Whereas a far cry from its founder’s imaginative and prescient for haute horlogerie, Roger Dubois is a model that by no means shies away from innovation, even when it means scaring off a couple of folks. For Watches and Wonders 2023, Roger Dubois has gone proper forward and rethought not simply the chronograph, however how a watch is even wound. Pitching it as the following step in “Hyper Horology,” the all-new Roger Dubois Monovertex Cut up-Seconds Chronograph is full of a completely new winding system, a 360-degree tourbillon, and a retrograde chronograph show, housed in an avant-garde case created from ultralight supplies—in case your pockets are deep sufficient, this looks like the watch of the long run. Additionally, it appears prefer it was made for Iron Man.
Beginning with the best facet attainable, let’s discuss in regards to the case. Whereas measuring carpal tunnel-inducing 47mm, it’s created from Mineral Composite Fibre, created from 99.5% silica and a couple of.5 occasions lighter than ceramic and greater than 10% lighter than carbon. The case is accented with pink gold (for the crowns, pushers, crown guard, and glued bezel), carbon, and gray and black-coated titanium, capped with a sapphire crystal. The shape is dramatic and futuristic, like all of the manufacturers watches: the signature triple-lugs descend like talons from the top of the watch, flowing into the fitted leather-based and rubber perforated strap. The principle crown is at 2 o’clock, whereas pushers look like situated reverse one another at 4 and 10 o’clock—their precise capabilities, and whether or not the crown might embrace its personal pusher, is unclear. Additionally unclear is the water resistance—although actually, who cares?—however many of the model’s items are 50m, in order that’s most likely a protected wager right here.
There are some issues which are, actually, moderately regular in regards to the watch. It has an hour hand and a minute hand, lumed and in pink gold; and two chronograph palms, main and rattrapante. It additionally has pink gold hour markers that double as a minutes scale. You begin getting a sense that issues are totally different while you see the floating tachymeter scale, a translucent ring across the dial with numbers in pink, together with “88.” That’s highlighted as a result of 8 was founder Roger Dubois’ fortunate quantity and the present model, having diverged so aggressively from its founder’s imaginative and prescient have sought to determine some hyperlink again to him, nevertheless tenuous. Past these components, issues get loopy.
Beginning at twelve, you’ll see a pink barrel-like construction and undoubtedly surprise what that’s. That is an automated watch, and should you search for a rotor of any form on the motion facet, you’ll be trying to find some time. The Monovertex employs a first-of-its-kind “Turborotor Cylindrical Oscillating Weight,” which makes use of gravity to spin upon its axis and wind the watch. That is showboating, but it surely’s very cool showboating. Shifting to three o’clock we now have what seems to be some numbered show. Dubbed the Rotating Minute Counter, this 120-degree arc shows the chronograph minutes. The 0-3-6-9 on the sting of the dial are mounted and characterize those place, whereas the 0-1-2 nearer to the pink gold point out the tens place and have small pointers as they hint the arc. As image above, zero minutes have elapsed. This strategy does have the limitation of solely having the ability to monitoring 40-minute intervals.
At 6 o’clock is the ability reserve. It’s so deceptively easy that I frolicked gazing it within the picture, anticipating one thing extremely difficult and considering that the colour on the ability scale modified because the mainspring barrel beneath it unwound. Nevertheless it seems it’s easy a scale on sapphire, hovering over the mainspring barrel. When the barrel is absolutely wound, its edge aligns with the rightmost bar on the dimensions; when it’s out of juice, it extends to the left. You’re welcome.
Lastly, at 9 o’clock, we now have the Conical Monovortex™ Tourbillon. Not like conventional and even two-axis tourbillons, this one spins 360 levels, basically eliminating the results of gravity because it by no means rests on a single aircraft, even when the wearer isn’t going wherever. It includes a 60-second rotation and I’m positive is enjoyable to observe. In reality, with all the flamboyant gizmos to have a look at, I think about one would discover themselves wanting on the watch much less typically to inform time than to marvel at every part else it does.
The derring-do of the watch itself might make you assume that the motion can be extra industrial in its execution, however rolling the watch over, it’s clear that’s not the case. The all-new RD114 Caliber options the identical ending you may anticipate from F.P. Journe or Greubel Forsey (and with costs to match), although elements of the structure make it extra trendy, together with the block pink gold bridges, black curved geartrain bridges, and its mix of brushed and matte parts. Apart from what we decipher from images, particulars are sparse, however the automated winding mechanism and 360-degree tourbillon ought to hold issues buzzing alongside properly, whereas the chronograph mechanism makes use of a double column wheel system.
That is the Kool-Help Man of watches. It bursts by the wall, shouts “OH YEAH!,” and doesn’t apologize. Consistent with the model’s dedication to pushing boundaries, the Monovertex Cut up-Seconds Chronograph rethinks many horological gadgets that we take as a right. Whether or not these wanted rethinking or not isn’t the purpose; the purpose is that rethinking them pushes them, and horology as a complete, a bit additional forward. Roger Dubuis was unable to offer pricing on the time of publishing, although its watches begin at $41,000 and go as much as $815,000, and I’d anticipate this one to be on the higher finish. For extra info, please go to the model’s web site.
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