The Collector Collection – A Man & His Breitling Premier Cut up-Seconds

We’re again at present with a brand new instalment of our Collector’s Collection column, the place we go away the stage to an proprietor and his beloved watch. For a comparatively unknown purpose, Breitling has not often been seen within the collection, however we’re about to vary this… And with a fairly spectacular mannequin. As we speak, we’ll be speaking with Timerider27, as this 54yo watch collector is understood on Instagram. He’s a real Breitling fan. He thought it was time to clarify why his Breitling Duograph Premier Cut up-Seconds chronograph is his favorite one. And to ask folks to cease complaining a lot…

Frank Geelen, MONOCHROME – How did you personally get to know the model within the first place? 

Timerider27 – I began amassing in 2004. Studying numerous magazines and boards, the primary Breitling that caught my curiosity was a variation of the Transocean Unitime with no chronograph. I additionally preferred the ever-present Navitimer however thought I might by no means use the calculator bezel and I nonetheless maintain to that. I additionally get pleasure from 24-hour dials and Breitling makes a historic mannequin, the Cosmonaut. I acquired the Transocean Unitime chronograph just a few years in the past and luxuriate in it very a lot. It’s one of many best watches that permits the person to vary the timezone with out stopping the motion and it accounts for summer time/winter time (not like an enormous model that has a single pusher adjuster and cloisonné dial). My native approved seller carries Breitling and over the previous couple of years, a few of their watches have turn out to be actual eye-catchers.

What’s it you admire on this model generally?

Breitling has an extended historical past as do many different manufacturers. At the moment, they seem like referencing their founding as a pivot level. The latest tourbillion launch named after the founders was a stroke of genius. A evaluate of their web site exhibits they assist some nice causes and they’re working towards sustainability. One other latest video I watched stated Breitling was working in the direction of monitoring their supplies to the supply, an initiative first offered by Chopard, I consider. For my part, this is essential as I don’t need to be carrying a watch that probably was made utilizing labour that isn’t pretty paid or with folks that may very well be thought-about compelled labour (or no matter one desires to name it, i.e. slave labour).

We’re speaking about one particular mannequin. Why is the Breitling Duograph Premier Cut up-Seconds chronograph your favorite? 

At first, it’s a split-seconds chronograph, or rattrapante. There are few manufacturers that make this complication and for those who do, it’s onerous to beat this worth level. The truth is, I used to be within the AD lately and noticed the metal model with the blue dial – any watch connoisseur can be joyful to have it! I’m not a horologist, however from what I learn, aside from a chiming complication, the break up seconds complication stands out as the most tough complication for a watchmaker to construct, tougher than a perpetual calendar which is a collection of wheels and gears. This has to do with guaranteeing the 2 chronograph fingers circulate above one another. Or when utilizing the break up seconds, verifying the fingers snap again to their appropriate place when the right pusher is pressed. The purple gold case is gorgeous. The button within the crown to rattrapante the chrono fingers is silky clean when pushed. The deep black dial, gold Breguet numeral, and gold fingers are spectacular. The time is straightforward to learn. The field sapphire crystal is superb, however it distorts the tachymeter numbers. And I have to admit, I’m undecided how helpful a 30-minute split-seconds chrono is outdoors of an vehicle race (24 hours of Le Mans, Indianapolis 500) – and if I ever went to a type of races I wouldn’t put on this watch. The ALS Triple Cut up appears rather more applicable on this scenario. These are the one damaging feedback I’ve about this watch.

Since when has this mannequin been a watch you desired to own?

The Breitling Premier Duograph was by no means a watch I thought-about till I used to be proven it on the AD and mentioned it with my gross sales rep. Furthermore, the watches I want to own are extra probably those I’ll by no means possess. That is largely on account of their worth and exclusivity. Up to now, I might need bought from an internet gray seller or used from one of many boards. I don’t really feel comfy doing that anymore, so I follow ADs. After I journey I try to go to ADs within the space, however I’ve bought most of my latest watches from the AD in my native space. Simply an opinion piece, what folks purchase is many instances related to what’s out there to them – issues they’ll see. I do assume the watch market is saturated. Watches can final eternally, actually. So between new, not new (used), and public sale items, we now have lots of selections.

When did you purchase it and the place?

I made the ultimate buy the day earlier than my 54th birthday. Per week or two earlier than, my AD rep (who just isn’t there any longer, sadly – it’s at all times nice to work with somebody who is aware of your assortment) had proven me just a few particular items they’d in inventory. There are numerous metal watches, however the lustre of the purple gold on the Breitling, plus the split-seconds operate, made an impression on me. So I spoke to my spouse after which finalized the acquisition.

Your spouse has an essential say in what you purchase…?

I really feel it’s applicable to seek the advice of with my spouse earlier than spending this amount of cash on one merchandise. I’m certain she would give me the identical courtesy if she desired to purchase herself one thing at this value.

Does your watch get lots of wrist time?

My Breitling is worn at the very least 4 instances per week. I put on it to work and have it on my wrist as I drive to my tennis group on Saturday morning. It has a crocodile leather-based strap. It would look elaborate to others, however I are likely to put on what I put on on any event. The one time I gained’t put on it’s when I’m going to an enormous public occasion the place safety is lite and there’s a potential for unhealthy guys to be lurking round. 

Do you ever get reactions when you put on or present the watch?

