Seiko has all the time made it a degree to ship bang to your buck. Even on the Japanese model’s entry stage, its watches don’t disappoint and sometimes whet the urge for food of budding watch fanatics, encouraging them to take the following step.
Inside the Seiko assortment, the Prospex line is for individuals who favor one thing sporty, whereas the Presage represents a extra traditional heritage fashion for the Japanese model.
Seiko Presage References SNR037J1 (left) and SNR039J1
Seiko Reference SRPD37J1: buying and selling up
In recent times Seiko has been realigning its totally different collections with the purpose of providing collectors thrilling merchandise in each worth class. For the Presage, which means there at the moment are two tiers to the gathering: Status and Fundamental.
Seiko Presage Reference SRPD37J1
I feel that Seiko sells itself brief with the latter, because the “Fundamental” line nonetheless seems fairly elaborate to me. Reference SRPD37J1, priced at €430, is an efficient place to begin for the Presage assortment – and it has a hanging inexperienced dial, which I like.
Whereas the case form is perhaps a bit (too) simple for some when it comes to design, it’s effectively polished and gives a stage for the actual spotlight: its dial. With its deeply ridged design and forest-green hue, is it a real eye-catcher.
Right here we additionally see Seiko’s intensive expertise as a watch producer and proof of its refusal to chop corners. Each the hour markers and fingers are designed in order that they all the time replicate mild. Even the date wheel has a background coloration matching the dial, a element usually both ignored by others or intentionally omitted to chop value.
Legibility and design are in excellent stability. With its diameter of 40.5 and top of 11.8 mm, its measurement can be modern. Whereas its computerized Caliber 4R35 is just not essentially the most thrilling motion within the business, it’s a strong and exact manufacture caliber.
Seiko Presage Reference SSA343J1
One step up from Reference SRPD37J1 is Seiko Presage Reference SSA343J1. This watch follows the identical recipe, however is barely extra difficult because it comes with a power-reserve indicator and a date subdial.
Right here additionally it is the powder-blue dial that gives the watch with essentially the most character – greater than ordinary at this worth level. These watches appear and feel considerably dearer on the wrist than they really are as Seiko presently prices simply €540 for Reference SSA343J1.
A part of the Presage assortment’s Fundamental line, that is the place for collectors who’re beginning out and seeking to step up.
Fast Info Seiko Presage SRPD37J1
Case: 40.5 x 11.8 mm, chrome steel
Motion: computerized Seiko Caliber 4R35, energy reserve 41 hours, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Worth: €430
Fast Info Seiko Presage SSA343J1
Case: 40.5 x 14.4 mm, chrome steel
Motion: computerized Seiko Caliber 4R57, energy reserve 41 hours, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; date; energy reserve
Worth: €540
Buying and selling down
However what if we flip it round? Can the Presage assortment additionally tempt extra seasoned collectors? Those that already personal watches from premium manufacturers costing a number of occasions that which Seiko prices for its Presage fashions?
I feel that that is doable for 2 causes. First, as is customary with Seiko, the extent of ending of the case, dial, and fingers is all the time a stage greater than you’d count on from its worth level.
The second is that these watches are profoundly Japanese. They don’t compete with the Swiss on their phrases however play at their very own desk. This turns into particularly clear within the Status line of the Presage assortment, the place Seiko provides treats not discovered elsewhere.
Seiko Presage: enamel galore
One of many issues Seiko makes use of on fairly a big scale throughout the Status line is enamel. Seiko does marvelous issues with this materials, each in extroverted and introverted methods.
Seiko Presage Reference SPB073J1
I nonetheless keep in mind being introduced with Reference SPB073J1 with its Shippo enamel dial for the very first time. I used to be first proven the brand new Grand Seiko fashions and distinctly keep in mind seeing the Presage mannequin after these, and I didn’t in any respect really feel prefer it had been a step down.
Even immediately I’m nonetheless taken by its gorgeous, vivid blue dial, which reveals such a spectacular play of sunshine that it’s arduous to do it justice in pictures. It will get this, in addition to its depth, by the translucent blue enamel utilized over a guilloche engraved dial. Shippo is roughly the identical method that the Swiss name flinqué, though the guilloche fashion on the dial offers the SPB073J1 a novel twist in comparison with the normal Swiss variation.
In recent times Seiko has additionally fortunately turn into extra vocal in regards to the craftspeople behind its watches. This makes them rather more private, in my view, because it takes away the nameless really feel of those creations and offers us a extra direct hyperlink to the traditional crafts mastered by these craftspeople and utilized on these watches.
