Below still-new management from Mr. Guido Terreni (previously of Bulgari), Parmigiani Fleurier is attempting to be the anti-Rolex, anti-Patek Philippe luxurious watch model. Celebrating 25 years of existence after having been based by the extraordinarily proficient Mr. Michel Parmigiani, the Swiss model at the moment is focusing its virtues round a watch assortment generally known as the Parmigiani Tonda PF. This assortment features a novel case and bracelet design, which is paired to a couple watch fashions that start with the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor, a easy two-hand with date mannequin outfitted with one of many model’s skinny and exquisite in-house micro-rotor-based computerized actions.
Parmigiani at present presents the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor watch in each a metal and 18k rose gold model. aBlogtoWatch lately did a full profile of the Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Metal watch right here. In that article, we discuss extra concerning the background of the Tonda PF assortment, what it means to Parmigiani, and what the entry-level (nonetheless $2o,000+) metal model of the Tonda PF is all about. As we speak, I step it up and discuss concerning the reference PFC914-2020001-200182 Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Rose Gold watches which are greater than double the worth with a case and bracelet produced from treasured steel.
Once I mentioned earlier that Parmigiani desires to be an “anti-Patek” of types, the implication is that Parmigiani isn’t attempting to be a classy watch or a alternative for individuals who are merely trying to be quickly modern. Parmigiani has all the time executed nicely with “free-thinkers” who characterize the rebels of luxurious purchasers who get probably the most enjoyment from carrying one thing beautiful and distinctive, versus one thing well-known and standard. Debate if you’ll the design deserves of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, however nobody can debate the truth that carrying one comes with lots of “social recognition” within the type of “have a look at you displaying off your costly watch.” Parmigiani doesn’t need any a part of this as a result of the thought is that individuals are carrying the Patek to flex their wealth, not their tradition. In keeping with Parmigiani, individuals who put on its watches are as an alternative flexing their tradition and training.
It is because of this that among the many many model virtues of Parmigiani, one is a concentrate on the delicate artwork of subtlety. What does that imply? In a way, it signifies that the values and qualities inherent within the watches aren’t instantly apparent and in lots of situations require shut inspection to understand. Maybe the very best instance within the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor watches is the dials. The dials are literally produced utilizing a hand-operated guilloché engraving machine course of that has historic benefit and is very regarded amongst collectors. The feel (which on this dial is a method the model calls “Guilloché Grain d’orge”) produced by guilloché machine engraving is normally a bit deeper and extra visually apparent. Michel Parmigiani wished to go the other route. He wished to make a dial for the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor that required shut inspection to see the fragile curves of the engraved traces. He wished the expertise of appreciating the craft in every Tonda PF to be a really private expertise. In a way, this can be a manifestation of the “luxurious for you, however not for everybody” mentality that lots of seasoned luxurious consumers do recognize.
As you may see, small, deliberate textures are an enormous deal on this watch whether or not it’s the small and exact “coin edging” on the case bezel or the best way wherein the hour markers are formed and designed. The dial is an exquisite train in combining trendy minimalist style preferences with old-world strategies designed to advertise legibility and visible magnificence. I’ve heard that some individuals assume the hour markers are proportionally too small on the dial. I suppose I can recognize that sentiment, however the feeling roughly disappears while you put on the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor watches for any time period and recognize the effectiveness of the dial. The instrument watch lover in me does miss the provision of a seconds hand, however the design lover in me very a lot appreciates the symmetry and focus of the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor face; even the date window contributes positively to the general composition.
There are additionally complaints that the Tonda PF dials are too minimalistic from a textual content perspective. Accordingly, the dial has no spelled-out model identify (simply the graphical “PF” emblem), and the one different textual content on the dial is the “Swiss Made” label. None of this bothers me. If you wish to know what model made this watch all you’ll want to do is flip the case over. Parmigiani quite enjoys the concept not everybody seeing this timepiece on somebody’s wrist will know what “PF” stands for. This goes to the ethos that Parmigiani watches aren’t for everybody and that appreciating the model and the concepts of Mr. Parmigiani himself requires tradition and class. Parmigiani is fully non-apologetic about desirous to attraction to “these within the know,” versus novice luxurious consumers. In different phrases, the main focus of the model shall be to provide watches for individuals who have the expertise to understand what Parmigiani creates, and never “familiar-looking” luxurious merchandise meant to attraction to the mainstream. I believe it occurs to be a clever transfer.
That mentioned, the general kind and case profile of the 40mm-wide (7.8mm-thick) Tonda PF Micro-Rotor case matches throughout the now-popular “built-in bracelet” watch pattern. Parmigiani is providing its personal tackle this standard luxurious watch style. A lot of the patron habits is targeted round steel-based watches on this class (which Parmigiani makes and that we reviewed within the hyperlink above), however gold is oftentimes a fair higher possibility. Why, precisely? One good cause is that most of the standard metal watches on this watch type class are promoting for gold watch costs. Gold has a colour and attract that many individuals want over metal (if given a alternative). So for about the identical cash, why not simply go along with a gold watch? I, for one, relish any alternative to put on a gold watch on a bracelet, and what a cushty carrying expertise Parmigiani has created for us with the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor.
Sporting consolation and practicality earn very excessive ranks with the Tonda PF. The case is comfy, the bracelet is simple to reside with, and the case is water resistant to 100 meters. As our David Bredan identified when reviewing the metal model of the Tonda PF, it isn’t a sports activities watch, but it surely additionally isn’t a fragile watch in any respect. Moderately, that is meant to be a high-sophistication each day put on watch that may go from informal apparel to a proper setting simply. This carrying versatility is exactly why built-in bracelet watches are so standard for males lately. Few individuals will in all probability like my description, however one of the best ways to know this type of watches is as daily-wear practical jewellery for males.
Contained in the watch and visual via the sapphire crystal caseback is the in-house Parmigiani caliber PF703 computerized motion. At solely about 3mm-thick, this very skinny micro-rotor-based computerized motion is comprised of 160 components and incorporates a lavish quantity of sprucing and ornament, together with extra guilloché work on the rotor. The motion operates at 3Hz with an influence reserve of 48 hours. Indicators embrace the time with simply hours and minutes, in addition to a date indicator window positioned at 6 o’clock on the dial.
The truth that carrying a Tonda PF permits timepiece lovers to concentrate on the watch itself and the design it presents, versus its problem to get or the standing carrying it implies, is frankly very refreshing. I like a Patek Philippe Nautilus or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, however I appear to be among the many rising ranks of collectors who resent the message that carrying one (not to mention attempting to get one) implies about carrying these watches. That mentioned, I’ve no method of understanding what the demand shall be for the Tonda PF, and curiosity would possibly outstrip manufacturing on condition that Parmigiani Fleurier remains to be an unique luxurious watchmaker that has sensible limits on the variety of watches it could actually ship. Already on the outset of the Tonda PF assortment, Parmigiani is struggling to fulfill demand.
For anybody who has appreciated Parmigiani previously however felt that the model’s choices have been too avant-garde, the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is a superb alternative. It combines a lot of why the model is value liking and the shapes related to Mr. Parmigiani’s design ethos with a really sensible and wearable expertise that the majority timepiece fanatics can wrap their minds round. For many who need much more complexity in such a mannequin, Parmigiani produces just a few different variations of the Tonda PF, together with an annual calendar with moonphase mannequin, a chronograph, and in addition a extremely sophisticated 5Hz split-second chronograph. Worth for the reference PFC914-2020001-200182 Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro Rotor Rose Gold watch is 49,000 Swiss Francs. Be taught extra on the Parmigiani watches web site right here.
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