I wore it lately throughout an advocacy occasion at our state’s capital. The watch is my contacts icon. After I despatched my contacts to a brand new good friend, they stated “showcase”. I discovered that humorous however exhibiting off just isn’t my intent. I benefit from the piece for what it’s, what it’s manufactured from, its features, and its legibility, and I very a lot get pleasure from winding it each morning – it’s a manually wound watch. Others have complimented me both on-line or in particular person. One joke: a TSA worker gave me a pleasant praise as I went by way of the doorway to the screening space. He stated he was a watch man. I’m not so certain, however I’m not one to guage.

Are you aware the present market worth of the watch? Do you care to inform us what you paid for it and when you would ever promote it?

I have no idea the present market worth. I paid the USD retail worth plus tax.

What are you wishing for subsequent?

I might love to go to the Breitling manufacture. A few years in the past, I used to be in New York Metropolis and went to the Breitling boutique. I used to be carrying my Arnold & Son TBR. I took it off to strive on a Breitling. By the mirror, I noticed an Arnold & Son designer stroll behind me taking a look at my A&S. Later that night I discovered him on the watch present. Supposedly he’s an enormous chronograph lover. I consider he at the moment works for Sellita. My apologies for not remembering his identify (editor’s observe: Sebastien Chaulmontet).

How would you describe your watch assortment thus far?

Various, difficult and messy. There isn’t a rhyme or purpose to my assortment. I purchase what I like after I see it. Many instances I believe I might purchase one look ahead to the price of 3 to five lesser-priced watches. However what can be the enjoyable in that?

Are there any extra watches you want to purchase? 

I wouldn’t thoughts carrying the Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega. I consider it is without doubt one of the most intricate watches at the moment made. The FM Loopy Hours is nice additionally. I’ve truly been within the Waco retailer within the Ginza (Tokyo, Japan – it’s a spot any watch lover ought to go to) and have seen the Loopy Hours in motion. It’s enjoyable and thrilling. Extra all the way down to earth, any model of the Breguet la Custom can be a house run. I might be proud of a Rolex Day Date additionally – and let me say, the Rolex haters can have their opinion, however I believe Rolex is a superb group. They do lots of good for the worldwide group. And who wouldn’t need a enterprise the place you promote your whole product and might’t meet demand. However that isn’t the purpose. Hans Wilsdorf constructed an organization to make the world higher. They do this by way of sponsorship, ambassadors, grants, analysis, and a bunch of different initiatives. Many watch corporations take part within the work to enhance the worldwide group. Rolex advertises its portion the perfect and probably has the perfect return on funding. That’s what Rolex is all about and I’m joyful to have the ability to assist them. 

Which manufacturers do you assume are doing attention-grabbing work on the market?

Max Busser & Associates (MB&F), Armin Strom, IWC and Arnold & Son come to thoughts. The MB&F LM Sequential Evo is unimaginable – understandably why it gained the Aiguille d’Or. Armin Strom has some spectacular resonance expertise. IMO, IWC doesn’t get sufficient credit score for his or her perpetual calendar watches. I’ve owned two Portuguese Perpetuals (at the moment personal one) – if it retains operating there isn’t any changes required till the 12 months 2100 (however don’t attempt to set it backwards). And Arnold & Son with their wonderful moon part watches. A&S had some glorious different problems, particularly useless seconds, prior to now which can be out there used. I believe they’re incredible. Breguet is one other model that seems to have lots of innovation however they don’t appear to make an enormous deal of it – I might get pleasure from studying extra about them.

Do you might have any tricks to different collectors who need the watch you possess?

Discover an AD, strive it on, and do you might have a primary good impression? If sure, take it residence. It doesn’t matter if it’s your first watch or your 30^th. It’s a particular piece that any proprietor would get pleasure from. Anybody can work out the way to use it. It’s not like one has to have expertise within the watch group to personal a split-seconds chronograph.

Do you might have normal ideas for individuals who need to begin amassing watches?

Not likely, I began by buying a Rolex, adopted by studying on-line boards after which subscribing to a extremely popular watch journal. It began in 2004 and by 2007 I had the watch amassing bug for which there isn’t any treatment but. Folks should purchase what they like. When folks begin, they most likely don’t know if they need a date, a chronograph, lume, or no matter. These items should not realized till one is deep within the passion. I like to recommend shopping for the primary watch that you simply like, then get educated by way of boards and magazines, after which purchase your second ‘educated’ watch. Personally, I’m making an attempt to carry off any purchases till I can get to New York Metropolis the place there are various extra ADs and selections.

Have any good relationships developed with different collectors?

Nicely, I observe our mutual good friend winewhiskeywatches on Instagram. I discover the boards a bit boring with the day by day “what are you carrying” and lack of any substantial commenting. I loved TimeZone at one level, however I used to be kicked off for an unknown purpose. Despatched two emails to the moderators, however acquired no replies. I didn’t like the way it was being managed anyway. I did be a part of the GS9 membership. It appears there are various critics who need to complain about excessive costs, poor design, lack of availability, or anything. To all of those folks, I might say Cease Complaining. There are such a lot of selections – discover the one you want. Everybody has an opinion, however that and a few {dollars} get you a cup of espresso – it isn’t price something. Take pleasure in life, get pleasure from what you might have, and luxuriate in watchmaking which is actually the historical past of mankind.