Seiko Presage Reference SPB073J1
It additionally places issues into extra perspective. The clear blue enamel of the SPB073J1 is utilized by hand by Wataru Totani. This artisan works at Ando Cloisonné, an enamel workshop in Nagoy based again in 1880.
Whereas I really feel that the worth of €1,650 could be very aggressive, some may argue the distinction comes extra from the usage of its Caliber 6R27 motion. This may additionally be one of many few issues that would doubtlessly flip collectors who’re used to dearer, higher-end watches off.
Whereas the motion is succesful and comes with an influence reserve indicator and a small date, it’s not completed to Grand Seiko requirements. Because the watch is fitted with a see-through case again the ending turns into apparent. Whereas such a case again is perhaps appreciated by a collector on their “approach up,” I really feel {that a} strong case again may need been extra acceptable. It might make the watch extra balanced as there wouldn’t be such a distinction between the very refined dial and its industrial-style completed motion.
However allow us to even be real looking about this: if Seiko used this identical dial in a watch with a Grand Seiko motion, its worth could be a number of occasions extra.
Fast Info Seiko Presage SPB073J1
Case: 40.6 x 14.1 mm, chrome steel
Dial: enamel
Motion: computerized Seiko Caliber 6R57, energy reserve 45 hours, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; date, energy reserve
Limitation: 2,500 items
Worth: €1,650
Whereas the SPB073J1 is somewhat extroverted, Seiko as a model can be expert in delivering understated watches. Reference SPB173J1 is an ideal instance of this. Its dial has a sea-green coloration to it, which makes it fairly misleading as not many individuals will acknowledge this as additionally being an enamel dial.
Seiko Presage Reference SPB173J1
This, I have to say, is a part of its enchantment and likewise the foundation of its rarity. Its chrome steel bracelet offers the watch a barely sportive edge, which is a bit at odds with the dial and its Roman numerals. Whereas the bracelet can simply be modified for a leather-based strap – and I’d counsel a mahogany-colored deer leather-based for that – it may additionally be a part of the attraction as its steel bracelet makes it much more understated, a mix you don’t normally count on with an enamel dial.
Fast Info Seiko Presage SPB173J1
Case: 40.5 x 12.8 mm, chrome steel
Motion: computerized Seiko Caliber 6R57, energy reserve 45 hours, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; date, energy reserve
Worth: €1,500
Reference SPB115J1 is probably much more curious as a result of its brown enamel. I nonetheless am not sure what to think about it, however very probably as a result of within the 20 years that I’ve been concerned within the watch business, I’ve turn into used to seeing primarily black and white enamel.
Seiko Presage Reference SPB115J1
The design of this Seiko is impressed by a clock from 1977 designed by Riki Watanabe. He based his design studio in 1949, making it the primary of its type in Japan. His practical fashion of minimalistic magnificence has made its mark for many years on on a regular basis objects within the houses and workplaces of many Japanese, making him a cultural icon.
Whereas additionally obtainable with a white enamel dial, the brown makes it barely eccentric. I consider that that is certainly what some collectors are searching for: an uncommon watch made with uncommon care, which it’s worthwhile to be within the know to understand.
Fast Info Seiko Presage SPB115J1
Case: 39.9 x 12.4 mm, chrome steel
Dial: enamel
Motion: computerized Seiko Caliber 6R35, energy reserve 70 hours, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Worth: €1,200
Seiko Presage: valuable porcelain
Enamel is just not the one upscale materials to take the stage within the Status line. Porcelain is one other deal with that Seiko provides within the Presage assortment.
Whereas most individuals within the western world are acquainted with Meissen and Limoges porcelain, Arita will be seen because the Japanese equal. What makes it distinctive is that it’s tougher than most different porcelain sorts and combines this high quality with a unprecedented white coloration.
Seiko Presage Reference SPB115J1
The manufacture has been in existence since 1830, honing its abilities ever since. The dial of Reference SPB171J1 contains a subdial for the date and an influence reserve indicator each barely recessed beneath the remainder of the dial.
That is far more difficult to make, nevertheless it additionally reveals off the properties of this porcelain in such an exquisite approach. In the best mild, the dial’s curves make it seem like the porcelain is flowing like creamy recent milk. This luscious texture is a pleasure normally reserved for the proprietor of the piece, which due to this fact makes it a profoundly non-public delight that’s sure to place a smile in your face each time you see it.
