Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023 not too long ago ended, making it the second profitable iteration of the still-new Watches & Wonders Geneva timepiece tradeshow occasion that began in 2022. Participant manufacturers included many of the conventional SIHH manufacturers, in addition to lots of the extra necessary manufacturers from Baselworld. The aBlogtoWatch workforce met with almost 50 exhibiting manufacturers and obtained a first-hand have a look at lots of the new watches being launched in 2023. Whereas many releases we noticed stay below embargo, the aBlogtoWatch workforce has chosen its favorites among the many newly debuted timepieces, and we expect they characterize an ideal image of the present state of watches and the business as a complete.
Earlier than we get into it, a fast observe on general product tendencies. Like 2022 earlier than it, 2023 is shaping as much as be a really cautious 12 months for manufacturers, that means that investments in issues like analysis and growth, in addition to completely new mannequin households, are restricted in comparison with historic averages. Which means some manufacturers solely launched one watch publicly whereas others clearly targeted on small batch manufacturing of extraordinarily costly watches meant for elite shoppers versus these designed to forged a wider web and garner the curiosity of a extra mainstream luxurious shopper. In essence, manufacturers are taking part in it secure promoting to present high-net-worth shoppers and specializing in product formulation that work, versus experimenting with new shapes and ideas within the pursuit of discovering and creating new trendy classics.
What manufacturers are nonetheless closely targeted on is reviving older designs and revising the previous for immediately. This has been an ongoing development within the business and, in 2023, we proceed to see how trendy watches are straight or partially impressed by older ideas and aesthetics. This continues to really feel like a secure guess for an business that isn’t as affected person because it was up to now with regards to its new merchandise taking just a few years to search out their clients; short-term considering nonetheless pervades the watch product growth cycle on the majority of even main watchmakers. Which means they’re hoping to make merchandise that the market already desires, versus inventing the look of the long run. Whereas the predominant crowd-pleasing designs might not stand the take a look at of time, there are lots of nice watches being launched which might be stylish and impressed whereas searching for to supply a extra common carrying expertise geared towards immediately’s extra informal, sporty life. Let’s check out what the aBlogtoWatch workforce thinks are the highest 10 timepieces from Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023.
Zenith Pilot Assortment
After years of leaving its Pilot assortment in obvious limbo, Zenith revitalized the road with an entire redesign, bursting out of the gate with 4 fashions. It was precisely the sort of factor we at all times hope for when masking new items, particularly these launched at large exhibits. These watches deliver a contemporary look to a group that had languished within the Classic-inspired Doldrums, combining basic pilot watch parts with contemporary design and up to date proportions. The chronograph stood out for us, with a triple-patented large date and a mannequin throwing it again to one among Zenith’s basic ’90s designs. Each Pilot fashions can be found in chrome steel or black ceramic, with The Zenith Pilot Huge Date Flyback priced respectively at $11,500 USD and $13,500 USD, and the Zenith Pilot Computerized priced respectively at $7,500 USD and $9,600 USD. Learn the aBlogtoWatch protection of the Zenith Pilot assortment launch right here.
For 2023, Rolex has ended manufacturing of its Cellini costume watch household with the intention to make means for the brand new 1908. That is the model’s solely non-Oyster piece, permitting for a thinner case profile and extra elegant proportions. The 39mm-wide circumstances start with availability in 18k yellow or white-gold circumstances, paired with both an opaline or black face and a dial impressed by among the first Rolex wristwatches ever. When Rolex comes out with a brand new dial or assortment, it’s actually a trigger for celebration. Extra necessary for timepiece followers is Rolex’s determination to outfit 1908 watches with a brand new in-house motion that for the primary time features a silicon steadiness wheel—a high-performing part beforehand solely utilized in a small variety of ladies’s watches at Rolex. The Rolex 1908 is priced at $22,000 USD in yellow gold and $23,300 USD in white gold. Learn the total aBlogtoWatch hands-on with the Rolex 1908 right here.
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph
For Watches and Wonders 2023, A. Lange & Söhne launched only one mannequin. 4 years after it wowed the world with its first metal sports activities watch, it lastly expanded the Odysseus line with the Odysseus Chronograph. Unsurprisingly, they went large: the watch makes use of central fingers for each chronograph seconds and minutes and has an extremely novel zero-reset mechanism positive to maintain homeowners taking part in with it continuous. With its new motion and a colorway solely seen in a single different Lange, this 100-piece chrome steel mannequin plots a promising trajectory for the Odysseus assortment. A. Lange & Söhne was unable to offer pricing info forward of press time. Learn the aBlogtoWatch protection of the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph right here.
