can also be absolutely luminescent with a minute observe printed in black. The markings for the five-minute markers seem in a heavier print than the remainder, and the angled construction of the ring provides dimension to the dial. The chapter ring itself is a separate part from the dial floor, much like what one can find on the varied Seiko SKX watches, and right here lies a possible sticking level for the OCD-inclined amongst us. Similar to many watches that function this two-piece development, alignment can typically be hit and miss, and that is one thing that famously plagued the SKX vary whereas it was nonetheless in manufacturing. On the instance that I’ve, the chapter ring alignment is lower than stellar; nevertheless, it’s necessary to keep in mind that what I used to be despatched is a press pattern that has doubtless been handed round a couple of occasions and will not be absolutely indicative of what you’ll really discover among the many watches that make it onto retailer cabinets and into the arms of sellers. Both manner, it’s an necessary level to bear in mind, as alignment generally is a severe sticking level for some collectors and it finally grew to become one thing that obtained mentioned advert nauseum on the varied boards regarding the now-discontinued Seiko SKX vary.

Powering this collection of contemporary Citizen Promaster Fugu watches is the Miyota 8204 computerized motion, which gives hacking, hand winding, and a double quickset for each the day and date shows. Working at a frequency of 21,600vph and providing an influence reserve of roughly 42 hours, the Miyota 8204 may be very a lot a identified amount that’s utilized in numerous completely different self-winding watches all through the trade. Whereas it’s primarily based on Miyota’s entry-level motion platform and gives little horological intrigue with nearly no ornamental ending by any means, the Miyota 8204 is understood for delivering dependable and confirmed efficiency, and it guarantees to do the very same for Citizen’s fashionable Fugu dive watches.

Fitted to this specific variant of the Fugu is a chrome steel bracelet with an identical black ion-plated end. The tip-links and bracelet hyperlinks themselves are all stable in development, though they’re linked by pins fairly than screws. The match of the end-links is healthier than most at this value level, however the clasp is arguably the weakest facet of the complete watch. As they’re pretty intricate elements by nature and obtain fixed bodily manipulation every day, high-quality watch clasps are sometimes one of many harder elements for producers to supply. Expectations should be considerably cheap given the reasonably priced value level of the Fugu, though with Citizen’s unimaginable prowess as a producer, it will have been good to see one thing a bit extra concerned than only a easy stamped metallic fold-over clasp. Some sort of extension system past simply two holes of micro-adjustment would have been a welcome addition — particularly contemplating that that is purported to be a dive watch. This can be a minor quibble, all issues thought of

The Citizen Promaster Dive Computerized NY0155-58X is accompanied by an official retail value of $695 USD, which finally represents a premium of $100 in comparison with what Citizen costs for an in any other case equivalent model of the Fugu that lacks a completely luminous dial and black ion-plated end. Moreover, it’s necessary to keep in mind that Citizen is without doubt one of the world’s largest watch producers, so the Fugu isn’t some boutique-exclusive piece for which you’re assured to pay full retail if you wish to buy one. You’ll steadily discover Citizen watches out there on the market at native malls and department shops, so there’s at all times the chance that you simply would possibly be capable to snag an amazing deal on this blacked-out lume dial Fugu throughout some vacation sale or seasonal low cost occasion. Many dive watches can comply with related total designs, however the Citizen Fugu gives a definite aesthetic that’s emblematic of the model’s design language and gives a ton of enjoyable on the wrist for considerably lower than a thousand {dollars}. For extra info, please go to the producer’s web site.