Fast Info Seiko Presage SPB171J1
Case: 40.6 x 14.1 mm, chrome steel
Dial: Arita porcelain
Motion: computerized Seiko Caliber 6R27, energy reserve 45 hours, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; date, energy reserve
Limitation: 2,000 items
Worth: €2,100
Seiko Presage Urushi enamel: for the fountain pen fanatic
As a passionate person of fountain pens, the heritage that Japan has in that discipline is just not misplaced on me. Manufacturers like Sailor and Namiki first launched me a few years in the past to the humanities of Urushi and Maki-e.
Urushi is a pure type of lacquer constituted of the oil harvested from the Asian lacquer tree ortoxicodendron vernicifluum. The difficult half is that this tree’s sap is toxic and must be dealt with in a really explicit technique to keep away from getting sick or worse.
Seiko Presage Reference SJE081J1
Making use of Urushi lacquer evenly is one other problem these artists face. It’s somewhat difficult to cope with and requires a brush made from hair in simply the best texture. Nonetheless, when all these challenges have been overcome, the reward makes all of it worthwhile.
Because the Urushi lacquer hardens, it takes in moisture from the air. This makes the lacquer each very shiny and really strong. Whereas most other forms of lacquer are somewhat fragile, Urushi is simply the other: it might probably stand up to water, acids, alcohol, and temperature adjustments. For this reason it’s even appropriate for practical gadgets akin to fountain pens and tableware.
Seiko additionally makes use of it within the Presage assortment for Reference SJE081J1. This can be a somewhat understated mannequin, displaying time and date with Arabic numerals to point the hours.
These have all the identical coloration, besides the twelve: right here Seiko utilized one other historic Japanese adorning method, Maki-e, to set it aside. This system includes gold mud being utilized utilizing a small brush, including an attractive distinction to the jet-black Urushi lacquer dial.
As these strategies are so profoundly Japanese, they offer the SJE081J1 one thing distinctive – and arduous to repeat. Even when a Swiss model makes use of the identical strategies, they appear to lose a few of their legitimacy as they aren’t a part of the cultural heritage.
Priced at €3,900 this Presage doesn’t come low-cost, however on the identical time additionally it is nearly with out rival as no different main model has used these demanding strategies on this approach.
Fast Info Seiko Presage SJE081J1
Case: 39.5 x 10.9 mm, chrome steel
Dial: Urushi lacquer with Maki-e twelve numeral
Motion: computerized Seiko Caliber 6L35, energy reserve 45 hours, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Worth: €3,900
Seiko Presage: Spring Drive
The highest of the Status line is represented by Reference SNR037J1 and Reference SNR039J1. These watches launched a motion acquainted from the Grand Seiko line into the Presage assortment: Caliber 5R65 options Seiko’s proprietary Spring Drive know-how, which supplies the mechanical motion an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per 30 days.
Seiko Presage Reference SNR037J1
This motion ensures that there’s additionally extra stability between the enamel dial and the see-through case again as the extent of ending is far greater. You do pay for that – €4,650 is just not precisely discount basement – however on the identical time you additionally get plenty of watch, nonetheless making it good worth for cash.
Seiko provides these fashions with both a black (SNR039J1) or white (SNR037J1) enamel dial with daring Arabic numerals and classically formed fingers. The enamel’s enchantment turns into particularly clear across the date window and energy reserve indicator, the place it flows a bit inward, very similar to the Arita porcelain Reference SPB171J1 above.
Seiko Presage Reference SNR039J1
This delicate element makes you understand what a unprecedented watch you might have in your wrist time and time once more. In my view, this particularly makes it the unique delicacy appreciated by collectors who’ve seen (and owned) all of it and are searching for extra intricate qualities that aren’t essentially overtly expressed.
Fast Info Seiko Presage SNR037J1/SNR039J1
Case: 40 x 13.1 mm, chrome steel
Dial: white or black enamel
Motion: Spring Drive Seiko Caliber 5R65, energy reserve 72 hours
Features: hours, minutes, seconds; date, energy reserve indication
Worth: €4,650
Whether or not the Presage assortment is tempting sufficient to seasoned collectors stays, as all the time, a private selection, however Seiko is taking part in its playing cards good. With the Presage assortment, the model has closed the hole between its entry-level assortment and the Grand Seiko.
The ace within the gap is that Seiko does so by channeling its strengths, and that’s profoundly Japanese.
For extra data, please go to www.seikowatches.com/global-en/merchandise/presage.
*This text was first revealed on November 30, 2020 at Seiko Presage: A 2020 Overview With Some New Watches.
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