Glashütte-based Moritz Grossmann was revived again in 2008 and has been creating some really spectacular and meticulously crafted watches ever since. With an annual output someplace between 200-300 items, it’s unlikely you’ll spot one within the wild, however that’s all simply a part of the enchantment. Inevitably drawing comparisons to a few of neighboring A. Lange & Söhne’s handwerkskunst items, Moritz Grossmann launched the Tremblage watch late final yr to have a good time the model’s thirteenth birthday.
For these not acquainted, tremblage is an extremely tough and complicated technique of engraving through which the crafter makes use of a really fine-tipped chisel often called a burin to create a granulated texture. To maintain the consistency and uniformity throughout such a small piece of steel (German silver right here) takes years and years of coaching and observe.
Except for some items in Lange’s catalog, I actually don’t see a lot tremblage on the market as a result of it’s extremely tough to realize, and the expertise pool of engravers who’ve mastered the approach may be very small. Carried out in German silver (which has a definite heat to it), the dial is glimmeringly frosty and remarkably uniform, contemplating it’s all finished by hand. Equally spectacular are the numerals, model insignia, and minutes observe, which are literally raised parts of the identical piece of German silver the place the tremblage is completed on the bottom (versus being utilized). These raised parts are then finished with a flat-polish end. That’s a dedication to the craft and strategy of engraving that’s not often seen.
Seen right here is the chrome steel mannequin, which has blued metal palms, whereas the rose-gold variant has the strikingly lovely darkish violet palms that Moritz Grossmann has usually used. Slender and exact, the lance-shaped palms assist give that old-world pocket watch really feel. Past that, they’re completely the proper size, with the minutes hand correctly extending to the minutes observe.
Turning the 41mm-wide and 11.35mm-thick case over reveals the impressively completed pocket watch-inspired calibre 100.1 manual-wind motion. Earlier than that, pay attention to the small pusher on the aspect of the case by 4 o’clock. Developed by Moritz Grossmann, this pusher solves a difficulty we’ve all skilled sooner or later. After pulling the crown and setting the time, partaking the pusher reactivates the motion moderately than the crown being pushed again in. This prevents any motion from the palms that usually occurs when the crown is pushed again in. When the pusher is engaged, the crown reverts to winding moderately than setting time. A artful and clever resolution to a typical drawback.
The Calibre 100.1 operates at 18,000 vph and has a 42-hour energy reserve. It’s classically designed with its two-third bridge finished in German silver with a wonderful granular end. I like the gold chatons with unusual white sapphire, the hand-engraved M. Grossmann Glashütte textual content, and darkish violet screws. The snailing on the ratchet wheel can also be immaculate, as is the hand-engraving on the stability and escape wheel cocks. It’s a meticulously completed motion that greater than holds its personal in opposition to Grossmann’s better-known Saxon neighbor.
The Moritz Grossman Tremblage is a outstanding piece of watchmaking that boasts a really uncommon and superbly finished dial. In actual fact, there’s actually not a lot on the market prefer it save for the aforementioned handwerkskunst items from Lange that simply exceed six-figures. Although it’s not a restricted version, the annual output of a pair hundred watches per yr ought to provide you with an thought of how few examples of those might be produced. Given the extraordinary dial and top-notch motion finishes, the Moritz Grossmann Tremblage within reason priced at roughly $36,000 in metal and $48,400 in rose gold. You may be taught extra at en.grossmann-uhren.com.