As we acknowledged in our in-depth article, the Tangente has been instrumental within the success of German watchmaker Nomos. Impressed by the Bauhaus period and recognisable to all, the Tangente is an emblematic mannequin that has existed in a number of types. Small and hand-wound, as the unique idea was, but additionally bigger and computerized, or vibrant and complex. At the moment, this emblematic watch is again in a brand new, luxurious color with the model’s in-house computerized calibre, the DUW 3001. Listed here are the brand new Tangente Neomatik Blue Gold Fashions, and we now have them reviewed in an in-depth video that additionally retraces the historical past of this mannequin.
Earlier than we discover these two new references, a fast historic reminder felt crucial… As shocking as it’s, we by no means actually coated the historical past of Nomos and its most essential watch, the Tangente. Drawback solved, both by watching the video posted above, the place I retrace the previous and current of the mannequin or by studying this text. And to make it very quick, the Tangente was one of many 4 watches launched by the model when it was based in 1992, and it hasn’t modified ever since. Its flat case, angled lugs and minimalist typography are all a tribute to Bauhaus, an essential faculty of design that has been one of the vital influential currents in fashionable design and structure, but additionally in watchmaking. Modelled after Nineteen Thirties watches, the Tangente has barely modified since its presentation. The authentic hand-wound 35mm mannequin continues to be accessible from the model, solely with an in-house motion changing the ETA calibres of earlier watches.
In fact, constructing a model with just one mannequin within the portfolio wouldn’t be simple. And for that, Nomos has created variations across the Tangente idea for years. At the moment, this assortment has near 30 references to select from, protecting all wants, from compact female variations with warm-coloured dials to extra complicated editions with energy reserve and date or peripheral date shows, and even an outsized sports activities model. And colors are additionally acquainted to the Tangente.
Following final 12 months’s Tangente Neomatik Platinum Grey 35 and 39, the model returns with a brand new duo of watches that play on the identical feelings, but in a barely bolder color, the Tangente Neomatik Blue Gold fashions. In comparison with the Platinum Grey variations aforementioned, not a lot has modified apart from the dial color. And whereas blue has already been used within the assortment, these new variations introduce a brand new tone for the model. Extra luxurious, deeper, and extra textured.
Dubbed “Blue Gold”, these new Tangentes include a wealthy dial that requires a number of manufacturing steps. First, the brass clean is embossed with a snailed small seconds counter and is given a sunray-brushed texture. Second, and that is the place the color stands aside, the dial is gold plated, providing a wealthy, heat base earlier than the blue color is utilized by a galvanisation course of. Rhodium-plated arms and silver-coloured numerals and markers present refined chilly accents; solely the neomatik letters are rendered in gold for a discreet contact of color. Moreover that, the basic Tangente look, with linear typography and distinctive fonts, continues to be current.
The Tangente Neomatik Blue Gold is offered within the two basic diameters of the gathering, 35mm and 38.5mm. Each are skinny watches with a top of about 7mm. The flat, coin-shaped metal case is totally polished and has a relatively commanding design and presence on the wrist because of the immense dial opening and elongated lugs – one thing to contemplate with these watches; the 35mm is in no way a small watch. Being on the dressy facet, the water-resistance is sort of restricted, with 30m for the smaller version and 50m for the bigger watch. Each are geared up with sapphire casebacks, regardless that a strong again will be ordered, too. I’m unsure why you’d wish to conceal the motion, however a strong caseback represents a saving of EUR 300 on the ultimate worth.
One of many essential components of those new Tangente Blue Gold fashions is the motion, the skinny, in-house produced calibre DUW 3001, also referred to as Neomatik. Geared up with a bidirectional rotor, it’s a fashionable and properly executed engine that shops as much as 43 hours of energy reserve and beats at 3Hz. It options an in-house hairspring, the Swing system, a stop-seconds and is adjusted in 6 positions. The ornament is typical of the area, with skinny Glashutte ribbing, blued screws and gold-filled lettering.
Worn on a black Horween real shell cordovan strap, each editions of the Nomos Tangente Neomatik Blue Gold are actually accessible and type a part of the everlasting assortment. Costs will probably be (with sapphire again) EUR 2,940 for the 35mm model or EUR 3,080 for the 38.5mm mannequin.
For extra particulars, please go to nomos-glashuette.com.