TAG Heuer Carrera “Glassbox” Chronographs
For a few years, TAG Heuer has cut up its trademark Carrera collection between the up to date TAG Heuer-branded modernist aspect of the road and overt homages to classic fashions below the legacy Heuer nameplate. Few if any fashions aimed to bridge the hole between these two sides of the lineage, till this 12 months’s launch of the TAG Heuer Carrera “Glassbox” household. Because the collection celebrates its sixtieth anniversary, TAG Heuer has introduced the “Glassbox” sub-line, mixing the smaller proportions and clear case design of the vintage-inspired fashions with a dramatic, futuristic bezel-less domed sapphire crystal that provides the famously angular collection a extra rounded, spacious character. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm fashions are priced at $6,450 USD, whereas the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon 42mm is priced at $21,000 USD. Learn the total aBlogtoWatch hands-on with the TAG Heuer Carrera “Glassbox” Chronographs right here.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
This 12 months for Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre determined to concentrate on its iconic Reverso assortment, and the standout among the many handful of recent releases was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph. One aspect gives a clear and basic time-only show within the spirit of the unique Reverso watch from 1931, whereas the opposite aspect is a completely trendy up to date chronograph with a skeletonized show and a retrograde minutes counter. Whereas JLC steadily creates dual-sided Reverso watches, seldom do the 2 sides provide such totally different prospects, making this probably the greatest new releases unveiled not simply by JLC, however on the complete present. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph is priced at $21,400 USD in metal and $37,400 USD in pink gold. Learn the aBlogtoWatch protection of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph launch right here.
IWC Ingenieur Computerized 40
During the last 5 or so years, IWC has been diligently engaged on making a brand new model of the Ingenieur that not solely faithfully remembers the Gerald Genta-designed mannequin from the Seventies, however that truly leads to a far better-looking watch than the unique. This difficult design train was because of IWC’s management and the model’s present concentrate on design and aesthetics. The Ingenieur Computerized 40 isn’t a cheap watch, however it is extremely properly executed and manages to be an attention-grabbing have a look at the model’s personal historical past in addition to being decidedly on-trend. The metal variations are wonderful, however the titanium mannequin was the true standout. The IWC Ingenieur Computerized 40 watches are priced beginning at $14,600 USD. Learn the total aBlogtoWatch hands-on with the IWC Ingenieur Computerized 40 watches right here.
Parmigiani TONDA PF Minute Rattrapante
This 12 months, Parmigiani Fleurier has as soon as once more wowed with the TONDA PF Minute Rattrapante. Because it did with final 12 months’s stand-out TONDA PF GMT Rattrapante, Parimigiani has rethought the core mechanics of the push-button-operated, split-seconds motion. Within the Minute Rattrapante, a secondary minute hand (hid behind the first minute hand) could be independently set to a delegated time, permitting the watch for use as a timer. Realistically talking, this can be a difficult answer to a reasonably easy activity, and this identical core performance may simply as simply be supplied by a rotating bezel. Nonetheless, the truth that this may be achieved completely by way of the motion is the true story right here, and it’s this kind of innovation that finally makes this business thrilling. The Parmigiani TONDA PF Minute Rattrapante is priced at $30,600 USD. Learn the aBlogtoWatch protection of the Parmigiani TONDA PF Minute Rattrapante launch right here.
Tudor Black Bay 54
Since its inaugural look in 2012, the Tudor Black Bay lineup has turn into more and more more true to its classic inspiration, and as a part of the newest batch of recent releases unveiled this 12 months on the present, Tudor has given us its most traditionally correct, vintage-inspired dive watch but. The brand new Tudor Black Bay 54 faithfully reinstates the unique 37mm case diameter of the very first Tudor diver from 1954, whereas concurrently incorporating quite a lot of different classic particulars in regard to its bezel insert, fingers, and winding crown. On condition that Tudor already supplied Black Bay dive watches with each 39mm and 41mm case diameters, few folks anticipated a 37mm mannequin to hitch the lineup this 12 months, but its thinner case, T-fit clasp, and classic Submariner particulars have made the Black Bay 54 one of many fan-favorite releases of this 12 months’s present. The Tudor Black Bay 54 is priced at $3,625 USD on rubber and $3,850 USD on the bracelet. Learn the total aBlogtoWatch hands-on with the Tudor Black Bay 54 right here.
Among the many most spectacular novelties unveiled this 12 months was the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Show Journey Time ref. 5224R-001, which gives an ultra-clean, elegant design because of its 24-hour format and a re-designed setting mechanism that eliminates the necessity for additional pushers or buttons on the aspect of the case. Crafted from 18k rose gold and fitted with a multi-textured blue dial, the brand new reference 5224R-001 additionally eliminates the necessity for a day/night time indicator, as its two independently adjustable hour fingers solely make one full rotation across the dial every day. Providing extremely sensible dual-time functionality whereas additionally retaining the entire refinement and magnificence that has at all times outlined the longstanding Calatrava assortment, the watch can also be powered by the brand new automated Caliber 31-260 PS FUS 24H. The Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Show Journey Time 5224R-001 is priced at $57,370 USD. Learn the total aBlogtoWatch hands-on with the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Show Journey Time right here.
Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001
Constructing on final 12 months’s Evolution 9 drop, Grand Seiko snuck this modest-looking chronograph in between bejeweled lion watches and hand-engraved platinum circumstances. However don’t let its easy design idiot you: the Grand Seiko Tentagraph options the model’s first-ever mechanical chronograph, and the 9SC5 motion encompasses a 5hz frequency and a 3-day energy reserve (even when the chronograph is working. Add to that rigorously examined -3/+5 accuracy and Grand Seiko’s profitable design (together with, after all, a textured dial), and also you’ve obtained a licensed winner. Oh, and did we point out it’s titanium? The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 is priced at $13,700 USD. Learn the aBlogtoWatch protection of the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 launch right here.
Try all of aBlogtoWatch’s protection of Watches and Wonders 2023, together with podcasts, reside video, hands-on articles, and tons of recent releases!