Each time I write the phrases “comparatively reasonably priced” right here on Quill & Pad, I’ve to brace myself for the stream of feedback reminding me that I need to stay in an alternate actuality to a lot of the world. Spoiler alert: I do know that I do.
Lesson realized. I cannot describe the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono as comparatively reasonably priced (although in comparison with a lot of the watches we overview on Quill & Pad I believe it effectively deserves that description), however I do assume that it’s improbable worth and the discount of the 12 months, so shoot me for that!
Right here’s why.
Patria historical past
Patria was based in Biel in 1892 by Swiss watchmaker Louis Brandt, who additionally based Omega. Brandt can also be recognized for making the world’s first minute repeater wristwatch. The Patria model grew to become recognized in World Struggle I for its army trench watches, which had been issued to British troopers. By 1917, the Patria 13’’’ army wristwatch was extensively utilized by troopers on account of its visible-in-the-dark radium numerals, metal shrapnel guard, and easy-to-wear 36 mm case. However by the Nineteen Forties, Brandt’s firm had put its concentrate on different manufacturers (I’m you, Omega) and the Patria model light away.
Then in 2019, Jolyon Lambert, a British industrial designer with a profitable watch design and 3D watch rendering firm known as Blade Render, purchased the Patria title with plans to carry the model again to its former glory.
Lambert likes chronographs and he likes lovely actions: the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono is step one in his strategy of relaunching Patria.
Whereas the prototype went public in 2019 (see Patria: Historic Title, Classic Look, New Know-how, And FlybackColumn Wheel Chronograph), largely because of COVID it’s taken one other two years of growth to get the manufacturing mannequin to the standard Lambert has insisted on.
Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono
Lambert’s purpose with Patria is to supply comparatively (sorry) reasonably priced haute horlogerie, so certainly one of my first inquiries to him wasn’t “Why a chronograph?” however “Why a flyback chronograph?” His reply was, “I like drama in a motion.” That’s additionally why he selected to make use of Eterna Caliber 39 as a base motion: it not solely had a flyback chronograph, he might modify it with a horizontal clutch column wheel so as to add much more pizzazz.
As befitting a military-style watch, the arms and numerals are huge and daring, making them extremely legible, whereas plentiful Tremendous-LumiNova ensures that they’re simply as legible at night time.
However for me, it’s the motion that makes the Brigadier Flyback Chrono so interesting. It’s very properly completed for a watch at this value level (under $6,000), and the blued screws and blued column wheel chronograph clutch actually pop via the show again.
I do have one gripe: personally, I’d want the watch with out the date at 6 o’clock, however hats off to Patria for going to the difficulty (and further price) of getting the date wheel match the dial. That’s a element usually missed on watches costing far more.
Why the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono is sweet worth
Whereas I believe that 5,285 Swiss francs (on leather-based strap) is already good worth for a properly completed, Swiss made, low-volume (92 items solely), flyback, column wheel chronograph, right here’s a number of extra issues that make this watch distinctive worth for cash.
1. The case may be very effectively made by a provider to massive, prestigious Swiss manufacturers.
2. The screws, column wheel, and flyback cam are heat-blued; at this value level I may need anticipated painted screws.
3. The Tremendous-LumiNova colours had been specifically developed for Patria to supply a extra classic really feel.
4. The watches are assembled and controlled at Patria’s atelier in Biel, Switzerland; at this value level I may need anticipated them to be assembled in Asia.
5. Date wheel matches the dial.
6. The Milanese mesh strap possibility is an fascinating twist for one thing a bit completely different.
7. The high-quality presentation case is burl walnut, lacquered in Patria burgundy, and velvet lined.
The Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono is a restricted version of simply 92 items in whole, there will probably be no extra variations on the theme. In my view, it affords distinctive worth for the worth. So if you’re run, don’t stroll, as I think they may promote out comparatively shortly.
I’m wanting ahead to what Patria does subsequent. Watch this house.
For extra data, please go to patriawatch.co/timepieces.
Fast Info Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono
Case: 42 x 15.6 mm, chrome steel
Motion: automated Caliber PA-16 (Eterna Caliber 3916), 60-hour energy reserve, column wheel clutch, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Features: hours, minutes, hacking seconds; date, flyback chronograph
Limitation: 92 items
Worth: 5,285 Swiss francs (leather-based strap), 5,640 Swiss francs (mesh bracelet)