The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB3 SPC (incl. video)

When resurrecting the Ferdinand Berthoud identify, an eminent 18th-century horologist, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and his crew have proven fairly a expertise to shock and amaze us. First with the Chronomètre FB1, which was awarded the coveted Aiguille d’Or on the GPHG 2016, the Oscars of watchmaking. After which, with the no much less spectacular, Chronomètre FB2, which was awarded the Chronometry prize at GPHG 2019. For 2022, the model begins writing its third chapter with the FB3, Atelier Berthoud which retains the elemental themes for the model, particularly the concentrate on chronometry, on exclusivity and distinctive craftsmanship. However the FB3 is completely different in lots of respects and it pays tribute to new elements of the model’s custom.

The Chronomètre FB3 SPC is the reply to the will from Berthoud lovers to have the ability to put on a barely smaller timepiece and to have a (comparatively talking) extra inexpensive piece. The mannequin retains the elemental themes for the model, particularly chronometry, this time with a concentrate on the stability spring. Its calibre is paced by a cylindrical hairspring which was impressed by a Louis Berthoud (Ferdinand Berthoud’s nephew) pocket watch with decimal time indication, the No. 26 decimal watch.

Cylindrical hairsprings provide the benefit of growing concentrically and completely on the axis of their pivots. Nonetheless, these are terribly tough to craft and require extra space in comparison with an everyday stability spring. Months of testing have been required to outline the variety of coils and the geometry of the terminal curve on the attachment factors in an effort to optimize charge precision in relation to a brand new variable inertia stability geared up with 4 high quality adjustment screws and 12 load screws.

The event of this oscillator has required 2 years of labor. Its manufacturing and meeting aren’t any much less demanding. The spring’s terminal curves are formed by hand utilizing a profile projector. The motion adjustment then requires a number of days of labor. All of this to make sure chronometric precision (licensed by the COSC). As well as, a stop-second mechanism ensures exact setting operations.

This hypnotic oscillator ticks on the coronary heart of a brand new calibre, the Calibre FB-SPC (SPC stands for SPiral Cylindrique or Cylindrical Hairspring in French). This excellent motion stands out with its graphic, three-dimensional structure. In an unique method, the motion is constructed with the principle plate on the centre with bridges on either side.

On the dial aspect, an array of six bridges traces a gorgeous format. In contrast to the earlier Berthoud calibres, it now not incorporates a fusée-and-chain mechanism (which requires fairly some area). At 12 o’clock, held beneath an arched bridge, the big barrel (with a slip-spring to keep away from overwinding and damaging the mainspring) delivers 72 hours of energy reserve. The indication of time is pared all the way down to the minimal: a peripheral inside bezel ring for the hours and minutes. The massive small second indication creates a symmetrical counterpoint to the barrel. At 2 o’clock, the power-reserve indicator is engraved in a sector graduated in 12-hour segments from “0” to “1”. The left-hand aspect is devoted to the regulator with the stability, anchor and escapement positioned in line every with a devoted bridge (additionally be aware the gorgeous heel-shaped bridge for the stability).

As you have got come to count on from Berthoud, the ornament is top-notch and entails over 100 hours of labor. The ending of every of the 230 motion elements is impeccable and checked with a x6.7 magnifier. The principle plate and bridges are made out of nickel silver. Their matt floor is achieved by handbook high quality sandblasting. Their chamfers are reduce and polished by hand earlier than being coated with a galvanic floor remedy contrasting with the gold color of the case.

The spherical 42.3 mm case is common out of white or pink moral gold. Its fashion is extra basic than the design of earlier Berthoud fashions. Nonetheless, it’s fitted with signature options comparable to the big crown permitting for simple operations and the porthole within the case center at 9 o’clock which gives a fascinating view of the beating cylindrical hairspring. The water resistance is rated 3 ATM / 30 meters.

The Ferdinand Berthoud FB3 SPC is offered on an alligator leather-based strap with a gold pin buckle matching the color of the case. The Ferdinand Berthoud FB3 SPC radiates timeless magnificence. With it, Ferdinand Berthoud has created an outstanding watchmaking basic, while retaining the model’s distinctive fashion. It’s a excellent instance of uncompromising craftsmanship, reflecting the ethics of the corporate and its fastidiously thought-out method. The manufacturing is of course restricted by the capacities of the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud workshop in Fleurier to a most of 25 timepieces per yr.

At CHF 140.000, the Ferdinand Berthoud FB3 SPC is definitely not for each pocket however it’s a watch that may be worn in confidence in entrance of probably the most rarefied gatherings of watch snobs.

For extra data, please go to FerdinandBerthoud.ch.