When the identify Vulcain comes into the dialog, your mind ought to (rightfully) have one thing very particular in thoughts… A watch that has cast the model’s success since 1947, a watch with a complication that’s nonetheless a uncommon gem of the business. I’m, after all, speaking concerning the Cricket alarm watch, the identical complication that was relaunched as a flagship mannequin to mark the model’s latest revival. However there’s at all times extra to a model’s story than a single watch. Vulcain is a treasure trove of sleeping beauties. Persevering with with the nostalgic vibe of the Cricket, the model revives one other classic watch with the brand new Vulcain Skindiver Nautique 38mm.
This new dive watch depends on a basic but efficient recipe involving the re-edition of a classic mannequin with minor updates to reinforce use and efficiency. In brief, a design of the previous and mechanics and supplies of the current. I’m not even going to start out naming different manufacturers which have used this recipe previously ten years; I’d be writing the listing for the following week! What issues, nevertheless, is that behind the comeback of Vulcain is a person named Guillaume Laidet. And he has proved that he is aware of learn how to breathe new life into dormant manufacturers and superb watches of the previous with convincing fashions introduced within the body of the revival of Nivada Grenchen and Excelsior Park. And the return of the Vulcain Cricket Alarm has been executed identically utilizing classic design and proportions combined with discreet trendy touches.
Now, with the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique, the model enters a section that feels much less pure at first. Aside from hardcore fans, few know that Vulcain entered the dive market as early as 1960 with a watch that’s the mom of the current mannequin. There’s nothing significantly unique about this Sixties watch; it was a part of the Skindiver section, which means extra compact, much less hardcore fashions oriented in the direction of leisure dives. And its design, if interesting, feels fairly “deja-vu” and shares components present in different portfolios. That being mentioned, it’s a somewhat beautiful watch, with every thing classic dive watch lovers will take pleasure in.
Quick-forward to 2023, and Vulcain is again with a watch that appears virtually an identical to its classic ancestor. As we talked about, Laidet actually is aware of learn how to re-edit retro watches. He’s executed it efficiently with Nivada Grenchen – the re-edition of the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver is a compelling instance of his technique – and with Excelsior Park. And the return of the Cricket was executed in a really nice method too. What about this Vulcain Skindiver Nautique? Let’s discover out.
The fundamentals first. Visually, the resemblance is simple, and the 1960 and 2023 fashions share a whole lot of design components – particularly the black mannequin. The case is a basic of the vintage-inspired dive watch section, with comparatively quick lugs, a slim black bezel, a domed crystal mimicking the outdated plexiglass and an outsized crown with out protecting guards. Even the proportions have been revered, with a compact 38mm diameter and 12.2mm peak.
Specs… Traditional too, but with trendy touches. First, the case is made based on 2020’s high quality requirements, and the consequence feels far more stable than a Sixties watch. The lugs are brushed with a slim polished bevel to animate an in any other case fairly generic case. The bezel is unidirectional now, fluted on the flanks and incorporates a black, polished ceramic insert on high with a completely graduated 60-minute scale. The markers are quick and slim, and the bezel stays discreet in appears and proportions. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, the crown screws down, the caseback is stable metal with engravings, and the water-resistance is rated at 200m – an interesting, basic and well-executed recipe.
What’s been mentioned concerning the case will also be mentioned concerning the dials, particularly the black model. Certainly, two editions of the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique will likely be provided; the matte black dial and a extra trendy and bolder vertically brushed blue dial. Other than the color, the dials are an identical with slim, elongated white minute markers, baton fingers and painted luminous markers for the hours, which depend on a mixture of dots, rectangles and a triangle at midday. No date has been positioned on the dial, sticking to the look of the unique mannequin. Though all of the printings are up to date to match the trendy motion specs and luminous materials specs, they underscore the classic look.
Underneath the caseback of the Skindiver Nautique is a tried-and-tested motion. It’s not an in-house engine, just like the Cricket, however a stable ETA2824. This automated motion wants little introduction and is understood for its reliability, its very first rate precision and its means to be serviced by all. Nothing fancy, nevertheless it does the job completely on this context.
Each examples of the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique 38mm are worn on black leather-based straps with a carbon sample, closed by a metal pin buckle and geared up with quick-release spring bars. It’s a little bit of a stunning selection, visually and when it comes to diving capacities… A tropic-like rubber strap, utilized by many opponents, would certainly be extra satisfactory. I’m positive the model will supply extra choices within the close to future.
The 2 examples of the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique 38mm launched earlier right this moment on the model’s web site can be found for orders, with deliveries anticipated in February 2023. They’re priced at CHF 1,490 (or about EUR 1,480 incl. taxes).
Intrinsically, the brand new Skindiver Nautique is a satisfying watch. Properly designed, well-proportioned and critically constructed, it has many arguments for classic dive watch lovers. It’s, nevertheless, getting into a extremely aggressive market and faces watches just like the Oris Divers Sixty-5, the Longines Legend Diver, the Yema Superman or the Seiko 62MAS Interpretations. Not a simple activity, to be trustworthy, however this Vulcain Skindiver Nautique has an simple allure and a worth that feels honest (not significantly low cost, however honest).
For extra particulars, please go to vulcain.ch.